Comprehensive List of North America's hard cracks, 5.13 and up?
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Augie Wagnerwrote: Jesus, leading that while placing gear would be half the battle, you'd have to sew it up or be fine with the potential to deck in many places. |
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Matt Wetmorewrote: Calling the wide boys and those people who made a space net under crack house (I think??). |
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Mason Earle made a space net and used it for Trench Warfare IIRC, could have him ship it out :P |
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camheadwrote: NEW YORK Zabba, 13a, ADKs, FA: Dave Aldous I’d exclude this one from your excellent list as the crack is around 12- followed by a V6 or 7 face crimping crux |
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Bit controversial since it was also bolted, but Turbo Trad at Palomas Peak, NM Also have Century Crack, Black Mamba and the other WideBoyz white rim sends been included yet? |
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Didn't Hazel Findley redpoint Charlie at RRG? I think it was part of the Pretty Strong film. |
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Cobra crack 5.14 in Squamish |
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Jon Frisbywrote: I'd argue that that is an incorrect characterization of Zabba. There is a crack sequence as difficult as 12+. The face crux is about 12b. Crimp strength is not a limiting factor in sending the route. |
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Never Never Crack In WA deserves to be on the list. Edit: I now realize this is a 9yo thread.... |
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Anyone talk about Royal Arches yet? Probably |
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Jon Clarkwrote: Hmm interesting, not that I’ve come anywhere near sending, but i have had a lot more success on the crack part than the upper crux. I am not at all a good crack climber and can usually face climb a little harder than what you’re describing. |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/route/110368968/merlin Merlin 5.13 - Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge (Charon's Gardens) - FA: Marcus Garcia https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105872586/rage Rage 5.13a - WMWR (Narrows' Lichen Wall) - FFA: Marcus Garcia, Duane Raleigh and party used 1 aid move on FA. |
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Following. Augie Wagnerwrote: Does anyone have any info on this crack? It looks worth a trip. |
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Danny Parkerwrote: Unfortunately all I know is that it's somewhere in the Meadow river gorge. I used the wayback machine on Pat Goodman's blog which shows that once upon a time there was a video of him working on it, but apparently his vimeo account has been deleted. :( Also in the interests of this thread, using the wayback machine I found this thumbnail of a former video of a mystery 5.13 crack: Though I'm sure it's more likely the blank face above the crack that is the actual 5.13 part. |
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Danny Parkerwrote: Get it Danny! |
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Danny Parkerwrote: I've been working it a lot over the summer, it's notoriously wet all the time but every now and then it dries enough for a serious burn or two. |
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Augie Wagnerwrote: I've been on this one, it's not a crack at all, just a super thin seam and a V7 boulder problem, you place gear above or below that seam but can't get anything in it. |
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Amanda Smithwrote: I'd love to get the spray down on this, it looks amazing. |
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Danny Parkerwrote: Sweet, hit me up, I need suffer partners |






