New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #12

Oldtradguywrote:
We will try to climb locally tomorrow morning just doing TRing the new project overhang and 2 other climbs. Jean wants to go to Birdsboro Tuesday to try some sport climbs. It looks like it will be in the 90s the next week or so. Need to climb very early in the shade.

John

Alternatively, you could come to Rumney next Tuesday! It opens Monday. We plan to be there Tuesday, weather (and parking) permitting. 

ETA: we have been isolating in our house in Ulster County since March. We haven't climbed with anyone else yet either. We bring masks when we climb in case we can't maintain a generous distance. We aren't in any risk categories, but we want to be responsible, and I don't want this suggestion to sound cavalier. 

Tim Schafstallwrote:

We should get together for climbing at Bboro or Safe Harbor after all this virus stuff is under control.  Stover is a bit of a pain for me to get to on weekdays due to Blue Route and I-76 mess (I'm in Newark, DE).

Nick

Not a problem. We have not been to Safe Harbor in a very long time. An hour farther we can go to the Gunks. Stover is about 15 minutes away. The Edge is about 20 minutes. We try to go early in the morning before the heat and anyone else shows up.

John

Alicia Sokolowskiwrote:

Alternatively, you could come to Rumney next Tuesday! It opens Monday. We plan to be there Tuesday, weather (and parking) permitting. 

ETA: we have been isolating in our house in Ulster County since March. We haven't climbed with anyone else yet either. We bring masks when we climb in case we can't maintain a generous distance. We aren't in any risk categories, but we want to be responsible, and I don't want this suggestion to sound cavalier. 

Alicia

It would be nice to hook up with you guys. We have not been to Rumney yet. We will get up to Rumney and NH area at some point in time. I wanted to do some multi-pitch slab climbing since I am not good at that.

We only had one pit stop each way on the trip to Seneca. Everyone had a mask on at the rest stops. We prepared all our food a head of time and ate by ourselves. Since we fixed up our van, we stay secluded by and in the van.

Since Jean is 67 and I am 66 (67 next month) we are always careful. We also take food to my parents once or twice a week. They are almost 90 years old. 

If things go well in late August or early September (Coronavirus) we will head out to see our youngest son family in Sandy UT. We will stop by for a day or two at Vedauwoo WY before we get to UT. I talked to Helen and we will stop to meet up with her for about 5 -7 days in COR area. We will then head up to McCall and climb at Slick Rock and then continue up to Moscow ID to see out oldest son. I also want to get to Joshua Tree and meet up with some friends that live out there like Lori and my good friend Soo.

Thanks for the offer to meet up next week. We have plans that can not change for next week. I will let you know when we take a quick one day trip up to the Gunks.

John

Oldtradguywrote:

Alicia

It would be nice to hook up with you guys. We have not been to Rumney yet. We will get up to Rumney and NH area at some point in time. I wanted to do some multi-pitch slab climbing since I am not good at that.

We only had one pit stop each way on the trip to Seneca. Everyone had a mask on at the rest stops. We prepared all our food a head of time and ate by ourselves. Since we fixed up our van, we stay secluded by and in the van.

Since Jean is 67 and I am 66 (67 next month) we are always careful. We also take food to my parents once or twice a week. They are almost 90 years old. 

If things go well in late August or early September (Coronavirus) we will head out to see our youngest son family in Sandy UT. We will stop by for a day or two at Vedauwoo WY before we get to UT. I talked to Helen and we will stop to meet up with her for about 5 -7 days in COR area. We will then head up to McCall and climb at Slick Rock and then continue up to Moscow ID to see out oldest son. I also want to get to Joshua Tree and meet up with some friends that live out there like Lori and my good friend Soo.

Thanks for the offer to meet up next week. We have plans that can not change for next week. I will let you know when we take a quick one day trip up to the Gunks.

John

Sounds like you have a great plan for later in summer. I figured it would be too late to change plans for next week, but it never hurts to offer! 

This next week would be way too hot to make those slabs fun, anyway.

Oldtradguywrote:

. I talked to Helen and we will stop to meet up with her for about 5 -7 days in COR area. 

John

What dates had you planned on being at COR?

Oldtradguywrote:
I talked to Helen and we will stop to meet up with her for about 5 -7 days in COR area. We will then head up to McCall.

Oldtradguy:

If you need someone to climb on Slick Rock with, get in touch.  It's 10 miles from my house, I know it well.  Lots of sport climbs at the Thinking Spot, and, Jim Pace and I are putting up some new trad climbs at the head of the lake.

Helen:
When are you going to the City.  Maybe I could tag along, put up top ropes for your group, lead multi-pitches if that's on the agenda.

@Idaho Bob, I gave you a glowing recommendation! Also the drive up the middle of Idaho, if they aren't in any hurry.

All, I am 3.5 hour drive from City of Rocks. I literally can do 2 nights with about 40 minutes to throw stuff in the car and get the cats set.

Which means, I can go there pretty much anytime I want.

No specific plans with John and Jean, we just confirmed what they hope to do.

City of Rocks is different this year. Post covid, you'd think it would empty out, but that's not the case. Instead, it is a go to place for Idaho and Utah families to camp. Reservations are staying booked up, for weekends at least, even in the hot season.

The last two trips in June, camping was quite full....but the climbing was fine. People, yes, sometimes also wanting what you were on, but never crowded.

September is prime season on the other end, and, weekends remain largely booked. Weekdays, not as much, but that's still months out. A lot of uncertainty about fall.

I'll post about the specifics for the fully booked September dates shortly, so all of you have that handy. Those are set, confirmed, and paid for (admittedly in an amusing collection of names that have little to do with who actually is there. We'll sort that later, as needed).

Oh, and if anyone travels through Boise, well....it would be nice to see a live human once in awhile.

Best, Helen

SEPTEMBER CAMPING AT CITY!

September 10-21
Twin Sisters area, campsites 1,2,3,4

September 13-18
Twin Sisters group camp

Details:
This is the entirety of the Twin sisters camping, except the group camp was already booked both weekends.

Site 1-4 share a little parking turnaround. 3 and 4 are right off the turnaround, 1 and 2 a short little trail up. All sites have at least a tent pad, picnic table, and fire ring with grill. This area can take anything on the smaller side, vans, small rv's, very small trailers. The info says 1 vehicle per site, but two per site is fine. There is no longer a fee for a second vehicle.

The group camp is a large parking lot adjacent to camping. Several fire pits, tables and areas where a tent can be pitched. This is where bigger RVs and trailers can be accommodated, including our glampers living in that lovely fifth wheeler!

The group camp is also the vault toilet (very clean and well maintained) for the Twin Sisters area. The group camp is just across the road from the 1-4 campsites.

The Twin Sisters formations are off limits to climbing, but there is a fair bit of stuff up there  The Indian Chief formation is right at the group camp  This area is off the beaten path, sorta, so we'll have the place to ourselves.

There is no water in the park, except at Bath rock and Castle Rocks, but there is an outside pump at the visitors center in Almo where you can fill up.

There is a general store, Tracy's, with a gas pump, a pretty good variety of whatever you forgot to pack (coffee!!!!), really nice burgers and lunch specials (don't expect a full menu), ice cream, extremely dangerously good cookies, and yes, the post office for Almo. Also you can buy a shower from them and laundry service. Nice people. Married 45 years last fall, IIRC.

Almo also has a hot springs. Concrete pools, four of them, varying in size and temperature, including a pool cool and large enough to swim.

Again, all of this is already a done deal, awaiting any of you who can mosey over. So long as camping doesn't close up, and I am ambulatory enough to drive, I will be there 10-21.

Best, Helen

The Twin Sisters. I'm parked at site one parking. Behind me, is the group camp. EDIT to clarify, I took this pic from the road. My Honda is parked at the site one parking. Across the road behind my back is the gate to the group camp.


Climbers on Suncup Slab.

FWIW, Lori, there are a LOT of great climbs even easier than 5.6 all over J-tree. Off the top of my head there are a bunch at Short Wall at Indian Cove in the 5.4-5.5 range. The Bong and The Eye at HVCG are both beautiful climbs in the 5.4-5.5 range. Outward Bound Slab is another place with easy climbs and a nice little warmup hike to get there. You won't go wrong by climbing WITHIN your ability a lot and only periodically thrashing at something above your grade.

I suspect the reason you've been able to climb some 5.10 slab climbs is that there's no discipline in climbing where being on lead vs. following makes such a difference. Leading on slab takes a huge mental focus and courage. Following is just staying stuck to the rock. I know that's true in other types of climbing, too, but there's a huge disparity, IMO, between what I can lead on slab and what I can follow. Not so much with cracks or other kinds of face climbing. 

Checking in. It sounds like climbers here are getting together everywhere. I’m so happy ya’ll are meeting up, making plans and sharing your stories.

I got out today to just climb.  I had set something up for my daughter’s visit but today it was just me.  Tony got on me a little beforehand saying “Lori. Just have fun. You’re supposed to be enjoying this!”  And he called it right.  It’s easy to forget how fun climbing is.  

I’m sunburnt and sore and limping from something. Must have whacked a leg. We saw a chuckwalla on the rock so that made it special.  But mostly it was nature, just the magnificent day and blue blue sky, the luck of having this wall in shade, and making another new friend. 

I don’t know where this journey is going.  I think of my children when they were small and riding their tricycles. One day they were just ready to hop on the big bike. I’m grabbing the reins more and more when I’m on rock... but it has to stay fun.  I would not have led the start of any of these routes. 

I wish I could experience someone else’s body when climbing... I wonder does everyone feel this tentative, shaky, uncertain when moving up a crux?  Or do I have no business business being out here?  

It was fun. Lots of laughter and stories.  And playtime on a top rope to work out the opening moves from the deck on Leaping Leaner and adjacent routes. Leaping off the boulder really does seem like the best plan.   

Lori Milaswrote: 

I wish I could experience someone else’s body when climbing... I wonder does everyone feel this tentative, shaky, uncertain when moving up a crux?

Yeah that sounds about right :-)

Focus hard and move through it!

Andrew Ricewrote: FWIW, Lori, there are a LOT of great climbs even easier than 5.6 all over J-tree. Off the top of my head there are a bunch at Short Wall at Indian Cove in the 5.4-5.5 range. The Bong and The Eye at HVCG are both beautiful climbs in the 5.4-5.5 range. Outward Bound Slab is another place with easy climbs and a nice little warmup hike to get there. You won't go wrong by climbing WITHIN your ability a lot and only periodically thrashing at something above your grade.

I suspect the reason you've been able to climb some 5.10 slab climbs is that there's no discipline in climbing where being on lead vs. following makes such a difference. Leading on slab takes a huge mental focus and courage. Following is just staying stuck to the rock. I know that's true in other types of climbing, too, but there's a huge disparity, IMO, between what I can lead on slab and what I can follow. Not so much with cracks or other kinds of face climbing. 

Senor, I thought about your second statement for awhile! True, I think. I know I sure will never ever ever lead Suncup slab, even though it's a fun 5.5! I also will never lead a single pitch of ice....but it isn't nearly as scary as thinking about leading Suncup! In fairness, Suncup is essentially a solo. No pg, x or r, though, because it's simply easy. Still. If you did fall....

Somehow I'm (theoretically) more okay with the idea of the whole route falling off with me on it (ice), then contemplating absolutely don't fall while climbing (Suncup). No idea what that says about me, lol! "Don't fall" territory is definitely not me, that's for sure.

And would someone put up a nice easy offwidthy kinda thing on Lori's home turf? I really like the idea of a route name....so I can maybe someday also text "Eaten by a Chuckwalla".

Best, Helen

Old lady Hwrote:

Senor, I thought about your second statement for awhile! True, I think. I know I sure will never ever ever lead Suncup slab, even though it's a fun 5.5! I also will never lead a single pitch of ice....but it isn't nearly as scary as thinking about leading Suncup! In fairness, Suncup is essentially a solo. No pg, x or r, though, because it's simply easy. Still. If you did fall....

Somehow I'm (theoretically) more okay with the idea of the whole route falling off with me on it (ice), then contemplating absolutely don't fall while climbing (Suncup). No idea what that says about me, lol! "Don't fall" territory is definitely not me, that's for sure.

And would someone put up a nice easy offwidthy kinda thing on Lori's home turf? I really like the idea of a route name....so I can maybe someday also text "Eaten by a Chuckwalla".

Best, Helen

I'll lead suncup for you, Helen

"I wonder does everyone feel this tentative, shaky, uncertain when moving up a crux?  Or do I have no business business being out here?"

Of course everyone does from time to time. Or more often from time to time. Last weekend I did a grade 14 where I had to pull on a quick draw. Ridiculous considering I can do laps of a 21 on TR, but it was the first climb of the day and the first lead for a while.

You're doing a bloody good job, you're inspirational.

Everyone has business being out there, doing their own thing. Like Iggy said:

"All of it was made for you and me
'Cause it just belongs to you and me
So let's take a ride and see what's mine" 

https://vimeo.com/293722694?fbclid=IwAR18uc1iewDfZ7YU5q244kUlAECL0WY9N1MmFEHOrUuEZGig8jjC5boysFk

 
Here's something that might brighten your 4th celebration.  You guys from OZ, can view also.  I found it very informative, new placement techniques for tri-cams and how to use that BD#5.  But best of all the concept of "FTA".  First traditional ascent. Perfect.

Dallas Rwrote:

What dates had you planned on being at COR?

Dallas

I am not sure yet. I will let you know.

If you want, we can do Sinocranium. It is a 5-6 pitch climb 5.8. There is only one pitch of 5.8. It is a very short pitch 30-40 feet with a lot of bolts in this section. You could do a French Free if needed. Most of this climb is easy slab climbing. You can easily skip bolts on a lot of the pitches. 2 raps to get off and then walk around the back side to get back to the packs.

There is also Theater of Shadows 4 pitch 5.7 climb. One or two maybe moves on the first pitch. Again, you can skip bolts on the slabs. Jean and I took Helen up this in a party of 3. I can climb with you and Jean and Barb can climb together. Use both ropes for one rap off then. 

We can talk later this month.

John

What’s the cell signal situation in COR? We might still be teaching on-line in September..... :) 

Idaho Bobwrote:

Oldtradguy:

If you need someone to climb on Slick Rock with, get in touch.  It's 10 miles from my house, I know it well.  Lots of sport climbs at the Thinking Spot, and, Jim Pace and I are putting up some new trad climbs at the head of the lake.

Helen:
When are you going to the City.  Maybe I could tag along, put up top ropes for your group, lead multi-pitches if that's on the agenda.

Bob

I would like to meet up with you. I remember reading Rock & Ice issue 50 that had the topo for the Regular Route. I have 2 friends that have climbed there one did the Regular Route and the other did Memorial Route. Both of them like the climb very much.

I did a quick scan of Thinking Spot. It looks pretty good.

I will get in touch with you later this month. Also thanks for getting in touch with me.

John

Happy 4th everyone!  
I'm curious about having a home wall.  Does anyone have one and regularly work out on it?  If so, what kind?
I have just assumed that a home wall would get boring quickly with the same routes/holds, and it would be bulky and finally just gather dust.  
What say you?  

ErikaNWwrote: What’s the cell signal situation in COR? We might still be teaching on-line in September..... :) 

For phones, with most carriers you can get good signals in Almo and also on the large rock formation to the left of the Flaming Rock trailhead.  For internet the options are:  1. Rock City: if they are allowing outside seating and if you buy a pizza you can get online.  2. Tracy's General Store:  decent internet, but you have to get there early since most know about it (don't forget to buy something so they'll give you the code) Warning:  Tracy's employees are not wearing masks.  Around the Ranch House in Castle Rock you can generally pick up the internet signal, no password required, I know that works with T-Mobile, not sure about Verizon.  Sometimes you can get on the internet outside the Visitors Center in Almo, again lots of people know about that, not sure if there are any restrictions due to COVID-19.