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Flexor Tendon strain and crack

Original Post
Liz Neudeck · · Olmsted Falls, OH · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Anyone continue to crack climb with a ring finger flexor tendon strain? It seems to be alright in practice cracks in the gym, at least with hand cracks. Cupped hands to fists I would assume not. Interested specifically in some offwidth this weekend. Generally like to play on the cautious side, so if this has aggravated anyone's injury before I will probably postpone my desert trip :(

Christine Spang · · Oakland, CA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 321

One thing you can do to make sure you don't aggravate the strain is to tape your pinkie finger to your ring finger, as the flexor strain is activated by pulling with the pinkie in the downward position. It's annoying but better than making the strain worse. I imagine finger cracks might be bad, but offwidth probably totally fine. I have climbed with this injury before and my experience was that as long as I avoided moves that hurt, it did not interfere with the healing process.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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