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Natural Top Rope Anchor with Static Rope That is Too Long

Original Post
Cole Morrow · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

Red(figure 8 on a bight)

Blue(Clove hitch)

I'm going to a climbing area that isn't bolted but has trees to use for the top rope anchor. I've seen diagrams where the tail end is friction wrapped around the tree and then finished with a double overhand (I have too much excess rope so I would have to wrap it around the tree a lot), or another (first pic) where they just clove hitch it to a sling and carabiner (this requires another piece of gear and it could potentially slip with cyclic loading). But what about this system I came up with? Although a clove hitch is still used, if it slipped it would just cinch up on the tree rather than fall through since it is a closed system. It's also easier to adjust for equalization. I also would be able to neatly manage the excess rope since it is either hitched or on a bight. Just wanted your opinions and to see if I was missing anything important. FYI I won't be using paracord and a tiny carabiner from walmart haha

Whit Love · · Cambridge, MA · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 10

this looks fine. I usually do a few wraps, figure 8 on a bight, and just clip around the loaded end of the rope, skipping the clove hitch.

TE D · · SLC · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

Whit is referring to a tensionless hitch to finish the left side. 

Tensionless Hitch

Marty C · · Herndon, VA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 70

Tie the second anchor (the one with the excess of rope) by tying a bowline using a bight (rather than the end of the rope), and of course tie a backup knot on the bowline.)

This will allow you to quickly tie an anchor without having to pass all the rope through the knot.

Cole Morrow · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

Thanks Whit, I was thinking that too. I just didn't know if it would load then carabiner in a weird way if it ended up cinching down. So I put the clove hitch in there so it would be loaded along the spine. But if that works i'll probably just do that.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 714
Marty Cwrote:

Tie the second anchor (the one with the excess of rope) by tying a bowline using a bight (rather than the end of the rope), and of course tie a backup knot on the bowline.)

This will allow you to quickly tie an anchor without having to pass all the rope through the knot.

Exactly what I do. Fastest, easiest solution. 

OP: Look for "Bowline with a bight" instead of "bowline on a bight".

Cole Morrow · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

I've seen people do it with bowlines too but wasn't sure how safe bowlines are. A bowline with a bight would basically be a bowline but two stranded right? I looked it up but couldn't find anything. Thanks!

Update: Just found an example of a bowline with a bight thanks again!

Hannah Willett · · Menomonee Falls, WI · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 20

Bowlines are plenty safe if tied correctly. I used them on my anchors and as my tie-in when leading.

Make sure to back them up.

Marty C · · Herndon, VA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 70

Cole - attached is a photo from Bob Gaines book (Advanced Rock Climbing) showing how to tie the “bowline with a bight” and a top rope set up very similar to yours (using rock outcroppings rather than trees)

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,732

You needn't worry about the clove hitch(es) slipping, cyclic loading or not. Just snug 'em tight and start climbing.

Tim Parkin · · Ballachulish, Highland · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0
Gunkiemikewrote:

You needn't worry about the clove hitch(es) slipping, cyclic loading or not. Just snug 'em tight and start climbing.

I had a clove hitch slipping on a recent top rope setup.... If you're going to use a clove hitch near the end of a rope, tie a knot in the rope or add a stopper

Evan Gates · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 9

When I have plenty of rope I use a BFK to make a loop around the tree (or boulder etc.) then clove hitch to adjust to length of that leg:

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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