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Top New Climbing Areas of the (20)20s?

Original Post
Connor M · · American Fork, UT · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Where do you think next "world class" climbing areas will be in the US and International over the next 10 years? 

Also, what do you think it takes for a climbing area (besides amazing rock) to get a big following?

I'm living in Utah now, just a few minutes from American Fork Canyon. From what I understand, at one time AF canyon was considered one of the best places to go for steep climbing. Maybe it's still thought that way, but it's not talked about like RRG, Wild Iris, or Rifle. Different than American Fork Canyon, there's Joe's Valley which isn't too old and not too new. I think a lot of people consider Joe's Valley to be world-class bouldering. Probably Reel Rock will bring even more people and attention to Joe's. 

My initial thoughts are that the development needs to have been going on for some time (so if I find an untouched canyon tomorrow, it likely won't be a big deal this decade). The rock quality needs to be stellar. There needs to be a range of climbing grades, including some routes that are quality and 5.13 or V9. I also think proximity to an airport is important, but not an absolute must. 

So the question is, what does it take for an area to be widely considered a climbing destination worth planning a trip around and which crags do you think will become one of those areas this decade?

Porter Archibald · · Northern Utah · Joined May 2020 · Points: 349

There’s this obscure place called Indian Creek that I think might get pretty popular in the winters

Rocrates · · The Forum · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 15
Porter Archibaldwrote:

There’s this obscure place called Indian Creek that I think might get pretty popular in the winters

Sport climbing areas can't be world-class

Jim T · · Colorado · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 469

Should we start with a list of ones that came to be considered world-class in the 00’s, and in the 10’s?

Eric Danner · · SUPERIOR to Boulder · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

For me, world class would be the complete opposite of what American Fork climbing is. I spent a lot of time climbing in that canyon. The best description I ever heard about that place was comparing it to your local skate park. Super trashy, kinda grungy, covered in graffiti but still fun. 

You are spot-on, the world-class crags of the next decade have already been discovered and are being climbed today. People just aren't talking about them. 

I would disagree with the airport comment I don't consider this a factor. Look at Ten Sleep not even world-class but people still drive 6 hours+ to make the trek out there. 

I think that there is a lot of rock for sport climbers to still find that is not just right off the highway or a short dirt road. Out of all that rock, it is hard to say what is going to be world-class....Hopefully a lot of it!

Rob D · · Queens, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30

Just driving around spain near margalef and siurana it's hard not to see the insane potential all over there.  Even just those two climbing areas still have miles and miles of potential.  When you're standing in margalef and looking at all of the rock pointing out in every direction as far as you can see, each as steep and world class looking as the last, it only really takes someone that's willing to work for it to have another dozen sectors open (I'm not that person). 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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