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Comprehensive List of North America's hard cracks, 5.13 and up?

Matt Wetmore · · Traveling · Joined May 2017 · Points: 565
Augie Wagnerwrote:

Did the General project (huge roof crack) at the NRG ever get freed? I haven't heard anything about it since I first read about it some years ago.

Jesus, leading that while placing gear would be half the battle, you'd have to sew it up or be fine with the potential to deck in many places.

Alex Guzman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0
Matt Wetmorewrote:

Jesus, leading that while placing gear would be half the battle, you'd have to sew it up or be fine with the potential to deck in many places.

Calling the wide boys and those people who made a space net under crack house (I think??).

Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA / Tokyo, JP · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 147

Mason Earle made a space net and used it for Trench Warfare IIRC, could have him ship it out :P

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 280
camheadwrote: NEW YORK Zabba, 13a, ADKs, FA: Dave Aldous

I’d exclude this one from your excellent list as the crack is around 12- followed by a V6 or 7 face crimping crux

Phil Sakievich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 131

Bit controversial since it was also bolted, but Turbo Trad at Palomas Peak, NM

Also have Century Crack, Black Mamba and the other WideBoyz white rim sends been included yet?

Ari Grode · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 5

Didn't Hazel Findley redpoint Charlie at RRG? I think it was part of the Pretty Strong film.

Porter Archibald · · Northern Utah · Joined May 2020 · Points: 349

Cobra crack 5.14 in Squamish

Jon Clark · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,533
Jon Frisbywrote:

I’d exclude this one from your excellent list as the crack is around 12- followed by a V6 or 7 face crimping crux

I'd argue that that is an incorrect characterization of Zabba. There is a crack sequence as difficult as 12+. The face crux is about 12b. Crimp strength is not a limiting factor in sending the route.

Michael T · · WA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 732

Never Never Crack In WA deserves to be on the list. 

Edit: I now realize this is a 9yo thread....

Daniel Melnyk · · Covina · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 50

Anyone talk about Royal Arches yet? Probably 

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 280
Jon Clarkwrote:

I'd argue that that is an incorrect characterization of Zabba. There is a crack sequence as difficult as 12+. The face crux is about 12b. Crimp strength is not a limiting factor in sending the route.

Hmm interesting, not that I’ve come anywhere near sending, but i have had a lot more success on the crack part than the upper crux. I am not at all a good crack climber and can usually face climb a little harder than what you’re describing.

Miles Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 14,573

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/110368968/merlin

Merlin 5.13 - Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge (Charon's Gardens) - FA: Marcus Garcia

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105872586/rage

Rage 5.13a - WMWR (Narrows' Lichen Wall) - FFA: Marcus Garcia, Duane Raleigh and party used 1 aid move on FA.

Danny Parker · · SLC, UT · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 120

Following.

Augie Wagnerwrote:

Did the General project (huge roof crack) at the NRG ever get freed? I haven't heard anything about it since I first read about it some years ago.

Does anyone have any info on this crack? It looks worth a trip. 

Augie Wagner · · Richmond, VA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 705
Danny Parkerwrote:

Does anyone have any info on this crack? It looks worth a trip. 

Unfortunately all I know is that it's somewhere in the Meadow river gorge. I used the wayback machine on Pat Goodman's blog which shows that once upon a time there was a video of him working on it, but apparently his vimeo account has been deleted. :(  Also in the interests of this thread, using the wayback machine I found this thumbnail of a former video of a mystery 5.13 crack:

Though I'm sure it's more likely the blank face above the crack that is the actual 5.13 part.
Phil Sakievich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 131
Danny Parkerwrote:

Following.

Does anyone have any info on this crack? It looks worth a trip. 

Get it Danny!

Amanda Smith · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 878
Danny Parkerwrote:

Following.

Does anyone have any info on this crack? It looks worth a trip. 

I've been working it a lot over the summer, it's notoriously wet all the time but every now and then it dries enough for a serious burn or two. 

Amanda Smith · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 878
Augie Wagnerwrote:

Unfortunately all I know is that it's somewhere in the Meadow river gorge. I used the wayback machine on Pat Goodman's blog which shows that once upon a time there was a video of him working on it, but apparently his vimeo account has been deleted. :(  Also in the interests of this thread, using the wayback machine I found this thumbnail of a former video of a mystery 5.13 crack:

Though I'm sure it's more likely the blank face above the crack that is the actual 5.13 part.

I've been on this one, it's not a crack at all, just a super thin seam and a V7 boulder problem, you place gear above or below that seam but can't get anything in it. 

Danny Parker · · SLC, UT · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 120
Amanda Smithwrote:

I've been working it a lot over the summer, it's notoriously wet all the time but every now and then it dries enough for a serious burn or two. 

I'd love to get the spray down on this, it looks amazing. 

Amanda Smith · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 878
Danny Parkerwrote:

I'd love to get the spray down on this, it looks amazing. 

Sweet, hit me up, I need suffer partners

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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