New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #11

Lori Milaswrote:

I'm searching for the mustard sticker... did I miss it? 

Look just to the left of the MP sticker. There's a packet of mustard taped to the window. LOL, Helen. 

Andrew Ricewrote:

Look just to the left of the MP sticker. There's a packet of mustard taped to the window. LOL, Helen. 

Very cool secret handshake!  Thanks. 

For Lori-

https://rockandice.com/videos/weekend-whippers/its-not-over-yet-epic-slab-fall/

ErikaNWwrote: For Lori-

https://rockandice.com/videos/weekend-whippers/its-not-over-yet-epic-slab-fall/

Oh, OUCH!  But what a beautiful route!  My boyfriend Dave Houser again... I really think we were destined.    

Lori Milaswrote:

Oh, OUCH!  But what a beautiful route!  My boyfriend Dave Houser again... I really think we were destined.    

Tony is gonna be jealous

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwainwrote: Tony is gonna be jealous

For that route Tony would have to let me go.    

But he doesn't need to worry.  Houser would not have given me a second look... he would have just left me in tears to flounder on my 5.4 routes. I would have been the geeky kid driving along with the hot guy in the cool yellow car.  

Happy Friday Over 50!  Here is a really quite boring, but not too long video of me training, that some people on lockdown might be bored enough to watch:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRjBZAhK-qg

This is the retaining wall I mentioned a few dozen pages ago.  I started out using epoxy glued on rocks for the feet, but the concrete block is so coarse that the rock and epoxy and some of the wall just peels off.  A few of the rocks have managed to stay on, but we supplemented the natural edges and rocks with screwed on wood blocks about 1.5 cm wide.  Even with the wood chips it's still a good forearm pump!  I'd rate the technical difficulty continuous 5.7-5.8?  For the hands, it's just the 90 degree edge of the top of the wall, which kind of tears the skin on my hands so I sometime wear a pair of gardening gloves.  I don't want to ruin my crack gloves on this!

I'll certainly continue to use this even when Lockdown ends.  It takes about 3 minutes to get from one end to the other and I'm already getting pumped by the end.  I used to boulder stuff harder than this at Stanford and stay on for 20 minutes, so it's just showing me how out of shape that aspect of my climbing has gotten.

phylp phylpwrote: Happy Friday Over 50!  Here is a really quite boring, but not too long video of me training, that some people on lockdown might be bored enough to watch:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRjBZAhK-qg

This is the retaining wall I mentioned a few dozen pages ago.  I started out using epoxy glued on rocks for the feet, but the concrete block is so coarse that the rock and epoxy and some of the wall just peels off.  A few of the rocks have managed to stay on, but we supplemented the natural edges and rocks with screwed on wood blocks about 1.5 cm wide.  Even with the wood chips it's still a good forearm pump!  I'd rate the technical difficulty continuous 5.7-5.8?  For the hands, it's just the 90 degree edge of the top of the wall, which kind of tears the skin on my hands so I sometime wear a pair of gardening gloves.  I don't want to ruin my crack gloves on this!

I'll certainly continue to use this even when Lockdown ends.  It takes about 3 minutes to get from one end to the other and I'm already getting pumped by the end.  I used to boulder stuff harder than this at Stanford and stay on for 20 minutes, so it's just showing me how out of shape that aspect of my climbing has gotten.

Very nice! Do you ramp it up to R or X when the shooting/archery range is going? Traverse is harder than up, somehow....

But I also heel hook the mattress to get out of bed some days.

Best, Helen

EDIT to add a pic for Carl!

Souvenir of my husband's, lol! 

Old lady Hwrote:

Very nice! Do you ramp it up to R or X when the shooting/archery range is going? 

LOL! Yes that would indeed deserve an x rating.

phylp phylpwrote: Happy Friday Over 50!  Here is a really quite boring, but not too long video of me training, that some people on lockdown might be bored enough to watch:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRjBZAhK-qg

This is the retaining wall I mentioned a few dozen pages ago.  I started out using epoxy glued on rocks for the feet, but the concrete block is so coarse that the rock and epoxy and some of the wall just peels off.  A few of the rocks have managed to stay on, but we supplemented the natural edges and rocks with screwed on wood blocks about 1.5 cm wide.  Even with the wood chips it's still a good forearm pump!  I'd rate the technical difficulty continuous 5.7-5.8?  For the hands, it's just the 90 degree edge of the top of the wall, which kind of tears the skin on my hands so I sometime wear a pair of gardening gloves.  I don't want to ruin my crack gloves on this!

I'll certainly continue to use this even when Lockdown ends.  It takes about 3 minutes to get from one end to the other and I'm already getting pumped by the end.  I used to boulder stuff harder than this at Stanford and stay on for 20 minutes, so it's just showing me how out of shape that aspect of my climbing has gotten.

Hey Phyl!  This is a great video!  Thank you for posting it.  Watching, I realized that upper wall may not be a positive hold... so you have good hand and arm strength!  

Watching your footwork coalesces perfectly for me with re-reading Gaines book Advanced Rock Climbing (all day yesterday).  Deciding when it's a toe-in on a micro-divet, or a side edge, heel up, heel down...   it takes a lot of time on the rock to learn this footwork.  You are so precise!

Just a few thoughts this morning on my new journey here.  (What are you all doing this month???)  

I've felt like a car with the clutch in neutral and foot on gas for too long.  Everything was closed (and mostly still is), now it's hot... and we've been moving and dealing with leaks and deliveries and ...

Last time I was out with Nelson he suggested we go scrambling instead of climbing.  I THINK he was making a polite observation, which I ignored... I wanted to climb.   Today, before it gets hot, I'll head out and re-start with some scrambling.  Suddenly I realize that there's LOTS to do to get healthy and strong, even with gyms closed.  Todd is out every day doing something... riding his bike. (Tony is looking at electric bikes... I'm thinking this could be a lot of fun.  Anyone have one?)

I'm also going to start a brand new climbing journal to keep track of not only routes climbed, but other exercise.  (Does anyone else keep a journal?)

Yesterday I pulled out all my ropes, rack... stuff that's been sitting there since last summer, and headed over to Nelson's house to start over from the beginning... he knows me pretty well and knows about how much information I can handle... he won't judge, laugh or call me out on ignorance.  We reviewed the quad and started with simple anchor on bolts.  We reviewed extensions.  We discussed biners in terms of 'crotch' and 'basket' so finally I could remember which goes which way.  We reviewed a guide book so I could understand how you know what to take on each route, and where the approach is... I also set up a rappel, but we decided to delay that switch-off process of leaving a belay and setting up the rappel.  We'll get back to it this week, just reviewing systems on the ground... meanwhile, I can go experiment in the Park on low lying rocks.  

Finally I'm learning HOW I learn... which is slow, repetitive, and when I know there's no judgement.  But also, it can't be used once a year.  All the gym climbing really sheltered me from having to ever build an anchor.  The amount of information on every aspect of climbing is overwhelming... this ain't bowling!  

It's amazing to be HERE.  I'm looking forward to heading out to Cosmic's place soon and climbing with him and his chicken, Gertrude... oh, I guess she's gone, but god knows who her replacement is.  Maybe I'll get a chance to practice my (should be copyrighted) "Chuckwalla Move" on a chimney somewhere.  I'm getting some wonderful time out with Brandt, who everyone seems to know and love around here. ("You need to get out with Brandt.  He's a great climber and really good people!")

Nomads is closed, but will do business through the door... so there's hope.  Crossroads Cafe is completely closed, and I'm not seeing any sign of life there and that would be a personal loss.  How many times I've been there when the entire staff would break out in song... for no good reason, and more than once, opera.    La Copine is back in business for takeout... so life is ok again.   Tony is starting to like 'fancy eatin' food'.      

Is anyone else climbing?  

This Bush was just a bunch of sticks a month ago and I wanted it gone. Oh my goodness it’s beautiful! 

That’s a lot Lori! Remember you can’t learn everything all at once - it takes time, repetition, practice. Stakes are high in climbing, consequences are serious. It is good you have mentoring and are breaking it down into smaller parts and on the ground.

I find the approaches and descents in J Tree to be really difficult and complex - so spending time scrambling seems like an excellent idea. It will definitely help your overall conditioning, plus it’s fun!

Yes, I keep a journal. Years of being a competitive athlete made that an ingrained habit, even though I’m no longer really training for events. For me it serves a couple of purposes - to track progress and let me know when I should be increasing training load/volume, and also to help me understand when I’m overtrained and need to rest. When I was competing I tracked all kinds of things - sleep, diet, resting HR, specific conditions during workouts, etc. Now it’s pretty rudimentary, I just make a note of what I did that day (i.e., climbed such and such area, # of pitches, grades, led or followed; lifted weights -exercise name, weight, reps, etc). I use the ticklist in MP also and sometimes make notes there to track specific routes. Journals/training logs are very helpful!

I‘ve been getting out a couple of times a week - chasing shade and avoiding crowds. Also hang boarding a couple days a week, doing circuit training, trail running and road cycling. My psychological health depends on staying active and being outside, so I do something every day.

It sounds like you are having a great adventure Lori. With that comes a degree of being outside your comfort zone - I admire you for taking the risk with moving, etc to pursue the life you want for yourself! And those flowers are gorgeous - I love desert plants.

Lori Milaswrote: Just a few thoughts this morning on my new journey here.  (What are you all doing this month???)  

I've felt like a car with the clutch in neutral and foot on gas for too long.  Everything was closed (and mostly still is), now it's hot... and we've been moving and dealing with leaks and deliveries and ...

Last time I was out with Nelson he suggested we go scrambling instead of climbing.  I THINK he was making a polite observation, which I ignored... I wanted to climb.   Today, before it gets hot, I'll head out and re-start with some scrambling.  Suddenly I realize that there's LOTS to do to get healthy and strong, even with gyms closed.  Todd is out every day doing something... riding his bike. (Tony is looking at electric bikes... I'm thinking this could be a lot of fun.  Anyone have one?)

I'm also going to start a brand new climbing journal to keep track of not only routes climbed, but other exercise.  (Does anyone else keep a journal?)

Yesterday I pulled out all my ropes, rack... stuff that's been sitting there since last summer, and headed over to Nelson's house to start over from the beginning... he knows me pretty well and knows about how much information I can handle... he won't judge, laugh or call me out on ignorance.  We reviewed the quad and started with simple anchor on bolts.  We reviewed extensions.  We discussed biners in terms of 'crotch' and 'basket' so finally I could remember which goes which way.  We reviewed a guide book so I could understand how you know what to take on each route, and where the approach is... I also set up a rappel, but we decided to delay that switch-off process of leaving a belay and setting up the rappel.  We'll get back to it this week, just reviewing systems on the ground... meanwhile, I can go experiment in the Park on low lying rocks.  

Finally I'm learning HOW I learn... which is slow, repetitive, and when I know there's no judgement.  But also, it can't be used once a year.  All the gym climbing really sheltered me from having to ever build an anchor.  The amount of information on every aspect of climbing is overwhelming... this ain't bowling!  

It's amazing to be HERE.  I'm looking forward to heading out to Cosmic's place soon and climbing with him and his chicken, Gertrude... oh, I guess she's gone, but god knows who her replacement is.  Maybe I'll get a chance to practice my (should be copyrighted) "Chuckwalla Move" on a chimney somewhere.  I'm getting some wonderful time out with Brandt, who everyone seems to know and love around here. ("You need to get out with Brandt.  He's a great climber and really good people!")

Nomads is closed, but will do business through the door... so there's hope.  Crossroads Cafe is completely closed, and I'm not seeing any sign of life there and that would be a personal loss.  How many times I've been there when the entire staff would break out in song... for no good reason, and more than once, opera.    La Copine is back in business for takeout... so life is ok again.   Tony is starting to like 'fancy eatin' food'.      

Is anyone else climbing?  

This Bush was just a bunch of sticks a month ago and I wanted it gone. Oh my goodness it’s beautiful!

Lori Milaswrote: (Tony is looking at electric bikes... I'm thinking this could be a lot of fun.  Anyone have one?)

Barb and I have E-bikes.  Poor Florida girl didn't know how to act around hills.  Things like gears and brakes where foreign concepts in the flat lands of Florida where she grew up. As a result our regular bikes just stayed out in the rain and didn't get used much.  We shopped for a couple of years trying various ones out.  We learned that each state has it's own laws on the definition of motor vehicles, motorized vehicles, and pedal assist bicycles.  California is pretty liberal about it while you can't ride e-bikes at all in Acadia National Park.  Towns and counties adopt local ordinances that prohibit their use in certain locations.  Oregon state parks has a rule that they can't be used on trails less than 54" (from memory so may not be exact) wide.  Real cyclists tend to hate them.  We have run across many that think they go real fast like a motorcycle and that the motor is the only thing that makes it go.  Not the case at all.

Barb got a Magnum UI5 in white. Nice ladies cruiser. I went with a hybrid mountain bike, the Peak.  They are pedal assist bikes, meaning that if you aren't peddling the motor is not running.  It only adds motor power when you drop below 13mph, like when you are climbing up a hill or fighting a head wind. We just changed the tires on Barb's, she was slipping on some single track mountain trail we were riding.  Our bike riding ability coincides with our rock climbing ability, we are not athletes by any stretch of the imagination. We often get passed on trails by real cyclists in their tight fitting clothes, shoes that clip to pedals, and expensive looking road bikes.  

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwainwrote:

Oh god. You choked the chicken!    

Erika... did I/we miss your competitive history?  Can you share what you were up to before (and now)?

I’m coming off a bit of a high here this morning. Spent time just being out and decided to go check out a route I’ve been looking at from a distance for a long time.  Does anyone know it?  The closer I got the bigger the boulders and crevices and snug places for rattlesnakes.  There’s no way to poke under every single rock!  But got right up to it and just went WOW.  This one is mine.

​
Turned around to find my way back and GEEZ... what the heck is THIS?  Had to go do some inspection. Another beautiful wall.  Took a look at possible ways to scramble up to set a tr anchor... I think this one has to be lead. 

Can't quite identify those photos. Can you give a hint? General location in the Park, where you starting hiking from to get there, etc.?

Dallas, e bikes have changed a lot, but yes, I'm one of the cyclists who dislikes some ebike RIDERS. Problem is, they allow anyone to ride....a plus, yes, except it's also a major minus when people don't know how to handle a bike, or even common courtesy. If those folks are putzing along on a regular bike, maybe rented, fine. But able to go faster than everyone else? Sometimes lots faster? That's what bugs me. Still better than extendable leashes going all the way across the greenbelt...

Here, we also have bikes people have fit little gas engines on. They really are a menace.

My bike is an old hybrid thing, which means not efficient at anything. My just traveling from point A to point B speed is less than your 13mph. That means I'd pretty much never get the exercise I want, lol! (Yes, I understand you still pedal)

Those speeds that real riders get? The only time my bike ever got that fast, was sitting in the bed of my pickup. Some lady bike racers here, including our fellow forum member BITD when we had a major race in southern Idaho, rocketed down long grades on the road races at 50mph+, unless I'm misremembering. And in a pack, too! I'm guessing bike tech is even faster, now.

Okay, so climbing log, I tick stuff on MP for outside. Not everything, and sometimes not even a "send" by MP standards, if I wanted to note something else (usually who I climbed with). For the gym, I've just been recording date and grades. So, for instance, "3/10 5.7 5.8 5.7 5.9 5.7 5.5 5.5". I figure I can dump those in an excell sheet or something down the road, if I want. 

For general fitness? Kinda embarrassing, but I've gone back to kindergarten. The hardest part of this, for me, is just getting going, at all. With the calendar right there staring at me? That helps with motivating. The glaring omission on here is strength training. But, I can remind myself, at a glance, that I'm doing SOMETHING at least...

Pic is from late May. Climbing, cardio, walking, gardening are dino stickers. Blue gems are 10,000 steps per the Fitbit. Gold gems will be strength training. Didn't have those in March, lol! That's the hardest, on my own. But, I'm holding my own just being active.

I doubt I'll ever keep detailed track of any of this. I'm just not very good at that. Not the notes and journals type.

EDIT to add, I can log my rowing online! Even be on a leaderboard, for set lengths or times. Next to last for my age, but hey, it should encourage others at least, lol!

EDIT 2, anyone know an easy to use app for gym climbing?

Best, Helen

Dallas Rwrote: Barb and I have E-bikes.  Poor Florida girl didn't know how to act around hills.  Things like gears and brakes where foreign concepts in the flat lands of Florida where she grew up. As a result our regular bikes just stayed out in the rain and didn't get used much.  We shopped for a couple of years trying various ones out.  We learned that each state has it's own laws on the definition of motor vehicles, motorized vehicles, and pedal assist bicycles.  California is pretty liberal about it while you can't ride e-bikes at all in Acadia National Park.  Towns and counties adopt local ordinances that prohibit their use in certain locations.  Oregon state parks has a rule that they can't be used on trails less than 54" (from memory so may not be exact) wide.  Real cyclists tend to hate them.  We have run across many that think they go real fast like a motorcycle and that the motor is the only thing that makes it go.  Not the case at all.

Barb got a Magnum UI5 in white. Nice ladies cruiser. I went with a hybrid mountain bike, the Peak.  They are pedal assist bikes, meaning that if you aren't peddling the motor is not running.  It only adds motor power when you drop below 13mph, like when you are climbing up a hill or fighting a head wind. We just changed the tires on Barb's, she was slipping on some single track mountain trail we were riding.  Our bike riding ability coincides with our rock climbing ability, we are not athletes by any stretch of the imagination. We often get passed on trails by real cyclists in their tight fitting clothes, shoes that clip to pedals, and expensive looking road bikes.  

A couple of comments about E-bikes.  Three years ago our mountain bike club debated whether e-bikes should be allowed on the single track trails.  The matter was settled when Dr. Dave commented, "think smart guys, what do you think we'll all be riding in 15 or 20 years".  Since then some of the guys now occasionally ride e-bikes on our single track outings, we have noted absolutely no additional trail damage/erosion from the bikes. 

Last year my partner Sheree and I rode EuroVelo 6 across France from the Rhine River to the Atlantic Ocean, about 1500km.  There are charging stations for e-bikes along the route and my count indicated 25-50% of riders were on e-bikes.  Saw quite a few riders who probably would not have been riding otherwise.  While originally I was skeptical of e-bikes, I now think they are great in that there are now more bikers. Since Europe is WAY ahead of the US in everything biking, it might be smart to follow their lead.

Lori Milaswrote: Erika... did I/we miss your competitive history?  Can you share what you were up to before (and now)?

Lori - posting this to answer your question - it's probably a little too personal honestly, and definitely not climbing related!

I raced bicycles (road and track) all over the country from ~1990 - 2000. I rode Individual Pursuit - 3km against the clock (1998 30-34 National Champion, top 10 Elite) and Points Race (mass start, sprint for points every 2km, ~20-25 km race, most points at the end wins). My most proud moment was helping my teammate win the Elite National Championships by 1 point in 1997. People often don't realize how much of a team sport cycling is. Here are a couple of pursuit photos - 1998 and 2000 I believe.

On the road I did well regionally (Rocky Mtn Region Rider of the Year in 1999, multiple Colorado state championships) and was more of a middle of the pack rider at the National level. Posting a couple of photos from the web of the 2000 Idaho Women's Challenge which was the premiere women's event worldwide for many years (I'm in there somewhere!) - in 2000 it was a 13 day stage race. 2000 was a really tough race since most of the European teams were using it for Olympic Selection. I was definitely pack fodder, but my team got a couple of podiums that I helped earn. It was always an accomplishment to make page 1 of the results sheet on a stage (that would be top 35 or so). This is the event Helen referred to - I rode it in 1993, 1997 and 2000. It was an honor to compete there since it was by invitation only.

Racing at that level was a full-time job. I trained 25-30 hours/week and spent the rest of the time consuming every calorie I could get my hands on, resting, and working part-time to make ends meet. I was fortunate to be able to earn enough through sponsors and prize money to cover most of my race-related expenses. The last couple of years it really was more work than fun, and I was always either on the verge of being sick, sick, or recovering from being sick. Honestly, I am way healthier now (and according to my husband much less crazy!!)

One thing I love about climbing is that it is completely non-competitive for me. I still 'train' - but it is more for injury-prevention and to stay fit/sane more than for performance benefit. If I don't feel like doing something or it isn't fun/enjoyable, I don't do it. It's kind of liberating.

And yes, I am spending WAY too much time on the internet today!!