Looking for #4 cracks in the Front Range

Lexi, did you read my many years old comments on Black Elk in the database?

It's not really comparable to either Maxi Lash or Horns Mother. Both are quite a bit easier and narrower.

What makes Black Elk hard is the size, for someone my size, I need extraordinarily deep fists, so deep I can't pull. Or I need to do hand hand stacks, but the internal shape of the crack is such that it doesn't allow me to do a high footed calf lock, how I'd do that same size in the creek.

What becomes necessary is the ring of power (tm). That's the top and bottom fist, coming together to touch waay inside the crack, but never quite making contact. Your head (the whole thing, not a case of helmet or not) will be maddeningly in the way. Grovel the feet up, and reset the ring as needed. If you need to relax and contemplate your life choices, it's simple enough to back up into a hand hand stack. 

The roof is easy

This is a bit less strenous but much longer than BG Crack at Vedauwoo. That's where you need to focus. It's possible to set it up for laps if you want a derma peel.

Another concern, based on the Lexi part of your name. A handjam for me is a #2 camalot and a fist is a tight 4. Like most adult males. My wife has much smaller hands than that and did end up just pulling gear through a couple sections, even though she's the better climber of us.

Bill Schickwrote: Your post cracks me up - why did you feel you needed to try to add something to the thread?  You had to aid both - you obviously have no idea what you are talking about.  Your “advice” is actually unhelpful, IMO. 

Calm down keyboard warrior.  I think his comment is valuable as MANY folks approach black elk with his attitude/strategy.  

Yes OP was asking for some training advice but his counterpoint is totally relevant that most of black elk is 5.10 and if you just to enjoy that climbing before you're 100% sure you'll on-site the fists just go for it.  

Look at the ticks on black elk. A lot of hangs and falls at the wide part. Somebody who didn't on-site the route ABSOLUTELY can comment and contribute to someone asking about the route.   

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsionwrote:

Lexi, did you read my many years old comments on Black Elk in the database?

It's not really comparable to either Maxi Lash or Horns Mother. Both are quite a bit easier and narrower.

What makes Black Elk hard is the size, for someone my size, I need extraordinarily deep fists, so deep I can't pull. Or I need to do hand hand stacks, but the internal shape of the crack is such that it doesn't allow me to do a high footed calf lock, how I'd do that same size in the creek.

What becomes necessary is the ring of power (tm). That's the top and bottom fist, coming together to touch waay inside the crack, but never quite making contact. Your head (the whole thing, not a case of helmet or not) will be maddeningly in the way. Grovel the feet up, and reset the ring as needed. If you need to relax and contemplate your life choices, it's simple enough to back up into a hand hand stack. 

The roof is easy

This is a bit less strenous but much longer than BG Crack at Vedauwoo. That's where you need to focus. It's possible to set it up for laps if you want a derma peel.

Another concern, based on the Lexi part of your name. A handjam for me is a #2 camalot and a fist is a tight 4. Like most adult males. My wife has much smaller hands than that and did end up just pulling gear through a couple sections, even though she's the better climber of us.

I’m finding it insanely difficult to figure out what in the world you mean by ring of power, and if that’ll work haha. I’ve done plenty of 4s cracks and imagine it’s gonna be a fight with arm bars, elbow locks, and slight heel toe camming? Is the crack flared? 

It is armbars. Two of them, one high and one low, both nearly horizontal.

Imagine only one of our little cartoon heroes here, only making fists instead of pointing his little fingers. The crack is basically at his shoulders. He'd be deeper except for that darn head in the way.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsionwrote:

It is armbars. Two of them, one high and one low, both nearly horizontal.

This may be the best analogy/descriptive photo I've ever seen for climbing beta. I'm sure I'll be yelling as loudly as they are too.

I can fit a thin hand into a wide 0.75, and wide 3s are already almost too big for fists. Basically, I'm fucked lol.

The Flame on Pikes Peak is super similar to Black Elk.  I've climbed both.