The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread... (2nd Edition)

Doug Hemken wrote: Just to be clear, I was suggesting a road trip just to set up bad TR anchors, not necessarily to climb.  Why wouldn't we welcome Robert to set anchors?

Only if he sets up clearly insane anchors (preferably with non-climbing rated gear) and then posts up pics here for us to make fun of.  

I'll buy him a beer if he stays at Wheeler's.

EDIT TO ADD:  I was really disappointed with the weather and climbing at the Lake this year. Two 3 day trips were cancelled because of crappy weather.  

Buck Rio wrote:

Wow, that is not so good...but there is no rope running through the biners, so maybe it was put up as a joke.

That TR set was mine. What you can't see in picture is the tri cam and the hex under the pad. So there are essentially 4 anchor points. The only other option for anchors were the trees across the East bluff trail. Figured that would have been rude. If the 2 smaller trees would have been the only anchors I would not have set it

You guys are pussies, that little tree is bomber.

Mark Wenzel wrote: You guys are pussies, that little tree is bomber.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAA!!!! 

Mark Wenzel wrote: You guys are pussies, that little tree is bomber.

Watch out for these Indiana guys 

Is the 3/4" diameter tree supposed to reduce the angle of the furthest right webbing's direction of load? Usually I am in favor of hanging babies off of solid anchors and gear, however I would not endorse hanging a baby here. Also... Can someone say tail fetish? What are you doing down in Indiana? 

Jacob Weyenberg wrote:

Is the 3/4" diameter tree supposed to reduce the angle of the furthest right webbing's direction of load? Usually I am in favor of hanging babies off of solid anchors and gear, however I would not endorse hanging a baby here. Also... Can someone say tail fetish? What are you doing down in Indiana? 

Oh man until you said something I didn't even notice the webbing coming from the second little tree and going around that little plant!

Not a top rope, but can someone explain this to me?

Ben Silverwrote: Not a top rope, but can someone explain this to me?

Really bad Photoshop

Bobrunning Runningwrote:

Really bad Photoshop

I wish! It was posted on the Fans of Devil's Lake Facebook page by someone who does not know the climber.

Ben Silverwrote:

I wish! It was posted on the Fans of Devil's Lake Facebook page by someone who does not know the climber.

Ah yes, Facebook, where photoshop doesn’t exist and no one can tell a lie.

I’m not implying the photo is faked at all, but saying you found something on Facebook so it must be real is not a very solid qualifier. 

Cronwrote:

Ah yes, Facebook, where photoshop doesn’t exist and no one can tell a lie.

I’m not implying the photo is faked at all, but saying you found something on Facebook so it must be real is not a very solid qualifier. 

Lol that's not what I'm saying at all. I'm saying that the context tells me it's almost certainly not photoshopped. Simply no reason that it would be.

HUGE Tradifan wrote: Just when I think MP can't get any dumber...

You were bound to be disappointed.

Maybe a Dan Osman wannabe? 

Buck Riowrote:

OK, I was the guy who asked the question.....Was Tommy Deutschler part of this vaunted group?  I partied with him back in the day at Interstate Park in St Croix Falls WI.

Yes, Tommy D. was known as the " Prince of Fukness" 

LMAOOO CLASSSSSSIC LAKE FUCKERY!! Imma tell ya now there’s plenty of Fukness that still happens to this very.damn.day

Time to revive this thread.

I'm not sure if people are confused about what constitutes a 3-point anchor, which should be the standard practice at DL.  The following anchors all have three pieces of gear, but are all 2-point ("2-legged" might be a clearer way to say it) anchors.  For an anchor to be "best practice at the Lake", there should be 3 independent legs reaching back from the master point.

Why 3 legs - we only use two for sport anchors?
Because if you misjudge a piece of gear (everyone does, eventually):

•  if you have one anchor leg, you have the ultimate disaster (and we've seen these)
•  if you have two anchor legs, the whole thing shifts and your anchor material (webbing, rope) CUTS on one of the many sharp quartzite edges.  This could be an upper edge, it could be a lower edge, it could be a vertical edge.  We've seen this happen numerous times.  At best you RUIN your anchor gear and someone gets a jolt of adrenaline, at worst ....
• if you have three anchor legs, things shift a little, and at worst you ruin some gear.

Our quartzite is particularly unforgiving.  While 3 anchor legs is not standard practice everywhere, it really needs to be here.

It might look like I'm picking on one particular group in the following photos, but I saw this from 3 independent groups yesterday afternoon. In fact, the majority (>50%) of the anchors at the East Rampart yesterday afternoon used 3 anchor pieces but had only 2 legs. Several of the photos here show enough spare rope to set these anchors properly.

If that's what qualifies as a top rope cluster fuck these days then we should close up the thread.