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Recommendation on where in Wyoming to visit

Original Post
Justin Andre · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 336

Coming to Wyoming for the first time in August to climb.  We'd like to spend 3-4 days sport climbing (5.7 - 5.11d) but also would like to do some multi-pitch trad climbing (5.4 - 5.9, 5-10 pitches ideally) for a day or two.  Is there a single location we could stay in Wyoming that has access to quality climbing for both types of climbing that are within 1.5 hours of each other?

Thanks!
-Justin

Ty Gittins · · Bozeman · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1,456

Bighorn mountain range could be the ticket there. Mostly sport of very high quality, but there is some multipitch granite as well. Not sure if there is an area in the state that meets that criteria, but you could also combine lander sport climbing and alpine granite in the wind rivers

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 146

Devils Tower, Fremont canyon?

Ty Gittins · · Bozeman · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1,456

Freemont is sick and underrated. Never could understand why it was empty nearly every time I went climbing there. Some longer routes. August has a chance to be too hot. Maybe better off above 7000 ft in the bighorns, winds or tetons. 

The Morse-Bradys · · Lander, WY · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 4,707

Laramie Range or Jackson would just about fit the bill.

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 280

Either combine devils tower and ten sleep or Fremont canyon and wild iris

R Walters · · Sonora, CA · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 310
Ty Gittins wrote: August has a chance to be too hot.

Approximately a 100% chance. 

Hson P · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 54
R Walters wrote:

Approximately a 100% chance. 

I’m stopping there on my way from Devil’s Tower to Cirque of the Towers in a couple weeks - I hope it’s bearable! 

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

The 5.6 traverse on Wolfs Head

Ty Gittins · · Bozeman · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1,456

I left work in Casper one early September day to climb wine and roses. It was like 85 in town, and was approximately 85 degrees while on the route...Freemont has a short season more akin to crags in the Midwest and east coast. If I had 4 days to sport crag in August I'd go to tensleep. With 2 remaining days for alpine climbs I'd head to Jackson and do Irene's arete or something comparable in GTNP.  

Carolina · · Front Range NC · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 20

When traveling to Wyoming, I do my best to split time between Casper, Wheatland and Rawlins.  The triangle of Beauty some have called it.

Kevin Bradford · · Boise · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 228

Wild iris for the sport climbing, Jackson for the multi pitch climbing. You could do Jackson for the whole trip, though the sport climbing around town isn’t anything to write home about but it might be enough to keep you busy for a few days.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Thinking outside the box (the box in this case being the rectangular border of Wyoming), you could consider Spearfish Canyon + Devils Tower. Good limestone sport climbing and a classic multipitch crack climbing area within 1.5 hours of each other. Both could be pretty warm in August, but it is easy to find shade in both areas.

Staying within Wyoming, Ten Sleep + Devils Tower would work also, but it is a bit more driving between them (3 hours). Combining Wild Iris sport climbing and some long routes in the Tetons would work well; again looking at about 3 hours between the two. Wyoming is known for big open spaces, which generally translates to long drives between places.  Regarding the Wind River Range: amazing long routes, and quite close to Lander sport climbing as the crow flies, but it wouldn't be especially realistic to go in there under your timeline due to to long hike in.

I think the best option though is to just choose one destination and spend the whole week there. Wyoming has some amazing climbing areas that each deserve a full week (or longer). You'd get better value out of staying in one spot and getting to know it well, and not driving around so much. If you want to sport climb go to Tensleep; it is the best option for great limestone climbing, cooler summer temperatures, and afternoon shade. Wild Iris would be the other good sport climbing option. If you want to multipitch climb you should backpack into the Cirque of the Towers (Wind Rivers), set up a basecamp there, and spend the week climbing on some of the best alpine granite in the US.

Justin Andre · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 336

Thanks everyone!  Very helpful.
-Justin

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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