New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #14

Lori.... Mike Waugh is one of “the sick midgets” the other is Jan. They both stand about 5’ 4”... they come from a gymnastics background with climbing skilz learned at Stoney. Mike is probably the strongest climber to ever live- seriously- he was doing one arms way before any of us ever even tried. He maintains his fitness today as best he can. As a LAFD he was able to get stronger and better at work. He is now retired and splits his time between Mammoth and Newhall. A Mike story.... he has spent 30-50 days each summer camping at The Meadows. This was maybe 2006, I was up early, about 5am when Mike rolled his bike over to my table. I ask him where he’s going. “Mammoth for coffee” - and off he goes. I got stood up for climbing so I went to the “Kitty Boulders” to kill some time. These mornings are cold and I had to wait till others got up. So about 9:15 Mike is back! He said that the “service was slow” and wanted to know if I wished to go climbing. I’m always down to get top ropes. So when you do his climbs bring everything you got! You will need it.

OLH... sorry about Sox. It’s to bad we out live our furry friends. 

Thanks, all. In addition to Sox, covid has landed in my (very tiny) bubble. I get tested tonight. For now, it's just the merry celebration of Snotfest, for me, but I do worry about the others, who are all compromised in one way or another. I'm merely old. But, nonetheless, I am staying home, and medicating with simple carbs. 

H.

Guy, I'm sure that Mike was a strong mf, but Gill was doing one-finger one-arm pullups in the late '50's and both Fritz Wiessner and Hans Kraus told me they were doing one-arm pullups in their 20's.  The same is probably true of many of the great Dolomite climbers of the 30's and 40's, who were already climbing 5.10+ with minimal protection on long multipitch routes.  Not that Mike's level of strength wasn't impressive, but I don't think it was particularly extraordinary in the climbing world.

Oh gosh, Helen. Will you please keep us posted? Fingers crossed.

Today was just a high.  Blasted across the desert with loud Springsteen playing and blue sky everywhere, it couldn’t be a more beautiful day.  Climbing Chalk Up Another One this time with a sense of today and yesterday.  It’s an amazing route and hard to believe I climbed it today, great climbers did it years ago. Drove home really not wanting the party to end...

Old lady Hwrote:

Thanks, all. In addition to Sox, covid has landed in my (very tiny) bubble. I get tested tonight. For now, it's just the merry celebration of Snotfest, for me, but I do worry about the others, who are all compromised in one way or another. I'm merely old. But, nonetheless, I am staying home, and medicating with simple carbs. 

H.

Oh I hope you're OK. We've been impacted very little. Just a few months of no gyms, three days of total lock down the other week and very very few cases and very very few deaths. Only four deaths due to Covid in South Australia. So I can't really imagine how you're all coping over there with it so out of control... Hope the thanksgiving holiday you just had doesn't cause another spike. 

Carl Schneiderwrote:

Oh I hope you're OK. We've been impacted very little. Just a few months of no gyms, three days of total lock down the other week and very very few cases and very very few deaths. Only four deaths due to Covid in South Australia. So I can't really imagine how you're all coping over there with it so out of control... Hope the thanksgiving holiday you just had doesn't cause another spike. 

Carl, of course we're in another spike. And another one for Christmas. And another one for New Year's Eve. This is The Land of Personal Freedom. Only a vaccine can save us from ourselves. 

Blessings with you Helen. Contrary to the belief of many Covid is nothing to mess with. 

My wife, who spent her entire career in health care died last month from covid. A very healthy woman in her 50's gone.

To all here, please do everything you can to protect yourselves and others. And make the most of the life that is safe for all. No one likes lock downs, mandates, or really just being told what to do. But we all need to deal with it. United we Stand.

Many of us know someone who's business had closed due to this. While not right a business can be rebuilt. Can't bring a loved one back.

And you're right Guy. No-one gets out alive (although I have zero respect for that sentiment when you referred to the death of my wife with that). Honestly, that statement is traced back to a drug addled bufoon.

So Adams... again very sorry about your wife. Sometimes the written word (the Internet)is not the best way to express ourselves. So I’m not going to write anything more about the COVED.

Rgold- I’ll stand by my claim that Waugh is strongest- pound for pound- ever. One time I watched him one arm on his ice ax, then casually put his leg on top of it (so he was sitting) so he could reach the good ice above.
Mike not only one arms at the gym bar but he can do it on the stone, pulling all the way to his waist in one hydraulic effort on the smallest of edges. But anyway all I really wanted to convey to Lori was this- Those 3 guys all brought something special to the climbs they did. Power, Boldness and an eye for “the line”. I don’t think they ever put up a stinker. Her desire to do those climbs is quite a challenge for anyone. I wish her luck.

Out

All good Guy. It can be very hard to express on the internet. Which makes it important to think it through before typing it out.

Parachute Adams: Very sorry to hear about the loss of your wife.

On the Covid front, things just got more serious here in California. If ICU capacity dips below 15% available, the Govenor's new order will kick in two days later and last for three weeks, only rescinded if the projected capacity reverts back to above 15%. My fear is that the "3 weeks" could extend into 3 months.

The order allows for "outdoor recreation" but bans all campgrounds, hotels and lodging. Could be a tough winter for the guiding business here at Joshua Tree.

Parachute Adamswrote:

My wife, who spent her entire career in health care died last month from covid. A very healthy woman in her 50's gone.

I am so very sorry for your loss. Please take care of yourself. 

Parachute Adamswrote:

Blessings with you Helen. Contrary to the belief of many Covid is nothing to mess with. 

My wife, who spent her entire career in health care died last month from covid. A very healthy woman in her 50's gone.

To all here, please do everything you can to protect yourselves and others. And make the most of the life that is safe for all. No one likes lock downs, mandates, or really just being told what to do. But we all need to deal with it. United we Stand.

Many of us know someone who's business had closed due to this. While not right a business can be rebuilt. Can't bring a loved one back.

And you're right Guy. No-one gets out alive (although I have zero respect for that sentiment when you referred to the death of my wife with that). Honestly, that statement is traced back to a drug addled bufoon.

Oh my goodness how sad. I feel in hard times it's worth wearing one's heart on one's sleeve. Many will respect that and reach out with love and compassion. When my grandson got bone cancer at age 4 I decided to just be me and say what I like and express how I feel, and cry and not feel ashamed of crying. That decision (and that time) changed who I was. It's Bailey's 13th birthday today, we still feel that dark cloud hovering, but we've learnt to live each day. 

Today I went top roping and flashed a 21 and got half way up a 22 as well as some 16s, 17s, 18s etc. A nice day. 

Hope you're OK. ❤️

Everybody Have Your Own Religion

Everybody have your own religion

There's none of us the same

To think that our spirits are similar

Is just so fucking insane.

What I see and what I touch

Can not be seen or touched by you

To think then that our spirits agree

Is just a pile of poo.

Parachute Adamswrote:

Blessings with you Helen. Contrary to the belief of many Covid is nothing to mess with. 

My wife, who spent her entire career in health care died last month from covid. A very healthy woman in her 50's gone.

To all here, please do everything you can to protect yourselves and others. And make the most of the life that is safe for all. No one likes lock downs, mandates, or really just being told what to do. But we all need to deal with it. United we Stand.

Many of us know someone who's business had closed due to this. While not right a business can be rebuilt. Can't bring a loved one back.

And you're right Guy. No-one gets out alive (although I have zero respect for that sentiment when you referred to the death of my wife with that). Honestly, that statement is traced back to a drug addled bufoon.

Parachute... I thought about you last night, and the devastation of losing your wife. Everything is probably still so fresh for you.  But you did say "And make the most of the life that is safe for all..." and I hope you are able to do that.  I lost my son a few years back to a heroin overdose.  Right after that my mom and my best friend died.  I never had any doubt that I would see them again one day, but right now, I am acutely aware that every moment of this life is precious.  We are not here for long.  So it is with deep commitment to life that we carry on, eventually smile, laugh and keep on living.  

I was going to say that my son's death hurt most because of the way he died. I had a lot of rage towards those who contributed to it.  And that might apply here...when we are trying to stay alive through a pandemic and so many seem to flaunt the spread of this disease.   It's one thing if it couldn't have been prevented--it's another if you believe it could have been.  

Please let us know if there is anything we can do.  At least know that you have a community of friends who care. 

Thanks Parachute,

I am surrounded by many responsible and thoughtful people who, for reasons I do not understand, do not adhere to practices that are, to me, common sense.
My thoughts are with you

Tim

Guy... I'm feeling a little effusive this morning (ie. gushy and happy tears).  I wanted to thank you for all the times you have offered support here, and encouragement.  Thinking about Parachute this morning, and so many others--we've all sustained a lot of grief and hard times... climbing has been my way of rejoining life when it wasn't looking good for me (I'm sure Helen can relate, as can almost everyone here).  

So I put on my specially made "Dave's Not Here" red T-Shirt any time I attempt a Houser route... but yesterday I had a real sense of awe and grandeur on these rocks.  These climbs are hard work but so beautiful!  I just feel so damned honored.  So blessed.  And I am doubly-blessed to have found Bob, who has that right mix of stoke, encouragement and knowledge to coach me along.   This route has a crux that requires a specific sequence of moves to get through it... and I was having a hard time hitting it perfectly.  But I woke up this morning with it etched in my brain... plant right foot, right crimp, match hands, step right over left, lean over to grab far left hold, right hand up, left thumb over top of hold...  I could do it perfectly today.  

Thank you for the stories and the recollections... sounds like it's unanimous that Mike Waugh was incredibly strong. I didn't picture him as short.  The more interested I get in the history of this Park and of these routes, the more I wonder if it should become a book.  But I think the stories would have to be more than just about the superhuman climbers.  You all seem to have memories of the good times, the discovery, and the youth that went into this place.  Please keep sharing. 

I know we've talked about aging and retirement here.  This wasn't my idea of old age (ok, approaching old age).  My friends have finished up their lives. Done. How INSANE is it to be standing on this magnificent crag and launching off onto a 5.10a move right off the deck.  Just crazy.  That hourglass.... 

Apparently Tony sat in the HV parking lot and watched from a distance, and bragged on me to nearby campers.  I'm sure they appreciated that.    

I think I burned my eyeballs on that rock yesterday from the glare.  I also now have a new skin cancer--on my nose.  I'm not sure what to do about the rock glare... I do need some kind of readers to do well on slab.  Maybe prescription sunglasses?  

Mike is not short! 

Guy is tall! 

Mike is not muscular he is strong & there is a big difference.

Lori Milaswrote:

I think I burned my eyeballs on that rock yesterday from the glare.  I also now have a new skin cancer--on my nose.  I'm not sure what to do about the rock glare... I do need some kind of readers to do well on slab.  Maybe prescription sunglasses?  

Light adaptive lenses, brown. Single prescription (e.g., not progressives if you can manage).

All this talk about JTree reminds of my first night there 16+ years ago:  Flew into Palm Springs late on an early spring day, meeting one of my sisters just off of her flight from Seattle. Drove into Indian Cove in the dark where rental car headlights only hinted at the size of the rocks around the campground. Woke up first, and wandered around in the warm sunlight full of amazement. 

P.S. Best wishes to Parachute and Helen.  A young family of four with one “on the way” - close relatives - has / have been hunkered down the last 3+ weeks as the virus moves through them - in a state with no ICU beds to spare. So far, it seems they will come out of it ok. I am now trying to convince them they should host a house cleansing party when done - not that I am very concerned about the cleaning part ... I just like the symbolism. :)

Parachute Adamswrote:

Blessings with you Helen. Contrary to the belief of many Covid is nothing to mess with. 

My wife, who spent her entire career in health care died last month from covid. A very healthy woman in her 50's gone.

To all here, please do everything you can to protect yourselves and others. And make the most of the life that is safe for all. No one likes lock downs, mandates, or really just being told what to do. But we all need to deal with it. United we Stand.

Many of us know someone who's business had closed due to this. While not right a business can be rebuilt. Can't bring a loved one back.

And you're right Guy. No-one gets out alive (although I have zero respect for that sentiment when you referred to the death of my wife with that). Honestly, that statement is traced back to a drug addled bufoon.

Parachute, So sorry to hear this.

Lori, take care of your nose ASAP. Bruce had a sore on his nose that nobody spotted as cancer and, when they finally did, removing it was a very big deal. He's still recovering from a nasty surgery.