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Looking for an aid-centric non-alpine bigwall movie that shows how it feels to be up there...

Original Post
Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043

My friend was asking about a movie that best shows what it's like up there. Not a mutant affair like Dawn Wall, or bigwalls where it's primarily freeclimbing, or alpine ascents that end up being primarily about dealing with ice and snow or underneath a fly while it snows for weeks at a time (ideally as little under the fly time as possible unless it's during a raging storm as my friend is like, "I know what it's like to hang out inside a tent), but a movie about aid climbing slowly and boringly up the wall and where 90% of the film is just the belayer falling asleep while not holding the break strand and the leader is irrationally crying because they're sure that the C1/A1 piece they're on is going to blow and they'll fall to their death. 

I'm of the mind that there's no movie that does it justice because that movie would be impossibly boring to watch for 99.9% of the demo (that demo being already like 5% of the total population)

The best I can think of is:

  • Assault on El Cap - Great film but too much focus on the history and the controversy and not really enough of the in-the-act footage for what my friend wants
  • Psychovertical - I feel like this is the best bet but I haven't watched it yet (the shame I feel about this is real) and i don't know how much is wall life and how much is the normal Andy musings about being caught between social expectations and the drive to climb. Anyone seen it and can comment?
Dave Alie · · Golden, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 75

Maybe a supercut of the leader low key cursing every time they pinch their knuckles behind the ladders while the credits roll. I'd contribute to this kickstarter!

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

The Original- “Sentinel, The West Face”

RR and Yvonne nailing most of it, some easy free climbing and a hanging hammock bivi.

Filmed in 63 so it’s dated but it is an excellently filmed work.


Brandon Adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 4,069

https://youtu.be/yoPqVReKx60

I thought this was neat

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043
Brandon Adamswrote:

https://youtu.be/yoPqVReKx60

I thought this was neat

That was awesome! thanks!

Eric Berghorn · · Calistoga,CA · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 968


Robert Rowsam · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 230

This one has some good moments. Conrad brings an everyman up el cap and it has shots of him very slowly leading, getting off route, passing up leads, etc. 


Nothing beats some of the shots of Andy hauling though. redbull.com/id-id/episodes/…

Eric Berghorn · · Calistoga,CA · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 968


Mydans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70
Brandon Adamswrote:

https://youtu.be/yoPqVReKx60

I thought this was neat

That was excellent Brandon thanks for sharing! I did Mecalito a few years ago and it was cool to see some of those pitches again.

Sean Anderson · · blue bins from target · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 30

Not much really up close footage but an interesting watch of Tomaž Humar's solo of the Reticent wall mntnfilm.com/en/film/retice…

Brandon Adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 4,069

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaSGbSTAky0

I just stumbled on this rad lady's videos. I appreciate her joyful, adventurous, and tinkery approach to climbing.

And this one. Lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUmDTjzcjoY

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043
Brandon Adamswrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaSGbSTAky0

I just stumbled on this rad lady's videos. I appreciate her joyful, adventurous, and tinkery approach to climbing.

And this one. Lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUmDTjzcjoY

Lol she is one of my favorite insta accounts. She's been trying to convince me to come out to Spain to try out some of her routes. 

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

i remember watching an old yosemite climbing film, and iirc at the beginning there was a bird (swallow) flying in and out of a hole on the wall.  anybody know what film that was? not sure why, but the bird scene made an impression on me.

Rprops · · Nevada · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 2,423

El Capitan. Padula. Minute 12. It's on youtube. I also remembered the birds.

https://youtu.be/TcWg9Y9oLY4?t=722

Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 2,769

I think this one does a good job of showing that Kevin.  I think they spent like 5 or 6 days on RNWF Half Dome.   youtube.com/watch?v=iArON_a…

Brian R · · San Luis Obispo, CA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 1

Kevin - check this one out, I think it’s pretty good and unique too as it’s shot in Australia.  He talks about his rope solo system using a Gri gri as well (his is modded exactly the same way my old circa 1999 Grigri was modded - it was cool to hear that Petzl approved of the mods, I need to get my current one done up this way)


https://youtu.be/pUVXwTyVCH


(Edited for spelling)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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