Dynamic rope under constant tension
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Weird question as a newbie to outdoor climb but I hope to get some meaningful answers. My partners and I got a dynamic rope for TR outdoor and one guy like to keep the rope under constant tension when he is belaying, and it essentially fells like he is constantly pulling me upwards. His reason is that by keeping rope under constant tension, it will feel like a static rope when I fall. My concern is that the rope might undergo creep and eventually lose its dynamic elongation. Any thought on this matter? Good or bad and your reason? Thanks in advance for the input. |
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ND Do wrote: I think I would find a different belayer. This is nonsense. 8/10 if you’re trolling. |
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If you don't like the way your partner belays, ask them for a slacker belay. If you like it tight, that is fine too. Regardless, you will not damage or affect the rope just with body weight while top roping. I will say, it is not normal to be constantly pulling on the climber. Even when top roping, expect a foot or two of stretch when you come off the wall. This is normal and safe, but takes some getting used to. |
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First, if he knows how to keep the rope tight when toprope belaying, he is better than many belayers. Many climbers don't want it that tight, so he should be able to loosen it when requested. It's totally fine for the rope to remain under tension. |
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ND Do wrote: Your partner is incorrect. |
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If I am tope rope belaying with a dynamic rope and there is a chance that rope stretch could cause my climber to hit the ground, before they start climbing I will take and have them weight the rope, taking up more slack as the rope stretches in order to purposely remove some of the stretch form the rope, and I may keep them tight if they are close to the ground, or if they are a new climber who needs the reassurance of feeling the rope holding them, or might be demoralized by "losing progress" towards the top of the climb or something, but most of the time your climber should never feel the rope unless it is catching them. any time you weight or fall on a dynamic rope, it will stretch, and then shrink back slowly once it is unweighted, regaining its capacity to stretch again. in order to permanently reduce a dynamic ropes capacity to stretch you would need to apply much higher loads than body weight, probably over a long time frame as well, so don't worry about damaging your rope in this kind of scenario. |
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Jared Chrysostom wrote: Bro I just said I'm newbie for outdoor. Indoor gym they only use static for TR. |
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Marc801 C wrote: Can you at least elaborate instead of trying to sound like you're better than everybody else? I deliberately put it right on top that I'm a newbie to outdoor. What is it with this sport that attracts so many pretentious elites looking down on newbies? |
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ND Do wrote: What is it with this sport that attracts so many pretentious elites looking down on newbies? Upgraded to 8.5/10, this is good stuff. |
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Your partner is cheating you of a clean ascent if he’s putting that much tension on the rope, there should always be a bit of slack in the syste, not so much that you risk hitting something if you fall but it should not be under constant tension. The rope won’t be adversely affected from being under tension on top rope. |
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I want some tension on climbs that are hard for me. I'm not worried about it being "cheating" or "not free climbing it," etc. Give your climber the tightness he or she wants. I truly believe some don't know how to keep the rope tight. And they want to lecture you about how the rope shouldn't assist you, blah, blah, blah. (not directing this at you, Kevin) |
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Tight ropes are aid. Real climbers always have their belayers keep slack in the system so they can't hangdog. |
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Foy O wrote: Yes, plenty of times. Maybe you've just forgotten those. |
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ND Do wrote: Others have already, so why duplicate? |
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FrankPS wrote: I’m actually more picky when being belayed on top rope than when I’m leading. Sometimes the belayer that is top roping thinks the climber is totally safe but a little slack in the wrong place could mean a broken ankle or leg on an otherwise insignificant fall. Same goes for a “soft catch” belay while belaying a leader, a soft catch in the wrong place could result broken bones or worse. All this to say a belayer wether top rope or lead belay needs to pay attention to the climber and the terrain and belay accordingly. |