Recs for easy/moderate walls mostly in the shade in Indian Cove.

I’m going with a group of friends to Indian Cove and looking for some walls with easy/moderate routes that are mostly in the shade. Some sport routes would be nice too but not necessary. Feudal wall and Palisades Corridor would be great but they’re in the sun. Thanks in advance. 

Russ Walling wrote:

What is easy to moderate these days?

I’m looking at mostly 5.7 and easier. Maybe some 5.8’s. 

Thanks Russ. I’ll look into these. 

A lot of moderates in the sun at Indian cove and another heat wave on the way.

Bilbo buttress should be shaded early to late morning depending upon the season, then you could head over to spider wall or corona/dos equis.  Campfire girl will definitely be in the shade in the afternoon but it's the only moderate in the area that I know of.  

Can definitely find shade in rattlesnake canyon but the approaches involve a lot of scrambling and Easter egg hunting if you know what I mean, great climbing tho.

Most of the updated guidebooks have good sun aspect descriptions, just keep in mind the closer to summer there's almost no shade at Josh in the early afternoon, pick one up at nomads before you head into the cove.  

Thanks Brad. I’ve really wanted to get over to Rattlesnake Canyon but this isn’t the group for that.   I may try to talk them into going over to Hemingway or maybe Rock Garden Valley. 

D Bwrote:

Thanks Brad. I’ve really wanted to get over to Rattlesnake Canyon but this isn’t the group for that.   I may try to talk them into going over to Hemingway or maybe Rock Garden Valley. 

Those are good spots for afternoon shade, early morning both will have sun, atlantis and thin wall would be other shady options with loads of good moderates, expect to have peeps at all of those places especially if your headed there during the peak season

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105907729/empire-wall

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105720774/varnished-wall

Campfire Girl doesn't have much else around it, but would be the best route of its grade in the shade for you and worth doing. 

Start early / climb late and you can find shade at some of the regular walls. The newer stuff on the backside of Apparition would have morning shade and late afternoon/evening for a little bit as the sun goes behind the higher hills. 

Planned date and time would help with recommendations. There are plenty of awesome routes but chasing the shade is key for summer and early fall in Indian cove. Also group size: big groups, stay in high impacted areas; small groups, the world is your oyster. Willing to hike a bit, even better. Nature trails wall comes to mind for mid to late afternoon. Campfire crag and hodgepodge is good early. Apparation and top hat are great too. Have fun

Hi Andy, I’m gonna be camping in this area realllly close to Apparition Wall. I thought maybe I’d scramble up Sunday morning at dawn and knock out laps on TR solo. Is there a decent scramble up to anchors on Apparition?

Gonna get a guidebook in town, but thought I’d ask here since the topic is current. 

There is an easy 5.fun line called mr. Kromm something something. It's on the back side by the climb Amsterdam. Easy to solo but don't fall.  Once at the top there are scrambles to get to the top of the appirition climb itself. However early morning shade is great on the Amsterdam side of the formation. If you need a belay or a lead let me know, great climbs with never a crowd. 

Feudal wall has many cracks in the 5.3-5.9 range

We ended up climbing at Feudal Wall because it was right next to our sites. Since we had about 6 climbers in our group we only got on Whispering Chickens and The Mikado. We sat out in the shade during the middle part of the day because it was miserably hot in the sun. Not the best climbing but still a fun time with friends.