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Leif Johnson
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Oct 24, 2020
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Oak View, CA
· Joined Nov 2017
· Points: 253
Heading out to Joshua Tree tomorrow with my husband who hasn't been able to climb for most of this year. I've highlighted a few things in Vogels and on MP; looking for more suggestions on some fun but easy routes/problems. <=5.7 / V0-. He won't be leading but I can if there's somewhere to build an anchor at the top. Bonus points if it's in Indian Cove!
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Allen Sanderson
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Oct 24, 2020
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On the road to perdition
· Joined Jul 2007
· Points: 1,100
The Eye on Cyclops. Do it at the end on the day to enjoy the sunset at the top.
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Leif Johnson
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Oct 24, 2020
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Oak View, CA
· Joined Nov 2017
· Points: 253
That looks like a lot of fun! Definitely adding it to the list.
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Jeff Santner
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Oct 24, 2020
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Sep 2014
· Points: 13
Short wall in Indian cove has lots of easy stuff with a very easy walk off. Bring long slings or static rope for the anchor. Duchess on fuedal wall nearby is also lots of fun, and you can top rope the neighboring off width to the right
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John Penca
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Oct 25, 2020
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North Little Rock
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 0
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Thomas Claiborne
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Oct 28, 2020
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Flagstaff
· Joined Apr 2016
· Points: 41
Rock garden valley is an area worth looking at. Very shaded if it's a bit hot and a ton of easy/moderate climbs to do. It's also very easy to move anchors over or even TR multiple climbs on the same anchor. This allows you to get mileage on some harder climbs than you may want to lead.
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Matt Himmelstein
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Oct 28, 2020
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Orange, CA
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 194
El Chapo (5.7) and El Chivo (5.8) are on Bilbo Buttress, bolted with anchors up top.
Short Wall has a bunch of stuff you can TR or lead You can walk up (or down) the backside to set or retrieve your gear.
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Matthew Lee
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Oct 28, 2020
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San Diego
· Joined Oct 2016
· Points: 15
Short wall, Fuedal wall and Morbid mound
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everbrad
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Oct 28, 2020
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Orange County
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 10
Overhang bypass, Right on, mental physics (can rappel after p1 which is the money pitch) for short multipitch outings within the main park, moosedog tower has a short 5.6 multipitch at the cove
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rob.calm
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Oct 28, 2020
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Loveland, CO
· Joined May 2002
· Points: 630
There's an introductory guidebook to trad climbing at Joshua Tree "Trad Guide to Joshua Tree" by Charlie and Diane Winger
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Randy Zzyzx
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Oct 28, 2020
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 30
Double Dogleg is great, with bolted anchors
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D B
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Oct 28, 2020
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Gardena (South Bay)
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 30
Yeah, Double Dogleg is great and pretty easy for the grade. Toe Jam, Leap Year Flake, Beginner Three. Atlantis Wall has a ton of easy routes all lined up. Trash can rock but they’re short.
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ohio
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Oct 28, 2020
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New York, NY
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 15
The Dairy Queen Wall also has a lot of good options. And the Headstone is another good end of day formation
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Leif Johnson
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Oct 29, 2020
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Oak View, CA
· Joined Nov 2017
· Points: 253
Thanks all for the recommendations! We ended up spending a lot of time in Indian Cove, mostly Feudal Wall and Short Wall, where the wind was a little more sheltered. Wind and temps were pretty wild the first couple days and we did a lot of hiking, checking out RHVA and Atlantis. Our list of climbs to check out next time is pretty long.
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