BD #7 and #8???

Garry R wrote: I know I'm in the minority here but I find if I hang the big stuff off of a shoulder sling it's easier to manage and less likely to get in the way.

I always rack anything bigger than a #3.5 on a sling while offwidth climbing. This way my legs have more freedom of movement and I can easily swap the gear to the opposite shoulder if I need to change sides. The big secret is that you don't have to pass the rack in front of you (too cluttered and risking tangles). Instead pass it around your back, while it temporarily chokes you. Put the other arm in and you're done! Odd I've never seen anyone else do it that way, more should try it, I'm sure some would like it.

With these BD #7 and #8 becoming readily available (and also because they are so much wider), figuring out a racking system will be really important for people beginning the venture into this realm, otherwise they'll be realizing they hate big cams and we'll for sure be seeing these up for sale "lightly used."

Evan Wisheropp wrote:

I always rack anything bigger than a #3.5 on a sling while offwidth climbing. This way my legs have more freedom of movement and I can easily swap the gear to the opposite shoulder if I need to change sides. The big secret is that you don't have to pass the rack in front of you (too cluttered and risking tangles). Instead pass it around your back, while it temporarily chokes you. Put the other arm in and you're done! Odd I've never seen anyone else do it that way, more should try it, I'm sure some would like it.

With these BD #7 and #8 becoming readily available (and also because they are so much wider), figuring out a racking system will be really important for people beginning the venture into this realm, otherwise they'll be realizing they hate big cams and we'll for sure be seeing these up for sale "lightly used."

I think every person that buys an #7 or #8 should be forced to climb Crack of Fear on the Owl. So I can see how its done.

7's are out of stock now. I'll be curious to see if/when they run another batch.

Robert Rowsam wrote: 7's are out of stock now. I'll be curious to see if/when they run another batch.

Says in stock now so they must have had another batch waiting

Justin Sanger wrote:

Says in stock now so they must have had another batch waiting

7's are out of stock, they have 54 #8's left as of today. 

#7 screenshot top, bottom, #8 screenshot. 

I picked up a #7 - damn it's heavy...

Artem Vasilyev wrote: While I like the idea of owning these cams because they look cool... I can't think of a route I would bring them on. What are some classic OWs in the PNW or Yose that these would protect? 

Squamish has Pipeline, 10d. Not sure what's out there for the states... 

Artem Vasilyev wrote: While I like the idea of owning these cams because they look cool... I can't think of a route I would bring them on. What are some classic OWs in the PNW or Yose that these would protect? 

Admittedly my Yosemite ow experience amounts to little more than top roping generator, but aren’t there lots of offwidth cracks at yose? Many in the 1-3 pitch range where you may consider bringing a ludicrously heavy cam to stitch it up a bit? 

I don’t think these cams will cause cpof folks to line up at twilight zone, but there may be a few more people wiggling up the wide when the cracks are opened up again.
Maybe not. Perhaps we have already seen “peak wide”. Next up for in vogue climbing ____?
Run out slab?

Better than bongs. Easier to walk up. 

Forgot I had this saved as well

​Yosemite OW@ Wide Fetish​​​

Yosemite wide list, make you own circuit:

Sawyer Crack, 5.9Cool Cliff 170, 5.8A Desparate Kneed, 5.11a, *Narrow Escape, 5.10cAnticipation, 5.11b, **Entrance Exam, 5.9, *English Breakfast Crack, 5.10c, *Midterm, 5.10b, ***Leanie Meanie, 5.11b, ***Gripper, 5.10b, ***New Dimensions, 5.11a, ***GRE, 5.11Skateaway, 5.10aThe Bin, 5.10d, *Kindergarten Crack, 5.8Extra Credit, 5.10dJuliette's Flake Left Side, 5.8Juliette's Flake Right Side, 4Stealth Technology, 5.11aFist Puppet, 5.11aPandora's Box, 5.10aJaw Bone, 5.10a, *Northwest Corner, 5.7, A2, *A la Moana, 5.11aTwinkie, 5.10cBanana Dreams, 5.10aElevator Shaft, 5.8, *Twilight Zone, 5.10d, **The Cookie Left Side, 5.10aThe Cookie Center, 5.9, *The Cookie Right Side, 5.9, **Vendetta, 5.10b, *The Cleft, 5.9, *The Enigma, 5.10a, **Shortcake, 5.11b, ***Prime Time, 5.9Jack Pinnacle Left, 5.9Jack Pinnacle Right, 5.7Gilligan's Chicken, 5.7Flary Tails, 5.10aEraser Head, 5.10dFree Press, 5.10aThe Gerbil Launcher, 5.10dJust Scraping By, 5.8On The Spot, 5.11bCascade Crack, 5.10bWeird Scenes in the Gold Mine, 5.10aPseudo Desperation, 5.7Whim, 5.9This and That, 5.10aGenerator Crack, 5.10c, *Chimney for Two, 5.6Knob Hill Rapist, 5.8Trix, 5.11aBlock Horror Picture Show, 5.9Dromedary, 5.8+Owl Roof, 5.12cWalrus, 5.9Mongolian Clusterfuck, 5.10aSiberian Swarm Screw, 5.10aHand Job, 5.10aGoldrush, 5.11bChingando, 5.10aRemnant Left, 5.10bRemnant Right, 5.7Reed's Pinnacle Left, 5.10aBong's Away Center, 5.10aFlatus, 5.9, *Independent Route, 5.10b, *Independence Pinnacle Center Route, 5.10d, *Steppin' Out, 5.10d, **Cro-Magnon Capers, 5.11b, *Copper Penny, 5.10a, *The Reception, 5.10aInner Reaches, 5.7Wild Turkey, 5.10c, *Squeeze-n-Tease, 5.8The Riddler, 5.10a, *Silent Line, 5.10, A1Fool's Gold, 5.10aThin Line, 5.11cRibbon Candy, 5.11c, **Chockstone Chimney, 5.9The Lionheart, 5.10bNottingham, 5.10aThe Hourglass Left, 5.11aThe Hourglass Right, 5.10aPeter Pan, 5.9+Peter Left, 5.10c, *Wendy, 5.9The Slack Left, 5.10bThe Slack Center Route, 5.10dSacherer Cracker, 5.10a, ***La Cosita Left, 5.7Little John Left, 5.8Moby Dick Left, 5.9, *Moby Dick Center, 5.10a, ***Moby Dick Ahab, 5.10b, *The Gollum Left Side, 5.10aEast Buttress of El Capitan, 5.10b, **Orange Juice Avenue, 5.10aLoggerhead Ledge Route, 5.7Mr. Happy, 5.10aSow Sow Sow, 5.10aThe Silent Freeway, 5.10c, *After Five, 5.7Elusion (known as "The Illusion"), 5.10dCommissioner Buttress, 5.9, *Split Pinnacle East Arete, 5.10c, (or 5.8 A1+), **Absolutely Free Left, 5.9Absolutely Free Center, 5.9, **Absolutely Free Right, 5.10aRixon's Pinnacle East Chimney, 5.10a, *Wild Thing, 5.10cThe Good Book, 5.10d, ***Edge of Night, 5.10c, *Secret Storm, 5.10a, *Tweedle Dee, 5.8Doggie Do, 5.10aDoggie Deviations, 5.9, *The Buttocks, 5.9Henley Quits, 5.10a, **Cid's Embrace, 5.8, *Lancelot, 5.9, *Fallout, 5.10cJolly Green Giant, 5.9The Girl Next Door Left Side, 5.10The Girl Next Door Right Side, 5.10aGalloping Consumption, 5.11a, *Selaginella, 5.8Pygmy Pillar, 5.7Freestone, 5.11c, ***Geek Tower Center Route, 5.10aGeek Tower Right Side, 5.10a, A2Lost Arrow Chimney, 5.10aYosemite Point Buttress, 5.9Uncle Fanny, 5.7, *Aunt Fanny's Pantry, 5.4, *Church Bowl Chimney, 5.6, *Church Bowl Terrace, 5.8Trial By Fire, 5.810.96, 5.10d, **Space Invaders, 5.12aBad Ass Momma, 5.11d, *Power Failure, 5.11a, **Jesu Joy, 5.10c, *Jojo, 5.10b, **Tom Cat, 5.10bAstroman, 5.11c, ***North Dome West Side Route, 5.8North Dome South Face Route, 5.7, *Basket Case, 5.11bStraight Jacket, 5.10dYaSoo Dome South Face, 5.9Final Exam, 5.10d, ***On The Edge, 5.11b, *Call of the Wild, 5.10dHappy Gully, 5.8Dark Shadows, 5.10aFresh Squeezed, 5.10aMilk Dud, 5.10aSteck-Salathe, 5.9Tilted Mitten Left Side, 5.9Tilted Mitten Right Side, 5.8Mental Block, 5.10c, **The Sphinxter, 5.9Yin-Yang, 5.10d, **King Tut's Tomb, 5.10bBuried Treasure, 5.11a, A0, *Realm of the Lizard King, 5.11cLost Brother Northwest Face Route, 5.10cThe Syllable, 5.8Book of Job, 5.10b, *Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock, 5.9Power Point, 5.11c, **The Crucifix, 5.12b, ***The Affliction, 5.11d, A0, **Alley Cat, 5.10aEast Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock, 5.10c, ***Central Pillar of Frenzy, 5.10d, ***Direct North Buttress, 5.10b, ***Bridalveil East, 5.10c, **Yellow Corner, 5.12a, **Barefoot Servants, 5.10cThe Chosen Few, 5.9Local Motion, 5.11d, A1, *Windjammer, 5.10c, **Overdrive, 5.11a, *Pulpit Pooper, 5.10b, *The Sermon, 5.10b, **Cream, 5.11a, **Jam Session, 5.10b, *Emotional Wreckage, 5.11b, *Reality Check, 5.10c, *Plumb Line, 5.10d, *Trundling Juan, 5.10b, *Foaming at the Crotch, 5.10aLost Error, 5.10aWorst Error Left Side, 5.9, *Hotline, 5.12a, ***Fatal Mistake, 5.11a, A1, ***Pink Dream, 5.10a, ***Worst Error Right Side, 5.10a, *Crack of Doom, 5.10a, *Crack of Despair, 5.10a, *Crack of Deliverance, 5.9Elephant's Eliminate, 5.12d

Seems like the next batch should be hitting the BD store soon.

Anyone have some info?

While inspecting my cams the other day I noticed something weird about my #8. it seems one of the rivets has popped off the end of the trigger wire. This can cause the trigger wire to come completely detached from the lobe and make it non retractable. I have emailed BD about this and am waiting for a reply. The sad thing is that due to Covid-19 I never even got to place her! 

 Check your cams everyone! 

Cam locked closed with the trigger wire detached. 

A properly riveted trigger wire stud

The trigger wire stud in question with the missing rivet. 

BD will make that right but that is troubling. 

Thanks for the heads up - checking my #7 now

Rob Dwrote:

BD will make that right but that is troubling. 

Troubling for sure! I have no questions that BD will make it right, I just hope it's a replacement and not a credit. 

UPDATE:

While doing laundry tonight I actually found the rivet! I guess washer would be the correct term as it's just a press fit ring. I believe a hard tap on the end of the trigger wire stud would duplicate the problem I have. 

Cairn War Machinewrote:

I believe a hard tap on the end of the trigger wire stud would duplicate the problem I have. 

It's not like anyone's climbing anything in a tight squeeze with these things or anything.

Marc Hwrote:

It's not like anyone's climbing anything in a tight squeeze with these things or anything.

Definitely not, climbers always Gaston or layback spots where you have to squeeze in! We're not cavers dammit! 

Bomber!

i noticed bd has removed the 7/8 from there website 

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/camalotc4-BD263105_cfg.html#cgid=protection&start=3

wonder if thats related to your problem...

It was an April fools product after all!