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First time in Yosemite

Original Post
David Vizcaino · · Summit County, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

A group of us are driving to Yosemite from Colorado early August, but none of us have ever been. I’m the only seasoned climber in the group, so I was looking for some leads on the crags that are beginner friendly. I don’t want to congest the popular areas. Ive been scoping through the areas but I figured some beta from the locals would go a lot further.

Thank you to anyone that helps out! Have a great day ya filthy animals!

Doug Kinsman · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0

Tuolumne Meadows, going to be waay too hot in the valley. Dozier Dome is a great place to get away from crowds and has a ton of moderates.

David Vizcaino · · Summit County, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0
Doug Kinsmanwrote: Tuolumne Meadows, going to be waay too hot in the valley. Dozier Dome is a great place to get away from crowds and has a ton of moderates.

Thanks Doug!

Gerald Adams · · Sacramento · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

At first light it can be cool enough & uncrowded in the Valley for some mellow short ones. Have a great trip !

Karl K · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 542

Dozier Dome is away from the crowds?!?!   Maybe this year that is true.......  Normally the conga line waiting for Holdless Horror is longer than at Starbucks the day they start Pumpkin Spice lattes back up.
Tuolumne is a great choice this time of year - but you don't really tell us what you mean by 'beginner'.  5.9 or under?  5.6?  What about style & length?  Slingshot toproping after a lead?  Multipitch?
Wind Tunnel is a great beginner area - one of the few places with a concentration of pretty good easy climbs - but everything is 140'+.  So  top roping after a lead won't be easy. (same with Dozier, though).
Some other places to think about would be Murphy Creek; maybe Toproping the 10s after leading the Golfer's Route on Low Profile Dome (popular, but easy to tell that from the road)

David Vizcaino · · Summit County, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0
Karl Kwrote: Dozier Dome is away from the crowds?!?!   Maybe this year that is true.......  Normally the conga line waiting for Holdless Horror is longer than at Starbucks the day they start Pumpkin Spice lattes back up.
Tuolumne is a great choice this time of year - but you don't really tell us what you mean by 'beginner'.  5.9 or under?  5.6?  What about style & length?  Slingshot toproping after a lead?  Multipitch?
Wind Tunnel is a great beginner area - one of the few places with a concentration of pretty good easy climbs - but everything is 140'+.  So  top roping after a lead won't be easy. (same with Dozier, though).
Some other places to think about would be Murphy Creek; maybe Toproping the 10s after leading the Golfer's Route on Low Profile Dome (popular, but easy to tell that from the road)

Beginner, as in, first time climbers. I can lead up to 5.12 sport and 5.10 trad, the others in my party are noobs but also adventurous and eager to learn. Most likely slingshot toproping after I lead the route, or they can just follow up on the longer routes. Single pitch and multi pitch welcome. Any style of climbing is welcome. Ideally, looking for a spot with lots of moderate routes, sport and trad, to have a great experience for them and myself. 

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

When you say crags, do you mean TR areas?

David Vizcaino · · Summit County, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0
Gumby Kingwrote: When you say crags, do you mean TR areas?

Any areas welcome

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52
David Vizcainowrote:

Any areas welcome

Per the Valley, TR areas are generally down 140 and 120.  Check out the Sloth Wall area (I don't know the name of the rock.  Sloth Wall is a route), Pat and Jack Wall, Five and Dime.

Swan Slab and routes around Jam Crack have some TR options are well.

For multipitch, Swan Slab Gully, After 6, The Grack, Munginella, and Regular Route up Sunny Side Bench.

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

Yeah for climbing the Meadows will be much better. However if you’ve never been you should at least go see the valley. The Meadows is world class climbing and spectacular, but the valley is Mecca. Do an early morning hike up to Pine Line at the base of the Nose. Only takes 20 minutes or so.  You could even throw a rope on Pine Line 5.7 if you went early enough.

Mark Frumkin · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 52

Do you have a reservation? 

David Vizcaino · · Summit County, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Bump

Karl K · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 542

All in Tuolumne:
Could be busy, but you might want to look at Guide Cracks area & Western Front (DAFF area).  
East Wall of Lembert has great rock (and I have never seen another climber there)- but not much below 5.8.  Very few anchors - more shenanigans required for TR. 
Bunny Slopes is great (150' climbs - but doable for most beginners) and you can see from the road if it is busy.
There is an 'upper tier' on the northeast and also west side of Puppy Dome (both above Puppy Crack & also Do or Fly).  Never climbed there,but have seen huge Outward Bound-type groups on TR there.  Short approach.  Bolted anchors.

Famous Raymus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

id check out the church bowl. it's pretty shaded and last year it was not busy in the early morning

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

I'll chime in with another vote for the Meadows. The Valley in August just plain sucks. Sure, definitely go see it and get blown away by the big stone, but don't bother climbing there unless you really like being in an oven.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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