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Thoughts on Spending 1-2 weeks in Ouray?

Original Post
Marcos M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 261

I was planning a climbing trip to Potrero in early January that I'm cancelling bc of covid, so instead I'm looking for alternatives that don't require air travel. An alternative I was thinking of is renting an Airbnb in/near Ouray and taking some time (10-11 days) to TR ice at the park (I don't lead, but i''ve got all the gear and partners). 

 Thoughts on this? Never ice climbed there before, but does the park have enough to do for a beginner for that amount of time? 

John Reeve · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 15

I second SinRopa... I did 8 or so days there last year and had never climbed ice before.  

On TR, it's pretty easy (and it's very easy to solo TR at the park) and I was surprised at what I could send.

I haven't led tho, LOL

The only thing I'd worry about is covid spiking harder; Durango schools are going back to all remote learning tomorrow.

Curtis Bennett · · Boulder · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 15

Just a tip for the park, a 30m (or less) long static rope is very helpful for setting up TR Anchors at the park. Some of the bolts are 15-20 feet back from the cliff edge and a static line helps with getting the masterpoint over the lip. I have seen some sketchyness at the park with 10+ slings clipped together to have the master point over the lip....just my two cents

Marcos M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 261
Curtis Bennettwrote:

Just a tip for the park, a 30m (or less) long static rope is very helpful for setting up TR Anchors at the park. Some of the bolts are 15-20 feet back from the cliff edge and a static line helps with getting the masterpoint over the lip. I have seen some sketchyness at the park with 10+ slings clipped together to have the master point over the lip....just my two cents

Thanks this is good advice! Do you know if having non dry treated static line would be alright? Or just some 30ft tubular webbing would be good enough?

John Reeve · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 15
Marcos Mwrote:

Thanks this is good advice! Do you know if having non dry treated static line would be alright? Or just some 30ft tubular webbing would be good enough?

Just an opinion, so take it with a grain of salt, but I much prefer to have cord because I find the knots easier; I often end up with a 2 point anchor with a bight on one side and one side cloved to reduce the extension.  Not as easy to do that with webbing.

I don't think dry treatment is super helpful, but whadda I know?

Dara · · Peep's republic · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 21
Marcos Mwrote:

Thanks this is good advice! Do you know if having non dry treated static line would be alright? Or just some 30ft tubular webbing would be good enough?

Either will work for a top rope anchor. Dry treatment is a must for your dynamic rope; not so much for your anchor material. I’ll be there in January...PM me when you finalize your travel plans, maybe we can meet up and climb.

Curtis Bennett · · Boulder · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 15
Marcos Mwrote:

Thanks this is good advice! Do you know if having non dry treated static line would be alright? Or just some 30ft tubular webbing would be good enough?

I would definitely use a static line over webbing. You are constantly changing anchor configurations so being able to untie the knots easier is a huge plus. I would get something as close to 35 meters as possible, I remember some of the bolts at  south park being pretty far back from the lip, definitely more than 15 feet so 30ft of webbing wouldn't work. I also got a 35 just because I found a good deal on it, it was more than enough for anchoring at the ice park and the perfect length for shooting photos on single pitch sport climbs if youre into that kind of thing. Overall 10 days will be more than enough time to climb at every wall in the park, which is sweet.

Dale D · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 150
Marcos Mwrote:

I was planning a climbing trip to Potrero in early January that I'm cancelling bc of covid, so instead I'm looking for alternatives that don't require air travel. An alternative I was thinking of is renting an Airbnb in/near Ouray and taking some time (10-11 days) to TR ice at the park (I don't lead, but i''ve got all the gear and partners). 

 Thoughts on this? Never ice climbed there before, but does the park have enough to do for a beginner for that amount of time? 

Are you still planning to be in the park in January?

Dale

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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