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The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread... (2nd Edition)

Alex Beld · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 130

A great dead tree anchor. I'm not really sure what they were doing. The blue dynamic rope was being pulled over to thoroughfare and running over a lot of rock at the time the photo was taken. 

Pete S · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 223

I miss DL, watermarks, swimmers itch, and only needing a set of hexcentrics to protect any Route there.  Simpler trump free times. 

Josh Lukas · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 99

Overheard from above: “Yeah this area you pretty much have to rap in”

Bonus points if you can name the climb and give alternate approach beta

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Josh Lukas wrote:

Overheard from above: “Yeah this area you pretty much have to rap in”

Bonus points if you can name the climb and give alternate approach beta

Coup d'etat, hike down from the north I think?

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Josh Lukas wrote:

Overheard from above: “Yeah this area you pretty much have to rap in”

Bonus points if you can name the climb and give alternate approach beta

Looks like Cheetah...but that is East Ramparts so probably not.

Pete S · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 223

it’s been many years since climbing DL, but that looks to the right of son of great chimney?  As I recall there are several 5.9-5.11 routes in that area.  Yeah you gotta rap in.  

chris tregge · · Madison WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 11,071

You can scramble down the "great chimney" just to the south of coup d'etat but it's a little sketch, especially with a backpack.  

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

It's Coup d'Etat.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

CRAG-list-KILLA · · Wisconsin · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 205
Ted Pinson wrote:

Yeah that was moldy yesterday? Saturday the 13th that was Leo or laims from the Chicago mountineering clubs, 3 individual strands just clipped to 2 biners. Yikes its  getting crazy out there and it’s only spring. I found one even worse on thoroughfare trying to upload a video. Seriously it’s getting scary out there. 

CRAG-list-KILLA · · Wisconsin · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 205

https://www.facebook.com/groups/230186323837311/permalink/1585952374927359/

CRAG-list-KILLA · · Wisconsin · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 205
CRAG-list-KILLA wrote:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/230186323837311/permalink/1585952374927359/

Take the time to copy and paste that link^

Michael D · · Milwaukee, WI · Joined May 2018 · Points: 70

-Counted 10 slings mostly girth hitched together
-Using a dead tree
-Should have put the slings lower on the tree

Edit: didn't refresh the page to see CRAG-list-KILLA's post, this is the same anchor

8 second video

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
CRAG-list-KILLA wrote:

Yeah that was moldy yesterday? Saturday the 13th that was Leo or laims from the Chicago mountineering clubs, 3 individual strands just clipped to 2 biners. Yikes its  getting crazy out there and it’s only spring. I found one even worse on thoroughfare trying to upload a video. Seriously it’s getting scary out there. 

Yep.  Luckily that’s some strong dirt apparently.  Also ironically I accidentally put myself into the thread as that’s my anchor in the background, but it was a huge tree and a boulder connected with a BFK so I felt ok about it.  Wasn’t thrilled about the static line running over the edge of that overhang but it was the only way to get the masterpoint low enough to avoid running my rope over it.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,305
Alex Beld wrote:

A great dead tree anchor. I'm not really sure what they were doing. The blue dynamic rope was being pulled over to thoroughfare and running over a lot of rock at the time the photo was taken. 

I've done that, with a second rope, sling to separate anchor #2 of course.  My philosophy on dead trees is that if I pull it out by roots, just the weight of dead tree, if not holding me, will certainly scrape across rock towards edge for a few seconds of movement that I'd feel and by then have belayer lower me down FAST!.  Then we both duck the falling tree residue.

Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

Rationalizing using dead trees instead of just building solid gear anchors...that's why this thread exists.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,305
Bootz Ylectric wrote:

Rationalizing using dead trees instead of just building solid gear anchors...that's why this thread exists.

Oh I agree that when there is a better way, to build the anchor.  Just that some 'dead' trees have been 'dead' and remain in place and used for a good decade before they become unstable.    I enjoy this thread for the wacked out spun up  rope and web knotted cluster's that are so entertaining.   If they can't afford enough sling and carabiners to create a proper anchor, they should not be up top setting routes to climb.  Love the cluster pics the best.

M P · · Milwaukee · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0
Woodchuck ATC wrote:

Oh I agree that when there is a better way, to build the anchor.  Just that some 'dead' trees have been 'dead' and remain in place and used for a good decade before they become unstable.    I enjoy this thread for the wacked out spun up  rope and web knotted cluster's that are so entertaining.   If they can't afford enough sling and carabiners to create a proper anchor, they should not be up top setting routes to climb.  Love the cluster pics the best.

You're joking about the dead tree comment, right? 

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Wait...are some people seriously sketched about dead trees?  Dead animals, yes, but I’d FF2 whip on a well rooted 10 year old dead tree all day, let alone top rope off one...at very very least as 1/2 of a redundant anchor (I back up anything less than two fingers)

Maybe I missed all the deaths from uprooted dead trees in the last 30 years of ANAM 

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2

Haha, getting midwestern TR climbers to argue about the worst possible set up is priceless. You guys would be great canyoneers.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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