Worst routes in the RRG

Hi all,

So weird question, I'm looking for some of the most obscure and bad routes in the Red River Gorge. I generally like climbing dirty, less traveled routes and since I will be in the Red a lot in 2021, I thought it be worthwhile to start a list of some pretty obscure things. This can be both trad and sport as long as they aren't dangerous (i.e. R/X rated)

The worst route I ever climbed is ”Another Grunge” at Tower Rock:

https://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/?type=route&id=403

We were trying to find Caver’s Route to do some night climbing, but accidentally got on this thing instead. It‘s a mossy, dirty chimney that I ended up free-soloing up and back down. I kept squishing crickets and salamanders against my body. It still gives me nightmares.

IMO, 2 of the worst routes can both be found at the Hideout in Muir Valley. Earth Surfer 11d and Mantle Peace 10d. Truly terrible.

Not obscure, but Mr.Pee at Chocolate Factory is pretty bad.

Listerine Girl at Shady Grove, Peer Review at the Gold Coast, and Waiting for JJi at Bob Marley are pretty darn meh

Go to redriverclimbing.com, under Tools there is advanced search, and you can search by the number of stars. Or lack of them. 

Crimpy and the Brain at Gallery was pretty craptastic unless you like permanently sandy slopers

Also slither and squeeze at practice wall in Muir, but that thing is more of a highball boulder chimney than a route. The only reason I climbed it was my wife and I were climbing 10 routes in a day starting at 5.1 and going to 5.10a for our 10 year anniversary and it was like the only 5.2 I could find.

^ near waiting for JJ at Marley, Mentee was the worst route I climbed in the red. but every climb in that little corridor should certainly be on your list. Also all trad routes on the right side of Gold Coast should be considered - besides "Eriks first 5.6s" ~5.9  those were great, easily 2+ stars at the red.

Any of the climbs at land before time in Muir valley are candidates for the worst. Developer should have had his drill taken away from him.

I Fwrote:

Any of the climbs at land before time in Muir valley are candidates for the worst. Developer should have had his drill taken away from him.

What? You expected something other than a giant piece of shit from a route called Coprolite?

These all look terrible, and I'm excited to see just how awful things can get! Thanks for the input everyone. I'll gladly keep taking suggestions/stories on awful routes in a world-class climbing destination. 

There‘s some easy trad route the left side of the main Blues Brothers area.  Seemed untraveled and obscure.  It was meh, but what makes it, is all the weird looks the sport climbers give you.  Highly recommend.

I Fwrote:

Any of the climbs at land before time in Muir valley are candidates for the worst. Developer should have had his drill taken away from him.

Ok, Coprolite and Badilisk  are pretty bad, and Sabertooth is one-move wonder with some sand in the mix.

But Prehistoric Examination and Watering Hole aren’t bad, and Ryanosaurus is actually tipping on definitely fun side. 

Peer Review on the far end of Gold Coast totally sucked. I think the guidebook we had said it was often referred to as “the worst route in the red.”

Climbed it literally for that reason. 

Lena chitawrote:

Ok, Coprolite and Badilisk  are pretty bad, and Sabertooth is one-move wonder with some sand in the mix.

But Prehistoric Examination and Watering Hole aren’t bad, and Ryanosaurus is actually tipping on definitely fun side. 

The crux of Ryanosaurus is really stupidly (un)protected, at least if you're short. But it's a fun route otherwise!

Ben Silverwrote:

The crux of Ryanosaurus is really stupidly (un)protected, at least if you're short. But it's a fun route otherwise!

Are you sure you aren’t thinking of Watering Hole? That one had a somewhat reachy move, and ledge fall potential... I am short, and it’s been 8 years ago, but I don’t see anything in my notes about Ryanosaurus being anything but fun. 

Ale 8

International house of pancakes at hideout is pretty ass. We can go ahead and tack on “triggered” at drive-by as well. 

Ha! Off-width fetishists are no longer the new fringe. Introducing: the anti-star chaser ;) 

Ralph and Bobs at long wall, enjoy the second pitch. 

Solomon Grundy looks kinda cool but is absolute garbage: an exploding crimp start that leads into the absolute worst rope drag I have experienced on a sport climb

William Wilsonwrote:

IMO, 2 of the worst routes can both be found at the Hideout in Muir Valley. Earth Surfer 11d and Mantle Peace 10d. Truly terrible.

Yes to Mantle Peace! I don't even understand why this exists. The whole upper ledge is basically the backyard of a trailer park and the deck potential is extreme to the anchors. 

I'd like to offer Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure at Roadside. A slimy, slabby start moves into a choss climb, moves into pulling through clumps of grass and shit. 

There's a route called Hot Fudge Sunday on the left side of the boneyard. It would actually be pretty fun if it were climbed more often, but as it is it's a sandy, spidery mess with some less than perfect rock. Have fun!!