Recommend me a QD

My Omega Pacific Dirtbag dash wiregates are going bye-bye. They were cheap and good for a season, but I have always hated them because they're so hard to clip. I climb exclusively sport. I've got a set of Cypher Firefly II's and like them for the most part, but they were cheap and feel so. Not a fan of tiny biners. I've got a set of the OG Omega Pacific dirtbag draws with the solid gates and roundstock biners. They instill great confidence but everything about them feels wrong. I get good pro deals on petzl, BD, and some OK pro deals on the others.  

Wishlist:

• ~$60 after pro, so like ~$100ish before pro (Spirits are out of my price range, but Djinns are in). 
• Decent sized biners 
• Dogbones that'll last longer than the Firefly II's
• Basically, something similar to Djinns

Djinns are pretty similar to the djinns and they are great. 

Dang I was gonna buy djinns, but now that you told me that djinns are like djinns, I might just have to buy djinns. I want something djinny, but not too djinny that they are actually djinns. Ya feel? Something solidgate with a keylock nose and a decent dogbone. 

I'd recommend something along the lines of two quickdraws connected by a dogbone

MEGADRAW

DMM Alpha sport draws with Heliums on the rope side. You'll have to take out a second mortgage on your home, but at least your clips will be .05% more buttery.

CAMP has some very nice and affordable draws (especially on sale).  Wiregates especially.

Ah I see. yeah the djinns are pretty damn djnny, so that may not work for you. I don't really have another rec in that range, but I will second the bulletproof, I picked up three and use one on the first bolt and two at the anchor, and even just those using those three has almost entirely eliminated the black aluminum dust from my rope.

I second the BD hotforges. I always used alpine draws (even on sport routes), because I didn't want to look like some sport-o. I finally broke down and got the hotforge hybrids. I love them, they have a nice feel. 

Sorry to self promote my store but we are selling the WC Helium 2 at 30% off. Price are in CAD and with the high USD its even cheaper for you. Free shipping and tax-free. The Helium 2 is lighter, stronger and overall better than the Helium 3. WC make the third edition to save on production, not to make a better biner. The 15cm Green will also be back in stock soon. This is one of the best draws ever. 

https://www.verticallstore.com/WILD_COUNTRY_Helium_20_Quickdraw/p4546831_17165917.aspx

Started with the cypher draws, now dmm alpha sport draws and really like. The alphas are Beefy and I plan to use for years. You can always change out the bolt side biners and use the cyphers for trad

Petzl Spirit for sport no doubt, WC Helium 2 for alpineish.

For sport cragging the Petzl Spirits still seem like a gold standard to me. Been using mine for plenty of years. Those Edelrid Bulletproof perked my interest when they came out. But I've not once seem someone using them in the field. I have some WC draws that I mixed with Dyons on the gear end, pretty sexy. But I mostly use those for alpine or trad crag. 

Stephen Lwrote:

For sport cragging the Petzl Spirits still seem like a gold standard to me. Been using mine for plenty of years. Those Edelrid Bulletproof perked my interest when they came out. But I've not once seem someone using them in the field. I have some WC draws that I mixed with Dyons on the gear end, pretty sexy. But I mostly use those for alpine or trad crag. 

The bulletproof draws are like the dmm alpha draws, but with the bonus wear protection. I like them, but only have a set for quick sport anchors.

+1 on the Bulletproof as anchor draws.  I use wire gates on the bolt/chain end and they weigh about the same as most sport draws that way.  And I use an 18cm nylon doggone for those.

I use DMM Alpha Sport for redpoint sport climbing and love them, got them on sale for $14 each a few years ago which was a no brainer at that price.

I bought 2 Bulletproof draws here from coldfinger over two years ago and use them for anchor draws almost every time I sport climb. They are pretty dinged up and the gate action is getting a little gummy, but they still have a ton of life left even though they’ve been heavily abused and TR’d through.

Guys I'm too broke for this stuff. I'd need to take out a second mortgage on a house I don't own to afford spirits, let alone alphas, heliums, or bulletproofs. Djinns or hotforges are in my price range tho

Dustin Helmerwrote:

Guys I'm too broke for this stuff. I'd need to take out a second mortgage on a house I don't own to afford spirits, let alone alphas, heliums, or bulletproofs. Djinns or hotforges are in my price range tho

Lol, well my approach is to figure out what’s the best gear that will last the longest, and then look for deals on MP or wait for a good sale.

Dustin Helmerwrote:

Guys I'm too broke for this stuff. I'd need to take out a second mortgage on a house I don't own to afford spirits, let alone alphas, heliums, or bulletproofs. Djinns or hotforges are in my price range tho

Check out the CAMP Photon wire ON SALE.  Ive seen them for 12 to 13 bucks each and they're great.

Dustin Helmerwrote:

Guys I'm too broke for this stuff. I'd need to take out a second mortgage on a house I don't own to afford spirits, let alone alphas, heliums, or bulletproofs. Djinns or hotforges are in my price range tho

I originally thought the same way, then I realized the elders were right: buy good gear and save in the long run vs buying something 2-3 times. The alpha draws will last forever vs my cypher draws.

Buy a piece of gear when you can, multiple pieces when you can do more. Remember 10 months of cooking at home to occasionally buying a few items, but usually buying 1 sling, biner, or piece every payday to build my first rack. Be creative

Cheap beta: watch REI, company 2nds page ( BD), and Backcountry sales. the Backcountry wishlist is very helpful for this. Also calling back country and begging for discounts has worked on occasion, only way I found to get a discount on totems without being a guide/pro lol

call me old fashioned, but i like my draws with a reputable biner on either end and something strong connecting them.. not too picky otherwise....