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New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #14
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My nephew is going to Prescott College in Arizona. He is totally into rock climbing while at school. He came back home for Christmas break and did take a Covid test before coming to see Jean and I. Yesterday we took him out since he wanted to climb with us. It was a high of 34 degrees but was sunny out and not too much wind. Since he is 21 years young, he is very strong, tall, skinny and full of energy. He wanted to try a climb that he could not do the last time he was out with us called the Phone Booth which is a 5.10 overhanging climb. He is used to climbing on granite and sandstone not the slippery rock that we climb on. He did try it a couple of times but could not make it. When you fall you will take a swing out. Jean took a video of me climbing most of it. My hands were very cold and I did not finish the very last part of the climb. First video is why you do not solo in the cold with mud on your climbing shoes. I did save my glasses as they were also falling off of me. I am also glad that Zach was paying attention. He did save my ass. 2nd try Here is Jean half way up Phone Booth  Jean finishing Phone Booth. She is better climber than I am.  John |
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I live in Prescott so tell him to contact me if he wants to get out |
Jarrod Webbwrote: Jarrod I PM you with Zach's info. I did contact him and he would like to climb with you. Thanks John |
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Does this clarify things?  |
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I had a gratifying experience yesterday. I took a 'brain health' assessment consisting of about 2 hours of testing various aspects of cognitive function, and my results surprisingly were at the far right of the bell curve and 'above expected' in all but one of the categories. I attribute this fully to climbing. I'm wondering what ya'll think -- if it is your experience that climbing does a lot more than just work out the body. The thing is, I've been taking this same assessment now for nearly a decade. It's an AARP offering called "Staying Sharp" which anyone can access at any time (I'm not an AARP member). stayingsharp.aarp.org/asses… The categories tested are: Working Memory, Processing Speed, Cognitive Flexibility, Sustained Attention, Recognition Memory, Non-Verbal Reasoning, Verbal Reasoning. Test scores measure how your brain performs relative to others your same age. The cognitive scores are merged with lifestyle scores to give you a total picture of brain function. The lifestyle categories are: Engaging Your Brain, Managing Stress, Being Social, Ongoing Exercise, Eating Right, and Restorative Sleep. If you take these assessments year after year you will see your scores on a graph with recommendations for each of the areas in which you could improve. What really surprised me was that my scores today are 50% better than what they were 5 years ago. I do remember taking part of one test at the end of a long workday, in the midst of a personal crisis, sad and wiped out. I couldn't recall a string of words. I couldn't match numbers. I was just maxed out. ------------------- Some thousands of posts ago I mentioned the book Younger Next Year... written by a doctor and a lawyer with all the updated info at that time. It changed my life. Some of the recommendations were around engaging in hard exercise, both cardio and strength training, 6 days a week (alternating cardio and strength days). It talked about maintaining physical balance to prevent falls, reflexes, diet. And social engagement, which at that time was lacking for me. And the book mentioned that it would really help if you actually like the exercise you are doing every day. I cannot think of an activity that covers all of those brain and body health requirements better than climbing. It stretches every part of our abilities, imo. What we do on the rock almost exactly matches the tests on Staying Sharp: thinking fast on your feet (processing speed), thinking outside the box (cognitive flexibility), focus (Sustained Attention), remembering sequences (Recognition Memory). And of course, total cardio and strength fitness. Climbing just happens to check off all the boxes. The most gratifying part of these tests for me was to see how much making positive changes in my life actually changed my brain health. Moving to this glorious place, connecting with people, being in love, laughter, having exercise available right out my front door. I don't think I saw it all until I saw the changes in that testing. Sample page:  |
Carl Schneiderwrote: I dunno. How do we know these aren't paid prop doubles? I don't think this flies. |
Lori Milaswrote: That sounds interesting! Thanks for the link. I am an AARP member - I get my Medicare supplemental from United Health through them. I have to admit I never use the website for anything, so I never noticed this program. I'll report back at some point... |
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I just got home. A poem was born from my home-coming. Off tomorrow for one night's camping by the beach with the daughter and grand kids... I am a Pest Why the frown upon your brow? What's the reason for your scowl? Is it I that you detest? Am I far from, what you would call, the best? Am I not as you would desire? Your sons to me should not aspire. Am I not your soul's rest? Not quiet companionship? Not peace? I am a pest. |
Carl Schneiderwrote: Wish we could do some marriage counseling, Carl... who knows what emotions and disappointments happen between two people. I hope you put this poem on her nightstand. I hope she can see your heart. You seem to always work it through... |
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Has anyone worked up their New Years Resolutions... or 2021 goals--and if so, would you care to share? I love the opportunity... Jan 1 a great time to meditate on hopes and dreams for the next 365 days, and a great juncture to start again. I'm wrapping up some nagging medical stuff. Tony and I drove the 80 miles to the nearest Kaiser facility so I could have this thing on my nose biopsied, and get an eye exam. Really, the most pressing need is finding a solution to the glare that comes off the rocks when I'm climbing. I seriously think I'm burning my eyes. So, I'll be getting polarized, UV protected prescription sunglasses with a good magnification for the rock. But she also sent me home with the directions: "Avoid air conditioners, heat, wind, cold." Hmmm. Does anyone else need glasses when climbing, and if so, what have you found to manage glare and sun damage? -------------- Will be climbing today at Chimney Rock. With the shutdown, Hidden Valley is pretty empty so we can have those rocks all to ourselves without bothering anyone. One of my 2021 goals is just to become a more fun partner who is not a hazard to myself or others. Anywhere else this might be an easier task. The 'fun' part I can probably do. The 'hazard' part is going to take some more practice and learning. The technical part of rock climbing (ropes, gear, approaches, descents, belays) is quite complex... especially when injury or death is a consequence. So, taking it slow. I've had a couple low blood sugars in the past two weeks that were of big concern. I got through them safely, but it always reminds me... this is A LOT to ask others to put up with. And, can I with 100% certainty make sure that if I am off belay and cleaning an anchor 100 feet off the ground will remain safe and able to take care of myself? I did find a fun little crag close to my house (not in the Park) with some bolts on top of a short rock formation... where I can scramble, set up anchors, place gear, throw down ropes, etc to my heart's content and at a fairly safe distance from the ground. Tony likes to sit and watch and heckle.  |
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I just turned 60. My New Year's goals are to equal my top grades (sport and boudering) from my 50's. I'm on a keto diet and only drinking alcohol once per week, so I have lost weight and am hopeful! |
Lori Milaswrote: I would caution you about getting bifocals or progressive glasses for climbing. I nearly killed myself while scrambling on a ledge in Arches NP getting to the Elephant Butte route. I had my prescription glasses on while negotiating a a foot wide ramp, got almost to the top and looked through my reader side of the glasses and misplaced a foot, off the ramp. My pack nearly drug me off. My prescription glasses now reside in my truck for driving, that's about all I use them for. |
Dallas Rwrote: Dallas I may be the exemption to the rule but I have been using progressive glasses for over 20 years climbing and do not have any problems climbing with them. These glasses darken automatically but I always use fitover sunglasses on top of my normal glasses as they also help to block the light from the sides. They look funny but I do not care. I want to protect my eye sight. John |
Ward Smithwrote: The keto diet is great. I liked the way it changed my cognitive function... In regards to the glasses thing, Lori, I've been wearing contact lenses since I was 19. I can't read the biggest letter on the eye chart without them. I'd never even think about wearing sunglasses climbing. Generally I wear sunglasses climbing and if I want to look cool, never while doing any activity... In regards to the poem, thanks for your comments. She does love me but I'm an annoying person, I'm very juvenile and loud... |
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Cancer again Hi out there. Some of you know me, most don’t I assume but I’ve come down with cancer for the fourth time. Please stop by and let me know what you think. Frank |
frank minunniwrote: Well, that certainly sucks in a major way. I have to say, when I first started doing scientific research in the mid 70s, I was skeptical that science would be able to develop "cures" for cancer. I'm happy to say I have been astounded by the advances that have been made in treatments for a wide variety of cancer types. I wish you all the best. |
Carl Schneiderwrote: You're Aussie. What did she think she was going to get? |
frank minunniwrote: Oh dear how terrible. You're obviously a fighter though. |
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I'm off camping at a caravan park with my daughter and grandkids. We swapped hats for the photo...  |
frank minunniwrote: I replied on the other thread, but... Geez. I'm sorry, sir. Hang in there. You've battled before, and made it. The website is very nice! Thanks for doing this, to help others. Best, Helen |
