Descent Beta for Regular Route, Cardinal Pinnacle
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Hi! Does anyone have information about the descent from the Regular Route (5.6) on Cardinal Pinnacle? I've seen a few different options, from rapping down the main face, to rapping down the back, or scrambling and not having to rap at all. Not quite sure which would be the easiest/safest. If anyone has any advice regarding this, or the route in general, it would be much appreciated. Thank you. |
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4 single rope (70m rope) raps to the base of the west face is what I've always done, and seems to be the most popular option as you can easily top rope the prow while heading down. |
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This is covered in at least 2 guidebooks: |
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j wwrote: This is covered in at least 2 guidebooks: Sorry, I should have been more clear, I have the Bishop Area book. I was hoping for some first-hand advice since the reports I saw (mainly on summit post) mentioned different descent options, all of which seemed decent. Also, I wasn’t sure how the traverse is from the top of the regular route to the rap anchors on the prow. |
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jake wwrote: 4 single rope (70m rope) raps to the base of the west face is what I've always done, and seems to be the most popular option as you can easily top rope the prow while heading down. Thanks Jake, appreciate the info. |
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You can rap the left facing chimney/corner, which you may want to do if you leave a pack at the base or there’s a traffic jam on the rap route down the Prow. |
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If you're not comfortable with exposure, then getting to the top of the raps might feel quite exposed. The first rap is into space, for 30-40ft, before you touch down on the slab and start to head to climbers left for the anchors above the stellar prow pitch. every other rap is quite straight forward. |
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I rapped from the top of the corner with a 70. The second rap (from the block/tat station) didn't get to where I roped up, but it was easy enough to downclimb. You can also set a gear anchor if your partner wants to do a third rap down to the talus slope below. |



