Great deals on bolts, hangers, and other hardware

I believe that the glue capsules have been shown to be unpredictable.  I have used AC100.  Was powers, now Hilti I think.  Fastenal carries it but they tend to be pricey.  Look on Amazon, or local bolt supply, Uses standard caulking gun

Tim Kemple wrote:

I believe that the glue capsules have been shown to be unpredictable.

Where do you get that from? They are dead reliable if the user has more than half a brain and you know straight away if something hasn't worked under normal circumstances. You need a bolt made for them but they still give the best results of all the resin systems.

Logan Peterson wrote:

Powerstuds--3/8" x 3" 304 SS. $75 for box of 50.

Ebay#: 333613579604 

I know, these aren't most folks' favorites, but it's as good a deal as what I'm currently seeing on MP. If Peter Thomas still has KB-TZs available, that's certainly a better deal. See his post above.

If I'm not mistaken these are the same bolts that you can get retail from zoro.com for $69.

Mikey Schaefer wrote:

If I'm not mistaken these are the same bolts that you can get retail from zoro.com for $69.

shhhhh

Mikey Schaefer wrote:

If I'm not mistaken these are the same bolts that you can get retail from zoro.com for $69.

Correct. Deleted my now-irrelevant post. Thanks.

Austin Donisan wrote: Steel carabiners for $4.12

https://shop.epictv.com/en/non-locking-carabiners/beal/be-smith-captive?sku=BEAS18_QUIBSC_

Anyone got any good deals on fixed pin carabiners? This is not in stock anymore

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

Anyone got any good deals on fixed pin carabiners? This is not in stock anymore

They go in and out of stock pretty regularly, but it might be a little while before they come back in stock.

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

Anyone got any good deals on fixed pin carabiners? This is not in stock anymore

I got a couple of the fixe ones off Amazon last month.

I will probably wait but I have been toying with the idea of making my own (maybe handlebar taping normal carabiners into 3/8 chain) but I feel like it will look cheap. I have also seen ways to make them captive without a pin like this https://saferescue.com/products/smc-captive-eye-clip?variant=31162586333274 but don't know how well it will work for a long term solution. 

Wrapping biner+chain with bailing wire, tightening with pliers, has worked well for fixed draws out here. Not as pretty as a fixed pin, but we aren't pretty climbers either.

EDIT: This applies to pinless steel and aluminum alike. I am not advocating aluminum biners in high-traffic areas.

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

I will probably wait but I have been toying with the idea of making my own (maybe handlebar taping normal carabiners into 3/8 chain) but I feel like it will look cheap. I have also seen ways to make them captive without a pin like this https://saferescue.com/products/smc-captive-eye-clip?variant=31162586333274 but don't know how well it will work for a long term solution. 

Aluminum carabiners wear really quick compared to steel ones, I would wait until you can get the proper captive-eye steel carabiners again.

Zip ties are quite common around here. If the carabiners are only accessible to climbers then I think the zip tie is good enough. It keeps the carabiner oriented correctly and tells climbers that it's supposed to stay there. If non-climbers can reach them somehow, then the carabiners can easily be slipped out of the zip tie with only a little wiggling. And yes, apparently non-climbers love shiny metal objects that aren't worth much. 

I was gifted 50x 1/2 SS by 2 3/4 inch wedge bolts the length feels a little short. I would be using them on granite slab.  What are your takes on the length?

Evan LovleyMeyers wrote:

I was gifted 50x 1/2 SS by 2 3/4 inch wedge bolts the length feels a little short. I would be using them on granite slab.  What are your takes on the length?

in solid granite, especially on a slab i wouldn't worry about it, especially half inchers. thats still about 2" of imbedment.

Evan LovleyMeyers wrote:

I was gifted 50x 1/2 SS by 2 3/4 inch wedge bolts the length feels a little short. I would be using them on granite slab.  What are your takes on the length?

That is plenty beefy and beefyier than a lot of the index bolts. Make sure to over drill the hole because if someone can’t extract that bolt in 20 years they might have to drill a bigger hole and it is easier to just tap it in and hide it.

I concur with what "a beach" wrote. You're right that a 1/2" x 2-3/4"  wedge anchor "feels" short. Due to the thicker diameter, it is visually "stubby". In the 1970s, granite slabs were bolted with 1/4" Rawl "Drive" bolts between 1" and 1-1/2" in length. Then in the 1980s, 5/16" x 1-1/2". So, your bolts are huge by comparison. I do prefer to use 3-3/4" length when plenty of battery power is available. 

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

That is plenty beefy and beefyier than a lot of the index bolts. Make sure to over drill the hole because if someone can’t extract that bolt in 20 years they might have to drill a bigger hole and it is easier to just tap it in and hide it.

Always a great idea to overdrill holes for mechanical bolts if battery is not an issue.

On the positive side, I was able to successfully remove both of the two 1/2 x 4” wedge bolts I have tried. Just add a 1.25” long 3/8”-16 stud and 3/8” to 1/2” coupler nut to whatever you normally pull 3/8” wedge bolts with. I did have to use a wrench to start the spinning before using a drill to continue spinning the bolts (before using the puller)

I agree they are good enough for protection bolts. I personally would use something longer at the anchors. Most of the rock I bolt is gneiss (metamorphosed granite) so the quality is highly variable. Typically I use 3/8”x3.5” for pro and 3/8”x3.5” + 1/2” x 4” for anchors. The hope being that if, even after throughly visually inspecting and ringing with a hammer, if I were to hit a weak spot, or a subsurface crack running parallel to the rock surface,  that it will embed past it. 

NickMartel wrote:

I agree they are good enough for protection bolts. I personally would use something longer at the anchors. Most of the rock I bolt is gneiss (metamorphosed granite) so the quality is highly variable. Typically I use 3/8”x3.5” for pro and 3/8”x3.5” + 1/2” x 4” for anchors. The hope being that if, even after throughly visually inspecting and ringing with a hammer, if I were to hit a weak spot, or a subsurface crack running parallel to the rock surface,  that it will embed past it. 

I have never understood this mentality, the only case where it makes sense is on multipitch routes where a factor 2 fall is a possibility.  There is no reason that a anchor needs to be made from stronger bolts than the protection bolts, the anchor will never hold a lead fall, it only holds body weight, and you always have a backup.  The protection bolts however need to regularly hold lead falls, and usually, until at least the 4th bolt (sometimes even higher) are the only thing keeping the climber off the deck because were the bolt to break in a lead fall (the most probable failure scenario) there will be too much rope out for the lower bolts to do any good.