My buddy wants to climb the nose...

My buddy’s #1 lifetime climbing goal is to climb the nose. Him and I are planning a trip to Yosemite mid to late November (only time he’s available) He wants to attempt the nose. We have 0 aid experience, 0 big wall experience, the longest multi pitch we have done together is 7 pitches. We both consistently climb 10\11- on gear. Please give me ammunition to convince him he’s delusional

tell him you wont belay him on the nose in november

Stephen Szyszkiewiczwrote:

tell him you wont belay him on the nose in november

Alec didn't need anyone to belay him on the nose.

But seriously have him post a TR when he is done

Honestly not that delusional. Just start practicing, do a bunch of reading/research, and have a little grit.

Need a third? I'm in. Sounds like an adventure waiting to happen.

Sounds like you should sack up, spend the next month and a half getting your systems dialed, and have an adventure of a lifetime 

The Nose has a 50-60% failure rate because everyone wants to climb. Many who don’t have the experience and it clogs up the route. Wait and do it when you have experience and know that you can finish it 

Do a different, shorter big wall in Yosemite.

I learned how to climb the Nose from Chris McNamara, on YouTube.

so can you.

Best of luck.  Have fun and be safe. 

Obviously don't clog it up, but what is the worst thing that could happen you struggle the first few pitches then bail?

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Obviously don't clog it up, but what is the worst thing that could happen you struggle the first few pitches then bail?

Or they could, you know, die.

Nobody troubles the Nose I've seen.

Just do it. Failures usually make the best stories later on. 

Daniel Melnykwrote:

The Nose has a 50-60% failure rate because everyone wants to climb. Many who don’t have the experience and it clogs up the route. Wait and do it when you have experience and know that you can finish it 

This ^ 

Imo, climbing a big wall with little experience could possibly lead to rope clusterfucks, inefficiency, traffic jams, having to aid through pitches that you would normally do free, spend extra days on the wall, and putting yourself through situations that you might not be prepared for. If you’re into all that, then go for it!

Go do an easier climb on Washington Column or Lurking Fear beforehand. If you bail don’t climb the nose. If you send climb the nose in November.

Climb the East Buttress of El Cap. 

Not too crazy if you actually regularly onsight 5.10+ granite trad. How many days will you be in Yosemite? Do you have time to do a smaller wall first? 

Practice the basics of hauling, aiding, jugging, and cleaning someplace local through October. Follow Chris Mac's videos and read as much as you can. When you get to the Valley, do South Face of Washington Column or West Face of Leaning Tower. If that feels easy/fun and you have stoke, head up on the nose.

Regardless of how it turns out, it'll be an adventure. Isn't that the point?

Jennifer Ravenwrote:

Regardless of how it turns out, it'll be an adventure. Isn't that the point?

Even if you are setting yourself up for failure? This reads like typical participation medal mentality

Lone Pinewrote:

Even if you are setting yourself up for failure? This reads like typical participation medal mentality

Glad to know nobody is allowed to have their own definition of success. Maybe you go and fail, get stoked, come back and do it for real your second time.