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Djinns are pretty similar to the djinns and they are great. 

I'd recommend something along the lines of two quickdraws connected by a dogbone

DMM Alpha sport draws with Heliums on the rope side. You'll have to take out a second mortgage on your home, but at least your clips will be .05% more buttery.

CAMP has some very nice and affordable draws (especially on sale).  Wiregates especially.

Ah I see. yeah the djinns are pretty damn djnny, so that may not work for you. I don't really have another rec in that range, but I will second the bulletproof, I picked up three and use one on the first bolt and two at the anchor, and even just those using those three has almost entirely eliminated the black aluminum dust from my rope.

I second the BD hotforges. I always used alpine draws (even on sport routes), because I didn't want to look like some sport-o. I finally broke down and got the hotforge hybrids. I love them, they have a nice feel. 

Sorry to self promote my store but we are selling the WC Helium 2 at 30% off. Price are in CAD and with the high USD its even cheaper for you. Free shipping and tax-free. The Helium 2 is lighter, stronger and overall better than the Helium 3. WC make the third edition to save on production, not to make a better biner. The 15cm Green will also be back in stock soon. This is one of the best draws ever. 

https://www.verticallstore.com/WILD_COUNTRY_Helium_20_Quickdraw/p4546831_17165917.aspx

Started with the cypher draws, now dmm alpha sport draws and really like. The alphas are Beefy and I plan to use for years. You can always change out the bolt side biners and use the cyphers for trad

Petzl Spirit for sport no doubt, WC Helium 2 for alpineish.

For sport cragging the Petzl Spirits still seem like a gold standard to me. Been using mine for plenty of years. Those Edelrid Bulletproof perked my interest when they came out. But I've not once seem someone using them in the field. I have some WC draws that I mixed with Dyons on the gear end, pretty sexy. But I mostly use those for alpine or trad crag. 

Stephen L wrote:

For sport cragging the Petzl Spirits still seem like a gold standard to me. Been using mine for plenty of years. Those Edelrid Bulletproof perked my interest when they came out. But I've not once seem someone using them in the field. I have some WC draws that I mixed with Dyons on the gear end, pretty sexy. But I mostly use those for alpine or trad crag. 

The bulletproof draws are like the dmm alpha draws, but with the bonus wear protection. I like them, but only have a set for quick sport anchors.

+1 on the Bulletproof as anchor draws.  I use wire gates on the bolt/chain end and they weigh about the same as most sport draws that way.  And I use an 18cm nylon doggone for those.

I use DMM Alpha Sport for redpoint sport climbing and love them, got them on sale for $14 each a few years ago which was a no brainer at that price.

I bought 2 Bulletproof draws here from coldfinger over two years ago and use them for anchor draws almost every time I sport climb. They are pretty dinged up and the gate action is getting a little gummy, but they still have a ton of life left even though they’ve been heavily abused and TR’d through.

edgeskier2017 wrote:

Guys I'm too broke for this stuff. I'd need to take out a second mortgage on a house I don't own to afford spirits, let alone alphas, heliums, or bulletproofs. Djinns or hotforges are in my price range tho

Lol, well my approach is to figure out what’s the best gear that will last the longest, and then look for deals on MP or wait for a good sale.

edgeskier2017 wrote:

Guys I'm too broke for this stuff. I'd need to take out a second mortgage on a house I don't own to afford spirits, let alone alphas, heliums, or bulletproofs. Djinns or hotforges are in my price range tho

Check out the CAMP Photon wire ON SALE.  Ive seen them for 12 to 13 bucks each and they're great.

edgeskier2017 wrote:

Guys I'm too broke for this stuff. I'd need to take out a second mortgage on a house I don't own to afford spirits, let alone alphas, heliums, or bulletproofs. Djinns or hotforges are in my price range tho

I originally thought the same way, then I realized the elders were right: buy good gear and save in the long run vs buying something 2-3 times. The alpha draws will last forever vs my cypher draws.

Buy a piece of gear when you can, multiple pieces when you can do more. Remember 10 months of cooking at home to occasionally buying a few items, but usually buying 1 sling, biner, or piece every payday to build my first rack. Be creative

Cheap beta: watch REI, company 2nds page ( BD), and Backcountry sales. the Backcountry wishlist is very helpful for this. Also calling back country and begging for discounts has worked on occasion, only way I found to get a discount on totems without being a guide/pro lol

call me old fashioned, but i like my draws with a reputable biner on either end and something strong connecting them.. not too picky otherwise....

Camp Orbit Wire’s are dirt cheap, decently and easy to clip. but half my binders are sticky after only a year...

Marc-Olivier Chabot wrote:

Sorry to self promote my store but we are selling the WC Helium 2 at 30% off. Price are in CAD and with the high USD its even cheaper for you. Free shipping and tax-free. The Helium 2 is lighter, stronger and overall better than the Helium 3. WC make the third edition to save on production, not to make a better biner. The 15cm Green will also be back in stock soon. This is one of the best draws ever. 

https://www.verticallstore.com/WILD_COUNTRY_Helium_20_Quickdraw/p4546831_17165917.aspx

OMG!

If I can pre-order 6 of them then SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY RIGHT NOW!!!

I bought 6 of the 10cm ones, 6 of the 20cm ones, and a whole bunch of Helium 2 biners in every colour and a belay device from Verti-Call last month. I have nothing but good things to say about the experience. One of their guys while packing up my order noticed that one of the green Helium 2 biners I was buying was a different shade of green from the others. He called me to explain why that was the case (different production runs with varying results in anodization) and if I was OK with it. Since I've been working for the [formerly...] largest retailer of climbing gear in Canada for over a decade I was aware of that variation, but I was impressed that Marc-Olivier's staff were that detail oriented and went to that much trouble to ensure that I would be satisfied.

Djinns are great.  A couple of the edelrid draws are nice to preserve your others. First bolt/ anchors.  

I started carrying my shoes on a bulletproof biner and then throw it on the back of my harness.  Put the weight of the rope on that when sport/trad climbing so I don't burn through my lightweight trad draws.