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Best area for new climbers

Original Post
Bobby H · · CA · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 3

Relatively new to both climbing and the bay area, and I'm trying to figure out where the best place is for a noob to set up a top rope that's semi-close to SF. Things that are important to me are: easy to moderate routes, a smaller crowd so I'm not in everyone's way, and while I'm comfortable setting up an anchor (I took some courses before I even considered doing this myself), bolts will make things easier. I've read a ton of pages on here for different areas but the hardest thing to parse is the second part, I'd rather not be in a huge group and feeling like I'm getting in the way of other climbers.

I used to drive up to Tollhouse and Squarenail from Fresno and that is pretty close to what I'm looking for, just a bit to far for a day trip for me.
Do any of you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance for any input.

Bobby H · · CA · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 3

Also (sorry for all the questions) if there is a guide service in the area that would be able to show me some places that fit the bill please feel free to point me in their direction. 

Brent Kelly · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 176
Bobby Hwrote: Also (sorry for all the questions) if there is a guide service in the area that would be able to show me some places that fit the bill please feel free to point me in their direction. 


https://www.mountainproject.com/route-finder?selectedIds=105733851&type=rock&diffMinrock=800&diffMinboulder=20000&diffMinaid=70000&diffMinice=30000&diffMinmixed=50000&diffMaxrock=3100&diffMaxboulder=20050&diffMaxaid=75260&diffMaxice=38500&diffMaxmixed=60000&is_sport_climb=1&is_top_rope=1&stars=0&pitches=1&sort1=rating&sort2=popularity+desc


The popular routes are popular for a reason, and you are more likely to experience “traffic congestion” around these routes, especially on weekends.

The low-rated, unpopular routes are also (usually) unpopular for a reason. Dangerous rock quality is the thing to be most cautious of. There are plenty of great, solid “1-star” options that are commonly overlooked and very worthwhile, and much more likely to offer a “private” climbing experience.

I have no personal experience hiring a guide in the bay area, but can all but guarantee that a google search for “AMGA Certified rock guide san francisco” will provide a bunch of worthwhile options.

Touchstone and Planet Granite are great local gym networks. Those professionals can absolutely point you to a reliable guide service and will almost certainly offer more palatable, targeted, conversational advice than an internet forum. 

There are options within SF and Oakland, but sustainable access and safety are essential considerations. Be extra judicious in trusting some of the pre-existing hardware, especially if you decide to explore the less popular terrain that sees infrequent traffic



 

Petch · · Lover's Leap, CA · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 255

Check out Lover’s Leap and the local guide service. One of the best beginner areas anywhere!


Loversleap.net

Gerald Adams · · Sacramento · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

 Cosumnes River Gorge ,Bucks Bar Road in El Dorado County is another  good choice for top rope. Showed up by myself once, & Warren Harding invited me to climb with him !

Bobby H · · CA · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 3

Brent, thanks for the thorough answer. I was hoping someone would just be like "go to Mt. Tam its always deserted" or something along those lines, but it looks like I'll have to do some recon trips and see what would work best. Once the gyms open back up I'll ask around there too. And Gerald, that place looks rad! Thanks!

Petch, thanks as well. I have a few tahoe trips planned this summer with non-climbing friends so that could work out great, appreciate the heads up!

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 29

Well, Mt. Tam is a good option. So is Cragmont, Ring Mountain, Sunset Rock, and Table Scraps/ Bubble/Far Side at Mt. St. Helena.

Bobby H · · CA · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 3

Thanks Split for the ideas, I hadn't looked into those spots much and I'll check them out.

Also just to throw this out there if anyone in the bay area needs a belay I'd be happy to provide one, it would be awesome just to meet some local climbers.

Bobby H · · CA · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 3

That sounds awesome.
I genuinely appreciate everyone's help, I'm super stoked now to check all these places out. 

Bobby H · · CA · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 3

Just saw this, thanks for the tip! That place looks really cool. 

Danny Herrera · · Sebastopol · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 562

not sure what covid has done to the place, but i have never seen another climber at aquarian, let alone climbing the waterfall wall. Mossy 5.9,10b,10d + some other harder lines. doubt anybody at skyline slabs or eagles nest.

BryanOC · · All over · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Bobby Hwrote: Things that are important to me are: easy to moderate routes, a smaller crowd so I'm not in everyone's way, and while I'm comfortable setting up an anchor (I took some courses before I even considered doing this myself), bolts will make things easier. I've read a ton of pages on here for different areas but the hardest thing to parse is the second part, I'd rather not be in a huge group and feeling like I'm getting in the way of other climbers.

Bobby,  you're not in anyone's way.  Yes, you will probably be slower than more experienced people, and that is ok.  You sound like a conscientious person, so when it's your turn to hang dog on the popular 5.6 route in  your area, it's your right to be there.  The people behind you gotta wait for their turn, just like how you waited to get on the route. 

Be courteous, be safe, and have fun.  

Bobby H · · CA · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 3

Danny, I hadn't even heard of those places yet, that's awesome and I appreciate the heads up!

And Bryan, thanks, I appreciate that as well. 

I need to make a post in the partners page, but if anyone reading this would be okay with a new climber tagging along on any bay area outings, please feel free to message me. I am eager to learn, wont flake out, can clean gear and follow up to 5.8, and can provide drinks and food and gas money or whatever else would make it worth letting me learn a thing of two. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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