Bolt removal tools - resources, tips, how-to videos

Drew Nevius wrote:

...I also wouldn’t fix it to the chuck adapter. I’ve found it helpful to have a “strike bolt” that screws into the coupler so I can put it on the wedge bolt, hit the strike bolt with the hammer to unseat the clip, the swap the chuck adapter on and spin. I have better luck with that than using the drill’s hammer mode

Thanks, and good tips!  I wasn't going to fix it to the chuck adapter so that I can use the coupler to connect to the puller, but I like the idea of a "strike bolt"!

Bruce Hildenbrand wrote: I would add more Loctite to make sure the insert doesn't come loose.  I had one back out on me and it wasn't good(I always carry a spare spinner tool in case this happens).  Also.  there is a bit of a debate on how deep the insert threads should be which screw onto the stud.  Sometimes I just screw the threads all the way down on the bare stud and hope there are enough threads on the stud to bottom it out.  Other times I put a nut on the stud first and use that in opposition with the coupler nut to lock it all up for spinning.

Perfect, thanks - I'll add more.

Is there any reason NOT to shorten the coupler?  Or is it just more work?  I like the idea of adding a nut on the stud to lock it down for spinning.  I'm guessing that shortening the coupler makes it more likely that the stud bottoms out against the chuck, meaning you don't need the lock nut.  Would that be beneficial as one less step?

Rich - nice work.

• Yup - the hacksaw method is slow. A fiber cut-off wheel on a drill can work, but that can be a little dangerous and imprecise.
• The aluminum end cap idea obviates the diagonal screw and the folded-back ends. Making the end cap still requires a couple of cuts and a 3/4" hole thru aluminum.
• retaining clip - found at Jax Mercantile. They are kinda' weak in that job, tho. The updated drawing at RDB Bearing in China has M9 x 1.5 threads instead for all future orders.
• coupling nut - I shorten mine, but it's not necessary. It does remove the need for an internal set screw and it makes the kit a few grams lighter.

Rich Farnham wrote: Perfect, thanks - I'll add more.

Is there any reason NOT to shorten the coupler?  Or is it just more work?  I like the idea of adding a nut on the stud to lock it down for spinning.  I'm guessing that shortening the coupler makes it more likely that the stud bottoms out against the chuck, meaning you don't need the lock nut.  Would that be beneficial as one less step?

Shortening it could be helpful. More than that, it’s helpful to have a set screw that is essentially a 3/8-16 threaded piece that screws into the spinner so the wedge bolt has something to bottom out against inside the spinner. Otherwise the spinner tool will screw down until it touches the rock, making it difficult or impossible to spin. You only want to tool to be able to thread about 3/8” deep into the stud. Many wegebolts may not be sticking far enough out of the rock to have 3/8” for the spinner, 1/4” for the nut mentioned above, and a 1/4” for tapping the bolt in to disengage the clip

Gregger Man wrote:Rich - nice work.

• Yup - the hacksaw method is slow. A fiber cut-off wheel on a drill can work, but that can be a little dangerous and imprecise.
• The aluminum end cap idea obviates the diagonal screw and the folded-back ends. Making the end cap still requires a couple of cuts and a 3/4" hole thru aluminum.
• retaining clip - found at Jax Mercantile. They are kinda' weak in that job, tho. The updated drawing at RDB Bearing in China has M9 x 1.5 threads instead for all future orders.
• coupling nut - I shorten mine, but it's not necessary. It does remove the need for an internal set screw and it makes the kit a few grams lighter.

Thanks!  It was a fun challenge.

Do you think I could cut threads on the end of the ball screw where the retaining clip is?  I'm thinking the shoulder would prevent me from getting the die far enough to cut full threads?  Also don't know anything about that metal - could it be cut with a standard die, or is it too hard?

The metal is harder. You can start the die in the normal direction and then flip it over so that the exit threads lead the way once you bottom out- that way you'll get closer to that shoulder. It's 10mm so a 3/8-16 die should work. A 7/16 die might take the edge off and make it easier to start, otherwise you might need to hand-chamfer it to get the die started.

Gregger Man wrote:

1. ReNu-threaded insert with 3/8-16 internal, 1/2-20 external from Northwestern Tools.  (http://www.northwesterntools.com/product_info.php/model_number/29115). You can buy in bulk from their Ebay store at a great discount if you are making multiples. I always carry two complete spinner tools in my kit.

I'm seeing 29110 as the correct PN for the 1/2-20 to 3/8-16 insert on their site

Also available through their Amazon store

Nick Drake wrote:

I'm seeing 29110 as the correct PN for the 1/2-20 to 3/8-16 insert on their site

Also available through their Amazon store

Nice catch. I corrected the link in the first post. 

You can also make a spinner tool using a more common threaded insert from EZ Lok - but to install it you have to use a 9/16-12 tap on the 1/2-20 coupling nut. A little more work, but the parts are available locally.
https://www.ezlok.com/ezlok-insert-329-6IC

Has anyone tried making an attaching method and spacer to pull out buttonheads/split drives with the doodad? 

I made this - 2" x 3" x 9" aluminum with an 1/8" wall. Capped it with some 3/8" aluminum held in place with duct tape. Drill a hole and add some thrust bearings. The harder part is shaping the end piece. I think this is a 3/4" coupling nut (need to check) - it fit a 1/2-20 ID insert from Northwestern Tool IIRC. Instead of using this as a stand-alone Hurley, Sr. type device, I guess I could use a 1/2-20 coupling nut and pull with the Doodad, but at that point you're cranking on the lever nearly 2' out from the wall and you're likely to drop something.
This 1/2-20 all thread is ok, but not as durable as a ball screw. It will break a bolt, so it should be strong enough for most applications. Let me know if you want to see more photos or measurements.
(edit to add): I used *two* Northwestern ReNu threaded inserts nested together to get from 1/2-20 to 5/8-18 to 3/4-16. The coupling nut is just a heavy duty 3/4-16 

Hey Greg, I’m having a hard time visualizing how this tool works.  You’re just attaching it to a hanger with the socket head cap screw through the carabiner hole and pulling it up through the body of the 2”x3” box tubing?  

Yup. The stretch of the hanger means you need a lot of travel. 

Gregger Man wrote: I made this - 2" x 3" x 9" aluminum with an 1/8" wall. Capped it with some 3/8" aluminum held in place with duct tape. Drill a hole and add some thrust bearings. The harder part is shaping the end piece. I think this is a 3/4" coupling nut (need to check) - it fit a 1/2-20 ID insert from Northwestern Tool IIRC. Instead of using this as a stand-alone Hurley, Sr. type device, I guess I could use a 1/2-20 coupling nut and pull with the Doodad, but at that point you're cranking on the lever nearly 2' out from the wall and you're likely to drop something.
This 1/2-20 all thread is ok, but not as durable as a ball screw. It will break a bolt, so it should be strong enough for most applications. Let me know if you want to see more photos or measurements.
(edit to add): I used *two* Northwestern ReNu threaded inserts nested together to get from 1/2-20 to 5/8-18 to 3/4-16. The coupling nut is just a heavy duty 3/4-16

Could you do something similar with a threaded eye bolt like this one and a quicklink? I was trying to think of a good way to attach the doodad to some of the more rusted drilled angles I've come across. Could save some energy normally spent wailing on them with the hammer. 

john collis wrote:

Could you do something similar with a threaded eye bolt like this one and a quicklink? I was trying to think of a good way to attach the doodad to some of the more rusted drilled angles I've come across. Could save some energy normally spent wailing on them with the hammer. 

Look into a Clevis Rod End - You can use with threaded rod and it solves the linkage issue.  I haven't made one but ran into these when think about building a bolt tester.

​Clevis Rod End​​​

mattm wrote:

Look into a Clevis Rod End - You can use with threaded rod and it solves the linkage issue.  I haven't made one but ran into these when think about building a bolt tester.

Clevis Rod End

That can work. The only non-optimal thing is the overall length - it forces you to use an even longer spacer tube. You already need a lot of travel to account for the bending and stretching of the hanger.

https://www.newegg.com/p/2ZK-00DN-01SJ1   any reason you cant just use these with a 3/8 coupling nut to make a spinner tool? 

If you find fine thread couple nut then you need insert to reduce to 3/8-16 on the other end. Those cheap ones should work fine.

If they made a 3/8-16 threaded SDS adapter it would make life much easier. Getting from fine thread to coarse is the issue.

Gregger Man wrote: If they made a 3/8-16 threaded SDS adapter it would make life much easier. Getting from fine thread to coarse is the issue.

McMaster does make coupling adapters for pretty much all combinations of diameter and thread pitch. They aren’t cheap (relatively speaking) though, especially if you go from inch to metric.

https://www.mcmaster.com/coupling-nut-thread-adapters/inch-to-inch-female-hex-thread-adapters/

Taka Kondo wrote:

McMaster does make coupling adapters for pretty much all combinations of diameter and thread pitch. They aren’t cheap (relatively speaking) though, especially if you go from inch to metric.

https://www.mcmaster.com/coupling-nut-thread-adapters/inch-to-inch-female-hex-thread-adapters/

Good to know. I thought I had done an exhaustive search for them years ago with no luck. Price is a little high compared to making 100 at a time with from standard coupling nuts and inserts, but it's still a relatively cheap part. Thanks for finding that!