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Looking for locations to spend a night on a portaledge in socal

Original Post
jon butler · · Desert Hot Springs, CA · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

I recently got a portaledge and am looking to practice setup on a 2-3 pitch route and spend a night on it. The goal is to get systems dialed before jumping into larger climbs. I have been looking through the route finder and am having trouble finding routes that mention them being good to setup a ledge. Any help is appreciated.

Hunky Tony · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 12

Some additional info would be helpful...

  • Are you trying to set up a hanging anchor using gear or bolts? 
  • When you say "to get systems dialed" do you mean you'll be practicing hauling, jugging, aiding, etc.?
  • What grade range?
  • Do you want a short approach, overnight parking, easy walk-off? 
  • What area of southern CA are you located? EDIT: I see you are in LA

You have some options - but they all kind of vary depending on what exactly you're trying to do. I'd just make sure to not tie up any routes that people actually want to climb.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

Tunnel Crag is a good option.   

Mark Frumkin · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 52

I spent my first night on a portaledge at Stoney Point on the Jesus Wall. 

Hunky Tony · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 12

Rocky Peak has a 2 pitch aid line that goes at C1 and 5.7 (I might be wrong - it's been a while). 

jon butler · · Desert Hot Springs, CA · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0
Crag Hag wrote: Some additional info would be helpful...

  • Are you trying to set up a hanging anchor using gear or bolts? 
  • When you say "to get systems dialed" do you mean you'll be practicing hauling, jugging, aiding, etc.?
  • What grade range?
  • Do you want a short approach, overnight parking, easy walk-off? 
  • What area of southern CA are you located? EDIT: I see you are in LA

You have some options - but they all kind of vary depending on what exactly you're trying to do. I'd just make sure to not tie up any routes that people actually want to climb.

I would like to setup on bolts and gear to get the feeling of both. Yes getting my systems dialed means hauling, jugging, aiding, etc should have been more specific sorry. I haven't done a lot of aid climbing so A1/C1 would be preferred. I can climb up to 10d/11a. The approach doesn't matter unless its over 4-5 miles.

Tony Sartin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 476

Goof Proof Roof, Indian Head, Joshua Tree. Too hot up there, but if you started the hike at 7 or 8 in the evening and got the first pitch in by 11pm, great bivy under the roof. Finish at first light and get the hell out before it cooks.

Hunky Tony · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 12
jon butler wrote:

I would like to setup on bolts and gear to get the feeling of both. Yes getting my systems dialed means hauling, jugging, aiding, etc should have been more specific sorry. I haven't done a lot of aid climbing so A1/C1 would be preferred. I can climb up to 10d/11a. The approach doesn't matter unless its over 4-5 miles.

Sent you a PM with a list of aid routes/big wall areas near you to practice at. I'll also dig up some old guide books to see if they have more info and scan the pages since most of them aren't listed on MP.  Have fun!

Michael Hall · · Bay Area · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0
Hunky Tonywrote:

Sent you a PM with a list of aid routes/big wall areas near you to practice at. I'll also dig up some old guide books to see if they have more info and scan the pages since most of them aren't listed on MP.  Have fun!

Crag, Can you fire that info my way also if it's not to much trouble? I'm in the same boat. Looking to find multiple routes to aid practice on. I do frequent the bolt ladder at Stoney on Jesus Wall but would like to mix it up. Thanks in advance. 

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Like others have suggested, getting your aid/leading/hauling system dialed is different than learning to set up a ledge.  My buddy learned to set his up hanging from the rafters in his parent’s garage (we started young).  You can smooth out your aiding skills even at places like Mt. Rubidoux. While change overs and the like are a key skill, a lot of your speed and will come from learning to place gear efficiently, learning to test and trust it and then move up your aiders.  Obviously, doing this on full pitches is important, but even aiding 30 or 40 ft. sections will teach you alot.  If you want to figure out the whole hanging belay thing, you can even find a long one pitch route that sees little traffic and set up a belay part way up.  

x15x15 · · Use Ignore Button · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 280

My first portaledge party/ campout was the top rope wall at Horse Flats. I got the aid skills dialed in down Chilao and Alder Creek. There is a roof down in alder creek that is fun to aid, and set the portaledge up underneath.

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,640
Fat Dadwrote: Like others have suggested, getting your aid/leading/hauling system dialed is different than learning to set up a ledge.  My buddy learned to set his up hanging from the rafters in his parent’s garage (we started young).  You can smooth out your aiding skills even at places like Mt. Rubidoux. While change overs and the like are a key skill, a lot of your speed and will come from learning to place gear efficiently, learning to test and trust it and then move up your aiders.  Obviously, doing this on full pitches is important, but even aiding 30 or 40 ft. sections will teach you alot.  If you want to figure out the whole hanging belay thing, you can even find a long one pitch route that sees little traffic and set up a belay part way up.  

This.

Trying to tackle all disciplines needed in one climb is daunting.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,257

Woodson locals know but won’t tell.

Hunky Tony · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 12
Michael Hallwrote:

Crag, Can you fire that info my way also if it's not to much trouble? I'm in the same boat. Looking to find multiple routes to aid practice on. I do frequent the bolt ladder at Stoney on Jesus Wall but would like to mix it up. Thanks in advance. 

Sorry - I just saw this. Sending info your way!

Michael Hall · · Bay Area · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

I just saw it, I appreciate it, thanks!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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