Humor me - What's the best splitter crack in southern California?

If this thread annoys you then you certainly don't need to participate, just move along. 

I know the superlative means nothing but these threads can be fun. I would say let's keep it to J Tree, Idyllwild, Woodson, etc. So no Needles (sry) 

Anyways, criteria would be rock quality, climbing quality/length, aesthetics and position/exposure. Feel free to submit a candidate for each grade. 

I'm gonna start the thread with Flower of High Rank because of the length (if done in one pitch), splitt-itude of the crack, and awesome exposure.

Toe Jam in josh

W Kwrote:

Toe Jam in josh

threads over boys. pack it up

HUGE Tradifan wrote:

Define "splitter".

When you n the boys get pitted at creeksgiving. That's "splitter"

Just about every crack at the Needles.

But nothing compares to toe jam... 

First, define your terms.  Does "southern California" include the Needles?

Edit: oh, I see you excluded the Needles. I’m sure Bakersfieldians would approve. 

Flower of high rank on Suicide

Mostly face climbs but there are several good splitter cracks at my new climbing area. 

For sheer excitement it's hard to beat that section on Flower before turning the roof! I got a little off balance, dropped a cam, and miraculously trapped it with my foot against the rock, reached down and saved it .... phew .......

If you're willing to include Domelands, ya gotta check out Kaopectate Blues. I left a ridiculous comment on the page here on MP. It's a very long crack on slab. Not near as exciting as Flower but a real fine crack.

The highest concentration of splitters is right here in Woodson. It would be ridiculous to chose just one. Come on down and hang by The Crucible at sunset. 

PS. Toe Jam.... hell yeah !!!

I have two of them. 

Pirate at Suicide and Equinox at J Tree. Both must be among the best ( and hardest?) in So Cal.

Robbins Crack..... Sheesh

I’ll toss this one out, or both these.

The Needles are in Southern Cal so I’ll dib “The Emperor” 5.11a on Voodoo Dome. 160 feet of finger fun.

Up at the Palm Springs tram, on Kaufman Crag.
“Its Always Something” 5.11b/c A fine “splitter” ... Starts as a squeeze chimney- goes to hands in a corner- the corner changes and it’s a finger layback ... the dam thing pinches off with the last 15 feet of steep face then 15 feet of hold less friction. It’s also 160 feet long. I really love this one because it’s got every type of climbing move you can do- all right at 5.11 - Full Value.

All those climbs mentioned above, Flower, Pirate, and the many Woodson ones are good, but they can’t really be included IMHO because they are short. The same holds true for most Josh ones. Premature ending syndrome. The two best at Taquits are. The 5.9 crack section on El Wampo  and The Y crack .

Good topic, no flaming, why do you ask? 

Guy Keeseewrote:

 The 5.9 crack section on El Wampo  and The Y crack .

Guy,

El Whampo is a 5.7 climb. The second pitch crack is great, at 5.7.

FrankPSwrote:

Guy,

El Whampo is a 5.7 climb. The second pitch crack is great, at 5.7.

FrankPS.... We always do the variation Tom Higgins Figured out, that’s 5.9.... but you’re correct the fine long crack on El Whampo is 5.7.

The mind is a little fuzzy about all those routes, it’s been a long time.

Good catch 

Bat crack and Insomnia

Webster definition of "splitter":

          A crack that splits the rock perfectly in a parrellel fashion without irregularities

Ok so while all of these other climbs are great, they ain't splitta. Common peeps have some reading comprehension. Even tho short, robbins crack is the clear winner of splitter crack in so cal. 

Case closed 

HUGE Tradifan wrote:

Define "splitter".

I actually invented  the term “splitter” in reference to certain crack climbs while partying around a campfire in Leavenworth Washington many many  years ago while planning a future Willis Wall assault. This was years  before a boulderer in Leavenworth named Jens Holstein (whom I never met). My  term was In reference to splitting firewood as a kid straight down without a lean. I also coined the term “spray” in reference to climbing the same night. Overlaps, flakes, seams, corners, liebacks, leaning hand jams don’t  count. Must be straight in. Many famous trad areas that the magazines love don’t have any “splitters”. Many highly hyped cracks are not “splitter”.. Acid Crack j-Tree, Pancake Flake - Nose El Cap. Most Squamish stuff. . etc. 

Jake Pwrote:

Bat crack and Insomnia

Neither splitter by definition.  But awesome  climbs though. Anyone of us poor souls solo Insomnia?

Does a crack have to be ruler straight to be splitter? Does it have to be parallel sided or can it have constrictions, etc.?

If no to the above, then Rubicon is on my list. Then of course there's Hercules. 

Heart of darkness is closer to the mark but not quite there yet. 

Guy Keeseewrote:

The Needles are in Southern Cal so I’ll dib “The Emperor” 5.11a on Voodoo Dome. 160 feet of finger fun.

Yeah I know Needles are excluded. Just wanted to second this.