Tahquitz Offwidths...General List

Farther left than miscalculation. HUGE dihedral. I’ll have to check the old guide.

EDIT: Munge Dihedral. 10a

Back side of le dente. 

Lou Cerutti wrote: Farther left than miscalculation. HUGE dihedral. I’ll have to check the old guide.

EDIT: Munge Dihedral. 10a

Back side of le dente. 

True. That does have an off width section near the top.

Does anyone have beta for crack sizes one would encounter on paisano overhang?

A couple of my buds and I are looking to build replica horizontal roof cracks.

I have read many mentions of "flaring" and "4-6 inches" but looking for more specifics from someone who has been on it.

Thanks!

Feeling groovy at Suicide. Just remembered that one.

Cole D wrote: Does anyone have beta for crack sizes one would encounter on paisano overhang?

A couple of my buds and I are looking to build replica horizontal roof cracks.

I have read many mentions of "flaring" and "4-6 inches" but looking for more specifics from someone who has been on it.

Thanks!

Reach out to Todd Gordon on FB. He'll give you the beta.

WadeM wrote:  Potentially moving to the area for summer

Have you not seen the posts?  The "locals" do not want outsiders coming in.  

Cole D wrote: Does anyone have beta for crack sizes one would encounter on paisano overhang?

A couple of my buds and I are looking to build replica horizontal roof cracks.

I have read many mentions of "flaring" and "4-6 inches" but looking for more specifics from someone who has been on it.

Thanks!

Why don't you find out for yourself and tell us how it goes up there?

Gumby the White wrote:

Why don't you find out for yourself and tell us how it goes up there?

Im currently not a 5.12 onsight climber. Or a 5.12 climber of any kind for that matter. I plan to replica train this. Plenty of folks have had success with that approach, so we’ll see. 

We collectively lament unsolicited spray. typically asking for beta and then getting beta is something we don’t. If I am able to climb this route, don’t worry, I won’t be ticking an onsight. I’ll tick pre rehearsed free rope free hand adrenaline hike. 
Really great post Gumby the white, keep up the solid work! 

Cole D wrote:

Im currently not a 5.12 onsight climber. Or a 5.12 climber of any kind for that matter. I plan to replica train this. Plenty of folks have had success with that approach, so we’ll see. 

We collectively lament unsolicited spray. typically asking for beta and then getting beta is something we don’t. If I am able to climb this route, don’t worry, I won’t ticking an onsight. I’ll tick pre rehearsed free rope free hand adrenaline hike. 
Really great post Gumby the white, keep up the solid work! 

Happy to help. If your going to work the moves and do not think you can onsite, why not just set up a TR and headpoint it? You can play with all the shiny trinkets on your harness and figure out the best spot for them to go!

Gumby the White wrote:

Happy to help. If your going to work the moves and do not think you can onsite, why not just set up a TR and headpoint it? You can play with all the shiny trinkets on your harness and figure out the best spot for them to go!

Not a bad point. Am also wanting to rely on my technique and fitness rather than just the shiny trinkets.

I also really like the game / process of getting really fit or overly fit for something and then hoping on it knowing it will be mostly a mental game after all the work. Plus the current climbing climate, plus the accessibility of a replica versus trips to suicide.

Cole D wrote:

Not a bad point. Am also wanting to rely on my technique and fitness rather than just the shiny trinkets.

Take a video when you solo it! that'd be badddddd assss

Gumby the White wrote:

Happy to help. If your going to work the moves and do not think you can onsite, why not just set up a TR and headpoint it? You can play with all the shiny trinkets on your harness and figure out the best spot for them to go!

Sorry to burst your bubble but Pisano isn't top-ropable.

Tradiban wrote:

Sorry to burst your bubble but Pisano isn't top-ropable.

Actually, it is topropeable, albeit a bit dicey... I went there with John Long, about 10 years after he led it on the first free ascent, and we setup a toprope on it after climbing Paisano Jam Crack. John has really big fists, and he just fist jammed his way out to the lip of the overhang without any problem. Turning the lip, however, was problematic, and when he came off his rope traveled inside the vertical part of the crack and he pendulumed into the wall at the start and hit so hard that I thought he broke both his legs! But he was fine, took a little breather, and proceeded to send it on his second try- without any tape on his hands by the way.

John first freed Paisano Overhang in 1973, arguably one of the first 5.12 leads in America!

Bob Gaines wrote:

Actually, it is topropeable, albeit a bit dicey... I went there with John Long, about 10 years after he led it on the first free ascent, and we setup a toprope on it after climbing Paisano Jam Crack. John has really big fists, and he just fist jammed his way out to the lip of the overhang without any problem. Turning the lip, however, was problematic, and when he came off his rope traveled inside the vertical part of the crack and he pendulumed into the wall at the start and hit so hard that I thought he broke both his legs! But he was fine, took a little breather, and proceeded to send it on his second try- without any tape on his hands up by the way.

John first freed Paisano Overhang in 1973, arguably one of the first 5.12 leads in America!

I'll bet that edge is a little sketchy on the rope too!

Iirc the lower section of Insomnia is a squeeze with off- fingers in deep. Good ow/squeeze counter pressure saves energy until grunting into the hands/lieback.

Me and my friend Jake have been projecting the paisano overhang for the last couple trips to Suicide. So far we were able to use 4s and 5s on the roof portion of the climb. Once you turn the lip you can put a big bro into the crack to protect the rope from going through the crack in the event you fall like John long did on his first attempt at freeing it. Once you turn the lip you can continue placing 4s most of the way up. The crack above paisano overhang is low angle and easier climbing. Once the crack runs out you have to do 10-20ft of unprotected slab climbing to the bolted anchor. The slab is low angle and heavily featured for an easy finish. 

I lost my OW virginity to Captain Hook at Suucide.