Grand Teton Pack List

Not sure when I'll try again. The guy I went with isn't really interested in trying again. I don't think I'll try OS or Upper Exum again there was too much scrambling to get to the actual climbing. I may try Full Exum or Petzold Ridge some time. I think for this season I may try some more accessible climbs on Disappoinment peak or Symmetry spire.

Petzoldt is a fair bit easier than the Lower FYI. 

rgoldwrote:

"I'm gonna gently push back against some of the light is rightness.  Counting on perfect weather and perfect conditions and nothing going wrong is a gamble lots of people take and are no worse off for it......"

Glad you pushed back. People have unique needs based on ability, comfort levels, and the nature of the challenge. And of course, many lack the financial resources to even consider all the gizmos climbers pack into the mountains these days. You don't need a kitchen sink to climb the Grand so some advice on gear is useful. As was illustrated with a recent crevasse rescue in the Tetons, some climbers lack a firm understanding of potential hazards matched up with the right skills & gear for unexpected challenges (It was an unknown unknown to them).

I will gently push back that gambling is the right metaphor. In the minds of many, it suggests that something irresponsible is going on. Or selfish, wrong, etc. Hear that all the time.

Fast and light, perfect for some. 

Slow and light, good for most. 

Fast and heavy, the 1%.

Slow and heavy, effing-painful memories.

If storms are bumping up against the Tetons, I would want to be as light and fast as possible to get off that lightning rod. If temps are falling as that storm blows in (not uncommon in the Tetons), I might suddenly need all sorts of gear. Aaron Gams, who wrote the guidebook, Teton Rock Climbs, lost his toes to Hypothermia after a storm trapped him in the Tetons.

Jason D. Martin, Executive Director American Alpine Institute, said that, "Speed in the mountains is safety; and, speed and efficiency are everything". Context is important here but the general idea is that high alpine settings favor those who can move quickly, safely, and efficiently.