Mountain Project Logo

multi pitch 5.5- 5.6 in Yosemite?

Original Post
Alexey Zelditch · · San Jose · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,055

I got permits to Yosemite Park from now until August. Then started studying Sloan"s book and found no multi- pitch routes easier than 5.7.  But only   beautiful  and intimidating pictures of some 5.9+++
I am working on pyramid progression and be able to climb 5.7 only in September. Any suggestion? Maybe someone was able to see some pages and sketches from unpublished Comprehensive Yosemite Guidebook ? 

TaylorP · · Pump Haus, Sonora · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 50

Swan slab gully and Regular Route of Sunnyside Bench would be 2 good starting spots

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,738

Meadows for the summer!

But if you want a list of 5.5 - 5.6 multipitch in the Valley and Mt. Starr King:



Arrowhead Spire - South Arete    5.5 .    2 pitches
Cow - Center    5.5 R *    2
Mt. Starr King - Southeast Face    5.5 .    3
Penny Pinnacle - South Face    5.5 .    3
Church Tower - East Arete    5.5 .    5
Lower Brother - Southwest Arete - Right    5.5 .    6
Illilouette Face    5.5 R    9
Sunday Tree    5.6 .    2
Swan Slab Gully    5.6 *    3
Munginella    5.6 **    3
Grack - Center    5.6 ***    3
Spireview Point    5.6 .    3
Aquamist    5.6 .    5
Middle Cathedral Rock - Northwest Buttress    5.6 .    5
Pohono Pinnacle - North Face    5.6 *    6

Some of these ratings are "old school", like Middle Cathedral Rock - NW Buttress - it's actually 5.8 .
Are you injured?

Have fun,

Clint

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

Royal Arches is 5.7 with a single easy aid move. 

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

Clint covered it all!  We can lock the thread now.

Crotch Robbins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 307

I think there is another route on Pohono that fits the bill. Perhaps the rap route on the W face, or the NW corner. I'll have to check my old guide.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043

Gunsight between middle and lower cathedral rocks

El Cap Gulley

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,738

I have the Gunsight and El Cap Gully as 4th class, but it's a nebulous grade.
The Gunsight could easily be called 5.5 R.

Dave Olsen · · Channeled Scablands · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 10

Photo attempt

How do I post a photo again? had a list of easy climbs.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043


Clint Cumminswrote:
I have the Gunsight and El Cap Gully as 4th class, but it's a nebulous grade.
The Gunsight could easily be called 5.5 R.


OP didn't indicate 5th class, just multipitch below a certain level. But I agree, Gunsight was not the fun 4th class afternoon solo scramble I thought it would be. And El Cap Gulley has killed people so gto the OP, go have fun!

Julian Bigi · · Sunnyvale · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

I think this is the best post I've seen in a while. Thanks for the laugh Alexey! Hope to see you around sometime! The weather looks splitter! ;)

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,738
Fail Fallingwrote: OP didn't indicate 5th class, just multipitch below a certain level.

I was going by the thread title:  multi pitch 5.5- 5.6 in Yosemite?

But I agree, Gunsight was not the fun 4th class afternoon solo scramble I thought it would be. And El Cap Gulley has killed people so gto the OP, go have fun!

Alexey has been known to climb 5.11 ow, so I'm not sure if he's trolling or recovering from an injury.

Alexey Zelditch · · San Jose · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,055

Thank you all for recommendations . I am not trolling, but not injured ether. I got today senior life time pass and  thinking how to be  prepare mentally for slow down with climbing in the near future.  And the same time  try to make downfall   enjoyable.  I looked at recommended above   "Swan slab gully" and "Regular Route of Sunnyside Bench" and found that many climbers have a lot of adventures. Tick list for those climbs is interesting reading

Alexey Zelditch · · San Jose · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,055

Some of the most adventurous  excerpts from ticks  Swan Slab Gully
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/stats/105889783/swan-slab-gully

Oct 15, 2005 · Soloed it (tipsy)  Fucking Rad.
Jun 5, 2012 · Couldn't find this descent. Was forced to rap off natural anchors.
Oct 14, 2012 · free solo after some aid practice.
Mar 27, 2013 · This was the first multi-pitch my wife and I did without adult supervision
Jul 6, 2013 · Did approx first 1.2 pitches on TR
Aug 24, 2013 · First Trad lead ever! And lead all three pitches. Kinda ugly climbing. But fun nonetheless
Nov 23, 2013 · Took 8 people up it. Lol what a shitshow
May 18, 2015 ·  I linked 1&2, Andy finished on 3, probably off route. Clean. Started at dusk, finished after dark.
Sep 20, 2015  ... let me lead it so I could get comfortable with leading trad. hang dogged the shit out if it
Dec 4, 2016 · 1 pitch.  Was trying to get a removable anchor, but failed, ...First lead, then put in a gear piece for Penelope, third to rescue the rope...
Jul 5, 2018 · Solo. Amazon 3 pitch solo climb!
Sep 11, 2018 ·  Body belayed from top. Photo shoot after
Sep 14, 2018 · 1 pitch. Lead. Watched my follower dislocate his knee 15 feet up first pitch. Wedged his leg is the off width flake and slipped. Rope caught him but he torqued his leg bad.
Oct 24, 2018 · ... Beware of asshole free solo types with Euro trash music.
Nov 3, 2018 ·... Hardest moves are first 20 feet off ground...would deck if fell
Jul 11, 2019 · ...and run it outs to make it exciting
Feb 11, 2020 · 2 pitches. Solo. Free solo with gear. Set up TR solo for Aid crack.

Alexey Zelditch · · San Jose · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,055

Some of the most adventurous  excerpts from ticks Sunnyside-Bench
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/stats/106561511/sunnyside-bench-regular-route

Oct 29, 2012 ·  Misjudged the chimney line and had to retreat 60'. Used only 5 pieces the whole route aside from anchors. Terrible descent - 1 hour in the mud.
Sep 21, 2013 · Solo in a torrential downpour. Snowed on Half Dome...Straddled Yosemite Fall at the pools.
May 2, 2014 · Lead. With Mom!!
Aug 20, 2015 · Fun, took 12 people up!
May 26, 2016 · 2 pitches, rain and crazy day w falling log
Sep 10, 2016 ·  Scotty following with Rocky teaching Marissa how to climb (both tied to Scotty). Good times!
May 13, 2017 ·Rapped after pitch two, got stuck behind a slow threesome who went way off route
Jun 20, 2017 ·  led pitch 3, 5.5 crack variation, awesome. stopped short because I thought I was running out of gear, would have been fine roped up to continue the slabs because one move looked scary, didn't use much pro anyway
Jul 16, 2017 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Got lost on the third pitch. Climbed well off route and never found it again.
Jul 19, 2017 · Lead / Onsight. Dropped my phone off a cliff haha. pools on falls=epic
Aug 28, 2017 · .. Fun. Mina almost died of heatstroke.
Feb 18, 2018 ·  ran out last 50' of 3rd pitch due to lack of gear
Jun 2, 2018 · ... Despite getting offroute, he did great! Great views.
Jun 18, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Great view of Half Dome. Bad description to pools
Jul 1, 2018 ·.. Got super lost trying to find the route.
Oct 6, 2018 · ..we definitely took a wrong turn before the 3rd pitch. Ended up climbing a crazy 5.9 slab
Oct 15, 2018 ·.. Bailed off top of p2 after getting lost. Supposed to swing right after second to last tree of p2 to get to p3.
Mar 28, 2019 · ..  Trouble finding P3, descent took 1.5 hrs in the dark
Oct 15, 2019 · Solo. Solo with huge haul bag
Nov 13, 2019 · .. Rope got stuck so had to solo a pitch during rappel
Nov 16, 2019 · .. We did Erik Sloan’s guidebook doubling your rope method and regretted it.
Feb 14, 2020 · Follow. Almost died on the walk-off.

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

Alexey, those routes often invite gumbies

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

Haha I did Swan Slab Gully last year for the first time after climbing in the Valley for 20+ years. Did it as a party of 6, including two 9 year olds. Took a good 4-5 hours including lunch en route. Some free soloers lapped us like 3 times, but we weren't in any body else's way... somehow we stayed ahead of the next party underneath us!

Dave Olsen · · Channeled Scablands · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 10

From the Roper guide. Some Easy 5th with easy aid too.

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

El Cap Gully is amazing, but def 5.6 at the very end (sometimes there is fixed rope for that last pitch, def bring free shoes at least) ..... it's like 3.5 gunsights stacked on top of each other....Gunsight is sick but 5.5 R for sure (has had fixed ropes in the 5.5 sections for last 10 years or so).
Woot Woot! Erik
Rockclimbingyosemite.com
ps. Hey when's Clint's new book coming out? .....'meadoes for the summer' ....does that mean it's done? I hope!

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52
Erik Sloanwrote:ps. Hey when's Clint's new book coming out? .....'meadoes for the summer' ....does that mean it's done? I hope!

Not this book debate AGAIN! This is like debating Crag Dogs, Drones, Bolting Double Cross or Bears Reach...

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,257
Gumby Kingwrote:

Not this book debate AGAIN! This is like debating Crag Dogs, Drones, Bolting Double Cross or Bears Reach...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California Partners
Post a Reply to "multi pitch 5.5- 5.6 in Yosemite?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.