Stuff you can't climb if you are just a sport climber. Post em up.

Interesting.  I thought  Ancient Art is one of the  coolest  things I have climbed.   If you paid even the  slightest attention to my OP  you would know that I  love  bolts. My  whole  point is to be a  climber.  Not a  sport  or  trad  climber.  

Why is everyone just posting choss??? I’ve only seen like two or three pure boulders so far 

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

Why is everyone just posting choss???

You want pics in sketchy terrain? Here I am, 3 weeks ago, on the historic route of Aiguilles de Pelens (D), south of France.

Um guys a sport climber can follow up all of these.  Thread is moot.

Kyle M wrote:

Where is that picture? 

Smith Rock. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Interesting.  I thought  Ancient Art is one of the  coolest  things I have climbed.   If you paid even the  slightest attention to my OP  you would know that I  love  bolts. My  whole  point is to be a  climber.  Not a  sport  or  trad  climber.  

Nick,  I know that you like bolts but I've climbed with some crusty old Trad climbers who absolutely refuse to clip them. Ancient Art looks really cool, like a soft serve ice cream or maybe a big poop. I was dismayed by the poor Rock quality on Ancient Art. A half a dozen people climbed it before us the day we did it and when we pulled the Rope to rappel we were showered with gravel. For me the poor rock quality  detracts  from the aesthetics. But  I also  don't  like climbing  on cannon, same  reason. Its why I no longer ice  climb, I don't like things  falling down around me. Just  become a wimp  in my old  age

Can't even climb some things in slabby Darrington, WA, with its sheets of knobby granite. This thing is new, starts with four bolts but then reachy moves into cracks from 1" to 3". I like sport climbing too, but it's nice to keep the bolt count down when hand drilling on lead.

Heck It's the Fishers, what do you expect. Got to love mud! does the whole thing still wiggle when you stand on top?? 

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/climbing-banned-at-taipan-wall-and-other-areas-in-the-grampians/  

Edit: in the intended vein: 

I hate bouldering  unless of course its death zone tall, easy and naked ;)

 but thats beside the point. fact is that there are pleanty of all around climbers who  climb hard..   I would much rather have Honolds and Caldwells skill set than that of some pebble pincher  who might be able to crank a harder number on a tiny rock but can't even come close to climbing what they and thousands of other all around climbers routinely climb..

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Heck It's the Fishers, what do you expect. Got to love mud! does the whole thing still wiggle when you stand on top?? 

Don't  know, I was too much  of a wuss  to stand on top.

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

I hate bouldering  unless of course its death zone tall, easy and naked ;)

 but thats beside the point. fact is that there are pleanty of all around climbers who  climb hard..   I would much rather have Honolds and Caldwells skill set than that of some pebble pincher  who might be able to crank a harder number on a tiny rock but can't even come close to climbing what they and thousands of other all around climbers routinely climb..

You are well aware that most of those “pebble pinchers” are more than physically capable of climbing those things and typically CHOOSE not to do them right? A perfect example is Ondra (while not a boulderer, was not an “all arounder”), once he chose to try his hand at trad climbing and big wall climbing he began at the same elite level as other disciplines. 

 JT you obviously missed the point of the whole conversation.  This topic was started in response to the other thread where they were apparently confused as to why anyone would even bother trad climbing as if it was some bothersome thing that was beneath them.   My post  is in no way disparaging sport climbing. It is pointing out that people who shun trad climbing on principle are missing the basic skills to climb most of the worlds greatest climbs.  saying that you could if you wanted to but choose not to is pathetically lame.   I had no thought of elite climbers and name dropping when I started this. my thoughts were prompted by that whiny thread and my experience with local kids who bitch about not being able to climb at our local crag because its not bolted enough for them. they have to drive several hrs to Rumny just to get a lead in...  they have the strength but not the mental capacity to learn a new skill therefore entire moderate cliffs are shut to them.   gear climbing and crack climbing is not rocket science and its not a dick measuring contest. its simply a tool that allows you to climb more terrain.  Likewise a tard climber who refuses to clip bolts is categorically shutting themselves out of thousands of  great climbs.  Personally I am relieved that most new climbers are not all around climbers as the resource is stretched too thin as it is.  just tired of hearing the excuses and the false superiority.  Its kind of like listening to a martial arts black belt trying to justify not having a ground game.... 

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

You are well aware that most of those “pebble pinchers” are more than physically capable of climbing those things and typically CHOOSE not to do them right? A perfect example is Ondra (while not a boulderer, was not an “all arounder”), once he chose to try his hand at trad climbing and big wall climbing he began at the same elite level as other disciplines. 

Yeah, and EVERY pebble wrestler is pretty much just like Ondra. 

Andrew Rice wrote:

Yeah, and EVERY pebble wrestler is pretty much just like Ondra. 

As, Nick Goldsmith would say, you are missing the point. Bouldering is training for other domains in many people’s eyes, therefore a an average boulderer will be more than capable (physically) of being an average all rounder, an elite boulderer will be more than capable of being an elite all rounder and so on.

It’s not so much about the person (ondra), but about the discipline (bouldering). The strength to be an all rounder will translate whether you boulder V4 or V14. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

 JT you obviously missed the point of the whole conversation.  This topic was started in response to the other thread where they were apparently confused as to why anyone would even bother trad climbing as if it was some bothersome thing that was beneath them.   My post  is in no way disparaging sport climbing. It is pointing out that people who shun trad climbing on principle are missing the basic skills to climb most of the worlds greatest climbs.  saying that you could if you wanted to but choose not to is pathetically lame.   I had no thought of elite climbers and name dropping when I started this. my thoughts were prompted by that whiny thread and my experience with local kids who bitch about not being able to climb at our local crag because its not bolted enough for them. they have to drive several hrs to Rumny just to get a lead in...  they have the strength but not the mental capacity to learn a new skill therefore entire moderate cliffs are shut to them.   gear climbing and crack climbing is not rocket science and its not a dick measuring contest. its simply a tool that allows you to climb more terrain.  Likewise a tard climber who refuses to clip bolts is categorically shutting themselves out of thousands of  great climbs.  Personally I am relieved that most new climbers are not all around climbers as the resource is stretched too thin as it is.  just tired of hearing the excuses and the false superiority.  Its kind of like listening to a martial arts black belt trying to justify not having a ground game.... 

How is that pathetically lame? Nearly all those individuals who do not climb trad or on rope have valid reasons (wanting to test their physical limits, costs, location, etc)...calling them “pathetically lame“ sure seems like you are shunning those climbers, no? 

the excuses that I hear are pathetically lame. It costs too much says the dude who buys lattes every day and drinks super expensive hippy beer. whatever.  you are free to climb whatever the fck you want to climb just don't spray about how much better you are than the person who climbs big rocks because you have a sexier number attached to your small rocks..  they are still small rocks...  

the difficulty is really immaterial. Its the fact that the climbing grade is at or below their comfort grade but they can not climb it not because it is too difficult for them but because they chose not to learn how to place gear. the excuse that it costs too much simply does not fly when they are pissing away $20 bucks a day on non essential crap like beer. coffee, weed, junk food etc.