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Descent Beta for Regular Route, Cardinal Pinnacle

Original Post
Phil A · · Vienna, AT · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 405

Hi! Does anyone have information about the descent from the Regular Route (5.6) on Cardinal Pinnacle? I've seen a few different options, from rapping down the main face, to rapping down the back, or scrambling and not having to rap at all. Not quite sure which would be the easiest/safest. If anyone has any advice regarding this, or the route in general, it would be much appreciated. Thank you. 

jake w · · mammoth lakes, california · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 574

4 single rope (70m rope) raps to the base of the west face is what I've always done, and seems to be the most popular option as you can easily top rope the prow while heading down.

j w · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 8

This is covered in at least 2 guidebooks:
The Good, the Great, and the Awesome
Bishop Area Rock Climbs

Both are available online or at local stores in Bishop. 

Phil A · · Vienna, AT · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 405
j wwrote: This is covered in at least 2 guidebooks:
The Good, the Great, and the Awesome
Bishop Area Rock Climbs

Both are available online or at local stores in Bishop. 

Sorry, I should have been more clear, I have the Bishop Area book. I was hoping for some first-hand advice since the reports I saw (mainly on summit post) mentioned different descent options, all of which seemed decent.

Also, I wasn’t sure how the traverse is from the top of the regular route to the rap anchors on the prow. 

Phil A · · Vienna, AT · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 405
jake wwrote: 4 single rope (70m rope) raps to the base of the west face is what I've always done, and seems to be the most popular option as you can easily top rope the prow while heading down.

Thanks Jake, appreciate the info. 

Bob Harrington · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

You can rap the left facing chimney/corner, which you may want to do if you leave a pack at the base or there’s a traffic jam on the rap route down the Prow.

RAZORsharp · · CA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 780

If you're not comfortable with exposure, then getting to the top of the raps might feel quite exposed. The first rap is into space, for 30-40ft, before you touch down on the slab and start to head to climbers left for the anchors above the stellar prow pitch. every other rap is quite straight forward.

If you are headed out by the moves getting to the rap station, you COULD set up an anchor above the bolts and downclimb with gear to the rapline, then have your second follow and retrieve the gear....
Remember, that rap is the only direct rap to the base of West Face and surrounding routes, try your best to share the anchors with faster rapping parties.

Zach Baer · · Bellingham · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5

I rapped from the top of the corner with a 70. The second rap (from the block/tat station) didn't get to where I roped up, but it was easy enough to downclimb. You can also set a gear anchor if your partner wants to do a third rap down to the talus slope below.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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