Trad Rack Research

Hey all,

I know there are a million trad rac threads built around different brands, comparisons, etc., so I'll try to keep this discussion specific and not go down that route.

My climbing partner and I are both working on building our trad racks and entering into trad climbing. In doing so, I'd like to compliment his rack (already started) as I begin building mine out...but I also want to build a nice rack for myself, obviously :)

He is committed to the BD route and will have Z4's 0 - .75, and ultralights .75 through #3 or #4 here pretty soon.

I'm looking at either building another BD rack, comparable, OR a Metolius Ultralight rack (1 - 8 at least). I considered Friends and Flexcams but BD's and Ultralights won out in my research (happy to be convinced otherwise). This goes back to the brand debate which has happened a lot on here.

Back on topic - assuming I'm choosing between BD and Metolious, there are some advantages and disadvantages to building the same rack, but I'm specially looking for advice based on experience. The Ultralight cams have a smaller range per cam, however they land in some ranges that the BD cams don't specifically meet. So when a double rack is required, I could see an advantage to having different racks if a specific cam just doesn't seem to fit just right. Obvious advantage to having the same rack is always know that green is green and blue is blue. No surprises. 

I don't see either of us fully building a double rack in the immediate future, so we would definitely be relying on our overlap for any routes requiring doubles, at least for a while. Clearly this will change over time, but as mentioned, just entering the trad climbing game.

Thanks in advance. Love this forum and have learned a ton here.

There was a thread on this a few weeks back in which the OP posted a nice comparison of cam ranges. Tried to search for it but no luck as don't remember the thread title.  Hopefully they will post up.

This is a really cam comparison tool that I was sent: https://cam-parison.com/

Is that the one you're thinking of?

Nice Tyler!

I LOVE my MasterCams and the offsets even more. However, they really need to supplemented with the bigger cams that BD or WildCountry offer. The 00-6 U Ultralights are a must. They fit in shallower cracks better than the BDs, especially in JTRee, where I live. For the price and the extendable slings, I go with WC over BD. They really hard about the same as far as sizing goes. So, if I could only have one rack, it'd be Metolious MasterCams: 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and Wild Country .75, 1, 2, 3, 4 BD #5, 6. DMM offset nuts! But, that is just my experience with using and placing multiple brands in JTree. I could be off base...

You've hit the nail on the head - a set of Mets will fit between the BD cams. That's a MAJOR advantage.

I upgraded my rack this spring from all single stem BD camalots to a 0.3-4 rack of BD C4s and metolius UL mastercams 00-8. I’m loving the coverage from scary small through 3.5.”

The different color schemes take a little getting used to, but it is worth the effort. I’d definitely recommend the combination. 

Pretty widely agreed on the forum the metolius shine up to red #4 or black #5.

I go to red and then .75 of dual axle on up.  

I'd like to compliment his rack

You could say things like: "nice rack!", "that's a big rack!", "you've got a great rack...for a dude".

greggryllswrote:

Pretty widely agreed on the forum the metolius shine up to red #4 or black #5.

I go to red and then .75 of dual axle on up.  

Agreed. From .5 or .75 up there's enough range and overlap that it doesn't matter if they're all C4s. C4s handle better in these bigger sizes, mastercams are too floppy.

For the small sizes it's good to have two different brands since they fit a little differently.

So Mastercam to .5 or .75 and C4s in the larger sizes.

The only change I'd consider is Totems instead of Mastercams (holding power vs. value/bulk/weight).

My recommendation is always: climb on other people's racks so that you know what you like and don't have to ask other people this question.

That said, Covid makes that a bit harder, and nobody follows that advice anyway, so...

Having two racks that overlap is an advantage. There's also an advantage with the UL Cams and the BD cams specifically, in that they have different camming angles so they can complement each other in aspects other than size--a flaring crack might take the UL cam better, while a more irregular crack might take the BD cam better.

That said, it really depends what kind of climbing you're doing and on what rock. For the kind of stuff I'm doing I value having a simpler rack, which is why I have two racks fo the same cams. I run into situations sometimes where having two different racks might be an advantage, but I think I more often run into situations where it's better to get in a 8/10 piece quickly and go, than to fiddle around trying to get in a 10/10 piece.

Another thumbs up for the Metolius mastercams. All my friends said I would hate the "no thumb loop' but I haven't even noticed. They're light and easy to place. I took a fall on my #0 Metolius and it didn't budge. They're also made in America and very affordable. 

Does your partner want to climb on a mixed rack if you combine for doubles?

If you’re just starting out, an identical double rack might help you guys be more efficient in leading in general when you’re still learning placement sizing. Mid climb as you’re getting pumped you’re not having to think about Metolius vs BD. When you get more experience, you’ll start understanding the nuances of the two brands better and make your own preferences.

Either brand will be fine. In the end, you’ll probably sell them and get totems haha. /s but not really. 

Wow, I really appreciate all of the feedback here, and the few jokes cracked along the way. As an avid forum guy, I find them to be totally hit or miss, but this one tends to be more hit than miss. I'll ponder all of this feedback before making the purchase.

Thanks all!

I am sure a full rack of anything will at least get you going on some climbs and from there you will definitely know what you want. Check your local gear shop and get a consignment rack. Just as good as shiny new and you won't be so SOL when you inevitably make your first mistake. Start small think big

Metolius purple through black, and then supplement with BD C4s (NOT ULTRALIGHTS) 1-3. The bigger Metolius cams are floppy and feel far inferior to the BD cams in those sizes.

Daniel Kaywrote:

Metolius purple through black, and then supplement with BD C4s (NOT ULTRALIGHTS) 1-3. The bigger Metolius cams are floppy and feel far inferior to the BD cams in those sizes.

This is my plan at this point. Seems to be the popular vote. Appreciate it!