rope for new trad leader

Hi all,

I've been sport climbing for about 4 years, and am slowly transitioning to leading on gear (think lots of following + reading). I climb mostly in the southeast, and have been using a 60m 9.8 rope up to this point (Mammut dry). I'm in the market for a new rope and am wondering what's the ideal length/diameter to protect beginner trad leads in the southeast. I'm leaning towards a 70m rope around the 9.8 range. Thanks in advance!

if its twice the length of your typical single pitch routes, rated for lead falls and a color you think is pretty, youll be okay

This has been my favorite all around/beater rope for a couple years. https://sterlingrope.com/store/climb/ropes/dynamic/performance/vr9-98-mm

mine handles super well, and has stood up to a lot of abuse, and comes at a good price. I was at a guide training last summer with this rope, and all the other guides also loved it. 

There isn't really a different between a sport rope and a trad rope.  Both have to be carried to the crag and both have to have dynamic stretch to catch a fall.  Where you climb will define if you need a 70 or a 60.  Personally, I only buy 70s as some of the newer sport routes are set with that in mind and it allows you to link up pitched on some established multi-pitch climbs.  Look at the areas you are likely to climb in the next year or so and let that be your guide.

I find that 9.8 is thinker than I want, especially if I go with a 70 and plan on linking pitches.  A skinnier rope will tend to have less drag so you are not working as hard to pull up the rope towards the end of the pitch and it is easier to belay a second on multi-pitch.  Of course, the route matters a lot with this along with how you manage your placements.  There are plenty of durable cords in the 9.5 +/- range.

I have the new sterling quest 9.6mm and I love it! It's supposed to be a skinnier version of the velocity 9.8. Mine handles super well, and seems to be plenty durable so far.

Gotta echo what others have said, the Sterling VR9 is *unbeatable* at the price, and the new Sterling Quest is the new, slimmed down (9.8 to 9.6mm) version of the velocity.

Obligatory shoutout to things like the edelrid eco boa if you want to vote with your dollar for sustainability, I've never had an edelrid rope let me down (metaphorically)

You are on the right track. I'd go for a 9.3-9.6 mm rope with 70 m length. Just get whatever rope fits your criteria and is cheapest.

thanks much for the input guys

Just an FYI that if you use the rope only for trad, you will not be taking as many whippers. Much less wear. Unless of course you make it a habit of whipping on gear, but you'll find that most people tend not to do that on trad. 

Mello Onsightwrote:

Just an FYI that if you use the rope only for trad, you will not be taking as many whippers. Much less wear. Unless of course you make it a habit of whipping on gear, but you'll find that most people tend not to do that on trad. 

+1 for this line of thinking.  The abuse a "trad" rope (especially if still learning meaning inefficient systems, etc) that's different from a "sport" rope will be more of the getting dragged around abuse, sitting in dirt/mud/sand/snow (less if you're in SW) type of abuse.  The whippers and core shots and lots of hanging on the line aren't usually as prevalent.  Doesn't mean you need a fat cord, just consider these factors.

I picked up an Edelrid Boa Eco 9.8, 70m this year because it was the cheapest way into a good 70m. Great cord for the $, I’m very happy with the purchase. 

+1 for the Edelrid Boa Eco 9.8. Supple for a 9.8 while also being durable for a 9.8. A great price, esp when on sale or if your gym has a member discount. IIRC it has a bit higher sheath % than others, which helps to mitigate trad-specific drag wear. Each one is a bit different color-wise (though they tend to get dirty quickly so they end up all looking various shades of brown) and you're helping to save the environment, which is something I think most climbers appreciate. I agee that 70m is a good call in general.

whatever is on sale... 

If you're climbing in NC, go with a 60m.