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aiding roof with missing bolts

Original Post
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Hi, 

I'm hoping to head off to to monte brento (Italy) to climb via vertigine. This looks like it includes many pitches of bolted roof. The bolts are 6mm and many have snapped over the years so the recommendation to take a long clip stick. My question is, any clever ideas of moving over such ground. Remember, this is not a case of reaching to clip a good new bolt. I will be reaching out to clip a piece of shit of the same age as the two missing bits of shit.

All I can think of is to use the stick to clip far away bolt, lower out using a separate 7m of cord and grigri. Jug up whilst praying as the bolt can not be tested I assume.

Alternatives?

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

You mean apart from doing a community service and replacing the missing bolts?

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Jim Tittwrote:

You mean apart from doing a community service and replacing the missing bolts?

Will do a bit of that, but with 15 pitches of aid, and hand drilling, I'm guessing we will only have time for replacing a dozen. I'd rather concentrate on the belays. Hang on, this could be a route for the Titt Brothers to get out the batteries and their knowledge? Boys go!

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

If any of the busted studs have any threads left on the part showing you could make some dabloons to get past those sections.  If it is pretty overhung it probably won't work though.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Kevin Mokracekwrote:

If any of the busted studs have any threads left on the part showing you could make some dabloons to get past those sections.  If it is pretty overhung it probably won't work though.

this is what the bolts look like I believe:

https://images.app.goo.gl/ahjoTuGhM1daEE4B9

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

I was wondering about a only using the clip stick to clip a separate short length of rope, that I aid or jug. Hence the lead line is as short as possible, when the far away bolt fails.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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