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Rescue on NE Face of Tahquitz

x15x15 · · Use Ignore Button · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 280
Dave K wrote:

There used to be a sign.

Which sign? Which time? And which place?

John Penca · · North Little Rock · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0
Thomas Claibornewrote:

This is why I've wanted to set up shop before the climbers trail and ask for peoples' Tahquitz belay cards. 

What does that have to do with it?  Real climbers don't need no stinking belay cards.

This seems like leader error, not belayer error.

John Penca · · North Little Rock · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0
Yoda Jedi Knightwrote:

Please do. Last time I walked right past the trail to Lunch Rock. Didn't there used to be a sign?

Here's your sign:

Yoda Jedi Knight · · Sandpoint, ID · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0
John Pencawrote:

Here's your sign:

Lol thanks! Lucky for me, I just used common sense to find the trail. I didn't even have to get rescued!

John Penca · · North Little Rock · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

^^^  Didn't need to get rescued?  That's blasphemous.

James Robertson · · Idyllwild, Ca. · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
Dave K wrote:

There used to be a sign.

Wagner use to kick over the carns.  "If they can't find the rock they have no business on it".

J Verg · · Idyllwild, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 95
x15x15wrote:

Which sign? Which time? And which place?

There is only here and now

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
James Robertsonwrote:

Wagner use to kick over the carns.  "If they can't find the rock they have no business on it".

Tim (skinhead) Wagner?  What ever happened to him?

James Robertson · · Idyllwild, Ca. · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
Fat Dadwrote:

Tim (skinhead) Wagner?  What ever happened to him?

No Mark.

JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 17
John Pencawrote:

^^^  Didn't need to get rescued?  That's blasphemous.

If you don't need a rescue you're not really trying.

Justin Tomlinson · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 270

Well..., that happened. 

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

If you ask me, the name "El Whampo" seems just like one of those Batman sound-effect bubbles and means, "Helicopter Rescue coming!"

jt newgard · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 461

Late to the party here. Maybe I missed it but were any solutions to the predicament presented? How about if you put yourself back in your own shoes when you just started climbin? There's an interesting hypothetical. Be honest!

Edit: Just to add my own 2c, I'll agree with others this was an unfortunate instance where a rescue was needed. Some basic mistakes were made here, but the important thing is to go back to your local crag, practice the techniques, build back from the ground up and make better decisions next time.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
jt newgardwrote:

Late to the party here. Maybe I missed it but were any solutions to the predicament presented? How about if you put yourself back in your own shoes when you just started climbin? There's an interesting hypothetical. Be honest!

This is why I like to practice downclimbing. If the leader was really so run out above his last piece that he couldn't just take the risk of falling I wonder how he stayed there for hours waiting for the chopper to come? Did he literally run out of all gear? That part of Tahquitz has so many small trees, old pitons and random bolts that it's hard to imagine that he couldn't find something to anchor off, bring his buddy up and then rap off.

Always better to call for a rescue than die, IMO, so they did what they had to do. 

James Frost · · Prescott, AZ · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 684
Andrew Ricewrote: Always better to call for a rescue than die, IMO, so the did what they had to do. 

Ha.

James Robertson · · Idyllwild, Ca. · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
jt newgardwrote:

Late to the party here. Maybe I missed it but were any solutions to the predicament presented? How about if you put yourself back in your own shoes when you just started climbin? There's an interesting hypothetical. Be honest!

Edit: Just to add my own 2c, I'll agree with others this was an unfortunate instance where a rescue was needed. Some basic mistakes were made here, but the important thing is to go back to your local crag, practice the techniques, build back from the ground up and make better decisions next time.

No, I would have got myself out of it.  I have back off Tahquitz before and not had to call for a rescue.  I have waited out a cold nights and not called for a rescue.  I spent a lot of time reading book and videos on climbing and self rescue BEFORE I attempted multi-pitch climbs.  I spent time at Stoney Point before trying a multi-pitch climb.  Don't climb something you can't get down from even if you have to lose some gear doing it.

David N · · Los angeles · Joined May 2017 · Points: 5



Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,815
James Robertsonwrote:

No, I would have got myself out of it.  ... Don't climb something you can't get down from even if you have to lose some gear doing it.

Yes - I have to agree.

Down climb, slide-fall, whatever until you can lower off a piece, back cleaning as much as you can and seems safe as you go.

If necessary, find a way to re-anchor, pull the rope, and continue being lowered to your belayer.

Once reunited with your partner, if it is within a rope length to the ground, fix one end of the rope and both single rope rap to the ground. Clean it all up another day if you get there before someone else .... which seems likely this time of year.

Apologies if something like this was already mentioned.  And I look forward to hearing any missing details.

Joshua Tree Runner · · Rancho Cucamonga, CA · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 245
Bill Lawrywrote:

Yes - I have to agree.

Down climb, slide-fall, whatever until you can lower off a piece, back cleaning as much as you can and seems safe as you go.

If necessary, find a way to re-anchor, pull the rope, and continue being lowered to your belayer.

Once reunited with your partner, if it is within a rope length to the ground, fix one end of the rope and both single rope rap to the ground. Clean it all up another day if you get there before someone else .... which seems likely this time of year.

Apologies if something like this was already mentioned.  And I look forward to hearing any missing details.

Agreed with the people that mentioned down climbing. I feel it’s an important alpine skill to practice at the local crag and to have in the toolbox. On more than one occasion I have leaned on it at Tahquitz. 

Live and learn hopefully...

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212

There's got to be more to the story. Ran out of gear and the guy stood there until the rescue showed up? Doesn't even seem real.

Although I have run into a few parties up there that couldn't find their way out of a wet paper bag, so you never know.

Godspeed.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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