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single 70m rope for ice

Original Post
hector galbraith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

About to get myself a new rope for the coming (I hope!) season. Want one that is Dry, 70m length, and about 9.5mm diameter. Who recommends what?

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 4,588

That sounds heavy.  Why not a smaller diameter?  Ice is usually really friendly to rope sheath. 

hector galbraith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Jon, yes I could go down to about 9.2 but skinnier than that I am wary of.

Jackie S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 113

I have the bd green 9.4 and it's been great

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
hector galbraithwrote:

Jon, yes I could go down to about 9.2 but skinnier than that I am wary of.

Wary of what? Out of curiosity 

hector galbraith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Wary of cuts from rockfall or toolsl, abrasion, controlling rap with iced up rope.

timothy fisher · · CHARLOTTE · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 30

I like Beal Opera 8.5mm . Alpine guide Atc works great with it. Usually retire ice ropes from age or loss of water resistance. Never wear. Damn sure not falls!

chris b · · woodinville, wa · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 11

yup, opera

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Sterling makes an excellent rope if you like supporting a US company. I have their 7.8mm Photons and have a 9.2 single though I haven't used the latter yet. They also make a great 9.5mm if you prefer that diameter, I've climbed on my partner's a few times. 

If you want an even skinnier single, I had an 8.9mm Edelrid Swift that I used for ice with no complaints. 

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
hector galbraithwrote:

Wary of cuts from rockfall or toolsl, abrasion, controlling rap with iced up rope.

YMMV, but IMO, The Slope of the risk curve is way flatter than the benefit curve as ropes go smaller.   Hard to beat triple rated 8.5-8.7 ropes for ice, and like Abandon says, double up for sketchier mixed or wandering terrain if warranted. 

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

If I was going to actually buy a long single for ice it would be the lightest grams per meter available.  I typically climb multi pitch ice with 7.8 doubbles but i like useing a single for cragging. i won a 9.2 70m at ice bash which is awesome but seems heavy to me. I still use a single strand of 8.1mm half rope for easy alpine.   Old knees. 

Mark Westfall · · Denver · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

A 9.5mm X 70M would be fine for cragging e.g. Vail. For long multipitch ice, like Cody Wyo, I like to use a sub 9.0mm X 60M lead line and 6mm tag line for rappelling. In a place like Cody dealing with the logistics of handling one rope is so much nicer than halves. The follower can keep the tag line in their pack for the entire climb. For anything more alpiney I like half ropes.

AlpineIce · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

I've got plenty of mileage on Beal Ice Lines and they're a great option.  I have less time on the 9.1 Joker, but I like that, too from the few climbs I've tied into it.

Mammut's new line of alpine ropes looks pretty good.  I own the 9.5 Infinity and that's been a great line, though I much prefer the thinner ropes these days.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043
Jackie Swrote:

I have the bd green 9.4 and it's been great

That's what I have and it's been good as well. Runs bout 8lbs for the 70m

Ira OMC · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 730

I wouldn't even bother with a single unless you are tr soloing. 

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110

Look at the Mammut Infinity 9.5mm.  I used it for a few seasons on ice. It treated me well.

hector galbraith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks all for the advice on single ropes. Am currently thinking of either the BD green 9.4, or the Mammut 9.5 Crag (the rope previously known as the Infinity). Need to save some $$ first!

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

hector, check out the grams per meter of whichever rope and for ice  get the lightest because durability is really a non issue with ice. 

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

I use my new ropes on ice only until my rock rope is toast. Then my old ice rope becomes my new rock rope and I buy a new ice rope.

The waterproofness never lasts forever but it does last longer if only used on ice. 

Maybe the new UIAA dry ropes will last a bit longer.

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276

I'm a fan of a thin triple on climbs that don't involve rappelling. (Walk off/short rap etc.)

I pair a 8mm half with my opera when I'm doing long rappels.   

hector galbraith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Many thanks for all the valuable input. Have just bought a 70m dry "Quest" 9.2mm from Mountain Steals. Once the ice season gets under way I will post a users review.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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