Offsets/protection for Charlotte Dome?

Hey y’all I’m planning on climbing Charlotte Dome, South Face in a couple weeks and am looking for more beta on protection for the route. I have doubles from .3 - #4 BD, a few ball nuts, and a set of stoppers. Would anyone recommend offsets for this route or anything else? Also anyone climb this in July? Am I gonna be roasting in the sun or shade for most of the day? Thanks

Std. Rack is fine ... you will not roast but might get sun burn.

Cool thanks

A couple of tricams are quite useful for some of the pockets.
Leave camp with headlamps on, be flaking your rope as it gets light, and you'll be up 6-7 pitches before it starts getting warm and the breeze will be a godsend. It is in full sun all day. 

Thanks for the tips guys. 

Duke Mccrorywrote: Hey y’all I’m planning on climbing Charlotte Dome, South Face in a couple weeks and am looking for more beta on protection for the route. I have doubles from .3 - #4 BD, a few ball nuts, and a set of stoppers. Would anyone recommend offsets for this route or anything else? Also anyone climb this in July? Am I gonna be roasting in the sun or shade for most of the day? Thanks

fwiw, offsets are worthwhile for a lot of areas/climbs in the sierra.  my 'standard rack' usually runs doubles to #2 and a single #3 and at least one set of that is offsets to .75 - with a single rack i'll usually forego regular cams in favor the offsets...

no shade on that route, but you can still fry AND freeze on the same day!

single rack is sufficient.  we also brought and used C3’s.  down to #0 (purple).  

DMM offset nuts were placed frequently.  bring 10-14 slings.  

Did not have any offset cams, as we were using mostly totem.  but i didn’t see a need for them.

lmk if you want/need descent beta.  

have fun!!!  

You can leave the #4s at home.

We brought double cams to #3. Happy to have doubles on some pitches. I didn't place a single nut. Totems were nice for the runout pitch. Agree you don't need a #4. YMMV.

lose the ball nuts.  I had a 1.5x rack up to #3 and then some tricams and small/med nuts and it was perfect.  There's lots of sun exposure so bring a buff or a bandana or whatever to cover up.  SUCH a good route prepare to be astounded! Enjoy!

Thanks y'all! I'm pretty stoked on doing this and all the beta helps

Duke.... Start in the dark- find the correct start. 
Good luck. 

Descent is straight forward.  There is one section of maybe 50' where you can either downclimb or rap and if there's daylight, it's not hard to find the rap station. After that, it's just a simple hike down.  

By the way-- is charlotte dome open right now? i remember a couple weeks ago the road into the parking lot was closed.

Louie McConnellwrote: By the way-- is charlotte dome open right now? i remember a couple weeks ago the road into the parking lot was closed.

From the west or east?

Louie McConnellwrote: By the way-- is charlotte dome open right now? i remember a couple weeks ago the road into the parking lot was closed.

a few weeks ago the road was open from the onion valley side (east).

Jeremy R wrote: Bryan OC, is the descent tricky? The only route I've climbed on Charolette we rapped down, but from the top it looked like a pretty straight forward descent...is that not the case?

eyeball the descent from the ground.  make out the landmarks you gotta hit.  generally speaking, hit the summit, traverse some 4th class along the ridge, then follow the carins down until you hit the trees.  remember the silhouette of the mountain so you can get your bearings if you’re descending in the dark (which was our F-up).

if you finish in daylight, should be cake!

Last question for Charlotte Dome. In the Super Topo at pitch 7-11 there is an option for "Secor's Way" a left facing corner instead of the standard route. Anyone know if this is a well protected crack system or should I stick with the main route?

Just did Charlotte Dome over the weekend. I used both offsets a bit and the ball nuts often. But I'm sure I could've done without either. Thanks again for the beta