Wasatch (LCC etc.) Climbing Done for the winter?

Hey everyone, 

Temporarily living near SLC for a month or so. Is all the climbing in the wasatch like at LCC basically unclimbable rn or not? Are there crags that would be dry after snowfall? Never really dealt with these conditions as I usually climb in SoCal. And no I’m not looking to ice climb...

Thanks! 

Yep.  Winter conditions come and go.  South facing melts off fairly quick sometimes.  Rare there's not more than a few days of dry rock especially in areas which aren't below a gully or melt off seep.

Sending temp's!

You'll have to find the specific own micro-climate for the conditions. As long as it's not windy, you're willing to post-hole through the snow and there are 2-7 days between storms, you can find stuff. I'd say you might just get lucky and find the very best conditions for truly hard climbing.

There are windows but you have to also have the right mind-set. Nov/Dec, then starting intermittently in March can still suck really hard but more often less uncomfortable. Late December to February are sometimes doable, yet far less encouraging for finding dry, not-so-damned-cold stone. 

The years I did the most outdoor climbing in the winter were also the years I ice-climbed the most. Maybe just being outside more helped tune in to the weather cycles better? As my kids grew into teenagers everything got thrown out the window.

BCC: 

The mouth of BCC consistently gets the most sun but as inversions start, everything become trickier.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105876455/aguaworld  I mean, why else would they call something February Summer. These routes are on bad rock, which means the FA's had to bolt them in unusual ways. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/118061008/conferring-with-the-sunrise

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/111745629/caesars-palace

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106473691/beer-belly-buttress

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105872670/margin-for-air-wall-and-environs

LCC:

Everything South Facing dries out as long as it's in the sun. Once the inversions start, you'll have to think slightly higher and less crack/more face. 

Gate, Wheeler-Newsome, Kermits, Lizard Head, parts of Green A, Westwind, Early Bird, etc. 

Oh, and the Outer Canyon Boulders and the Bell's Canyon boulders sometimes dry out fast. At least the sunny sides do, which might mean the downclimbs are still frozen and sketchy. Maybe that's why the rock on the shady side can be a lot better?

Some years you can climb all winter and some you can't. The die hards generally drive down to St. George to climb during the winter months. I for one hope we can't climb outside all winter long and we get 800" of pow.

Bongeater up lcc, low elevation, south east facing crack and dihedral, very little snow slope right above the climb to wet it out.

It seems a lot of the crags in BCC don’t get sun in the winter- especially below silent rock (near storm my) so probably hold ice and are cold. The S turns gets some nice afternoon sun. South facing LCC routes get sun even in winter, but routes like beckeys wall are in the shade early in the day because of small turns in the canyon and corners they easily hide behind. If you’re only here for a month looks like the weather is good for a minute, maybe cooler soon, and no precipitation for maybe another week. 

The climbing up LCC is just getting good. I’ve climbed in January and February on the south facing stuff in t shirts. Its my favorite time of year for LCC

Thanks for all the help folks. After some scouting I'm heading up there this sunday for some moderate trad stuff.