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Varnished Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Varnished Wall
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Absence of Malice TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Circle of Benevolence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crank Queenie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Disco Sucks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Double Crux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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East Meets West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Grain Harvest TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mosaic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Presence of Grace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shwacker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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With Malice and Forethought T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Elevation: | 3,195 ft | 974 m |
| GPS: |
34.09406, -116.15493 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 10,933 total · 38/month | |
| Shared By: | Mike Morley on Oct 25, 2002 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Classic Climbing Routes at Varnished Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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