CO snow climbs ticklist

If you do decide to a few other routes on Longs, Cables is a good intro to the logistics of the mountain, and it really is handy knowing where the bolts are for rapping off. Not fun to find those without being there before in shitty weather.

Right next to Sneffels is Gilpin Peak.  The narrow and direct snow line that leads directly to the summit is the best snow climb I've done in Colorado.  It's steep, near the top really steep, and often has a short vertical cornice that you need to either get around, through, or over.

A few thoughts, in case they're useful:
1.  second half of May could be early for some of the routes on your list.  We had a fairly good winter for snow, and there has even been some recent highcountry fresh snow falling even last week.  Some of the steep stuff (Skywalker, Dead Dog, Dragon's Tail, Pacific Peak, Dreamweaver, Notch) could still be sloughing off snow in May or will still have big cornices.  As suggested above, you may want to have a dream ticklist and a backup ticklist with some more moderate routes or ones that tend to be consistently in shape early (e.g. you could add Dragon's Egg Couloir on Meeker to such a list, for example, though it is definitely more mellow than you're looking for ideally).

2. you might consider flotation for some of the approaches.  I remember many a trip in May and June spent postholing through deep shaded snow in the trees (only to be hailed on as soon I got to the climbs, but that's just how May/June goes sometimes).

3.  Do you ski?  If so, some of the less narrow/technical/"mixed" of your target snow climbs make for fantastic ski descents.  The exit on Skywalker is too narrow and steep for me, as is the very top of Dragons Tail, but the lower 4/5 of that climb was great skiing, and Dead Dog was the steepest thing I think I've ever skied while still having a start that is doable.  I haven't done Cristo, but I hear it is a good ski.  Another fun climb that would also ski well is the Hourglass Couloirs/Ptarmigan Fingers on Flattop, though the best/steepest of those have very steep exit lips (but wide and safe landing zones below).

4.  If you can, save Pacific for later in your trip to see if you can get the exit portion in alpine ice conditions.  It is VERY fun.

5.  Notch Couloir-- bring rock gear, and pitons.  Depending on how it melts out each year, it can be all snow or mostly snow, but there are frequently rock pro options.

6.  I like the suggestion to add Superstar on James Peak, but that one sheds missiles like nobody's business.  Worthwhile climb, but wear a helmet.  Oh, and some rock gear-- it follows a sort of narrow ramp for a while, where you could get some good gear.  Shooting Star looks cool, but it has always had a monster cornice every time I've seen it.

7.  Dreamweaver should be mostly a snow climb in May/early June, but when the lower portion melts out later (or if done in winter), the start involves two big chockstones in a chimney and is close to 5.6.  the chockstones should not even be visible this time of year, though.

8. The snow climbs on Mt. Evans (especially the Snave) are very fun for how low commitment they are (15 minute approaches-- it's like snow-climb cragging), but at the moment it sounds like the Mt. Evans Road is going to stay closed long into the summer this year or maybe even not open at all.

If you want to warm-up on something easier: Missouri, C-Couloir.  And, depending on  conditions, Little Bear's Hour Glass could still be a snow climb in mid-May.

on Notch? Just bring a whole bunch of nuts. Tons of pro to be had on the R side of the couloir. (a bit of fixed pro on Broadway too, but mostly a museum collection)

Long Ranger wrote: Pitons on Notch? Just bring a whole bunch of nuts. Tons of pro to be had on the R side of the couloir. (a bit of fixed pro on Broadway too, but mostly a museum collection)

Good point.  I’ve never actually placed one up there, but I’ve thought of them as a good insurance policy for some alpine terrain like the notch.  I’m probably just carrying some extra weight.  Still, you’re already carrying a hammer...

Thanks everybody for all the great responses. I couldn't respond for several days because my account is new and I posted too much, so I got blocked as a potential spammer! Now I'm back.

Josh, to your points above, I'll definitely be bringing some flotation. I just got a new pair of MSR Lightning Ascent snowshoes that I can't wait to use. But I'm not a skier unfortunately. Maybe one day. Thanks for specific tips on the rest of the routes, I'll add those to my notes.

Here's another idea I've been thinking about. Several of the climbs discussed in this thread are within striking distance of Chasm Lake below Longs Peak. I don't have my Cooper book with me right now but I believe in that area there are at least (1) Cables Route (N. Face) on Longs itself, (2) Martha Couloir on Mt. Lady Washington, and (3) Dreamweaver on Meeker. Also many others, of course.

If I were really stoked to get out and camp for several days, wouldn't it be a great trip to get a bivy permit and stay up there for a while ticking these off? See the bivy zones here: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…. Am I crazy to be thinking about getting bivy permits for like a week in late June and just having a go at a "grand slam"?

Couple things. One, I know RMNP is currently closed due to COVID. But I've been following things pretty closely and am still hopeful that something like this will be possible in late June. Two, you should assume I'm very stoked to get out and LOVE spending multiple days in the backcountry doing challenging stuff each day.

With that in mind, can anyone think other reasons why this plan wouldn't work?

also by the way jjust, that link was awesome! great site

RMNP is closed atm. When it opens, it's not clear if camping is going to be allowed let alone in wilderness zones/climbers bivies.  Just don't want you to plan on things that may not happen. 

VJ Jeremiah wrote: If I were really stoked to get out and camp for several days, wouldn't it be a great trip to get a bivy permit and stay up there for a while ticking these off? See the bivy zones here: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…. Am I crazy to be thinking about getting bivy permits for like a week in late June and just having a go at a "grand slam"?

(Provided that the bivy permit could be gotten) long time to be up high - the Park is pretty strict about you having a bivy, so no tent site. Weather isn't always that good, so a week is a long time to be up there and not be miserable - biggest thing is just not always so great to be at altitude for so long exposed. That, and you're close to the Boulder Übermensch: linkups like that are done in a day ;)

VJ-- I always dream about those multitday grand slam trips where I base camp in a basin and climb a different alpine route on the surrounding peaks each day.  The few times I have actually tried such a thing, the limiting factor has been my and my partners' ability to carry enough food and fuel and equipment in to base camp without making the trip in too slow or making ourselves be too worked by the approach day to climb strong the next.  I guess that's why the big expeditions to the Great Ranges have at least a rest day (if not rest week) between the approach and the summit bid.  And porters.  The one time I tried to do a big multiday in June, the weight made us posthole even harder.  We were completely spent by the time we reached base camp.  And then it hailed.

One modified version for Chasm Lake area (assuming camping is even open by then, which is not looking promising at the moment):   as Long Ranger points out, you can only bivy at the Lake (no tents), but you can tent camp at Goblin's Forest campground, which is a little over a mile in on the Longs Peak trail.  This still leaves you about 3.5 miles to Chasm Lake and the start of Lambs Slide, Martha, or Dreamweaver, but it would put you a mile closer than the trailhead, at least.  I did that once for a Dreamweaver trip, and it doesn't offer that much advantage, but it did give us a quiet night in the woods (as opposed to at some big drive-up campground or in a hotel in town) and an early start.  And you'd be sleeping at a more gentle elevation than Chasm Lake.

In addition, I seem to recall being able to cut off about a 1/2 mile of the approach trail by cutting through the Battle Mountain group campground.  It is steeper but avoids a long switchback in the regular trail-- saves you a bit of time/distance.  

One note:  if you did bivy at Chasm Lake, the only reasonable way to climb Cables Route / North Face would be to climb the Camel Couloir (which can be a bit tricky to find the start of from below) out of the Chasm to reach the Boulderfield.  Otherwise you'd be looking at a lot of backtracking on trail to hike around.  On the other hand, a base camp at Goblin's Forest would leave you below the trail junction, so Cables Route would be just as viable as any of the others...

I'm pulling for your trip to work out, VJ, but if I had to put my money on anything at this point, it would be that the Park will not be opened up quite enough by June.  We'll see, though.  Good Luck!

Some good news - Park MAY be opening on the 27th,

https://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/conditions.htm#covid19

Yes Ranger, just saw that. We'll see how it shakes out, but looks like it's not impossible .... great news. I, for one, am in serious need of some time outside after so much time working from home (I'm in the south with no access to mountains on the weekends).

Thanks Josh for the comments. Great points throughout. You know, these "grand slam" trips always sound so nice in my dreams, but it's true that they're very difficult to actually pull off. I've tried similar trips a bunch of times, but can only remember one really successful one. We went up Garnet Canyon in the Tetons and stayed for four days ticking off a bunch of classics. But that was in high summer, and you're right that all the snow on the ground will make a big difference.

Still not ruling out something like this but maybe I'll try a modified version like you suggested, camping (if possible) at Goblin's Forest and climbing from there. First things first I need to get out there and stretch my legs on some easier stuff--this Cables/Dreamweaver/Martha part of the trip is subject to at least a few warm-up climbs first for me. Haven't strapped on my crampons since last Spring!!

Goblins castle is not very far from the trailhead. Doesn't save you much walking from the parking lot, if you're planning on a multiple day outing in the Chasm Lake cirque 

True Micaiah. But I'll be without a permanent residence at the time, so having a base camp that's not the back of my Ford Expedition would still potentially be an upgrade. Also really just looking for an extended stay in the "backcountry" (even if not that far from the trailhead) for fun and relaxation. 

VJ Jeremiah, ping me if/when you go, I'll see if I can't join in with ya.

There's also the Battle Mountain GROUP campsite further up the hill. Just inside treeline. You would need a few people to grab it, though. That campsite would take the sting out of the day.

It is true that the closest dispersed campsites are ~4 miles away from the TH, and they'll be busy. Lots of private property everywhere. RMNP campsites are always the greatest, especially after a rainstorm. Consider hammocking it if you've got the interest/gear.

Also I guess worth mentioning is that the E Longs Peak trailhead has long been a way to gain access to the Park without paying (no gate, no one to take your money, no place to put money), but the last time I was there, they were advertising payment via phone app, and setting up free wifi. I don't know the status of the rollout for that, but as someone who visits that trailhead on the reg, I think I'm just gonna buy a Parks pass and avoid the annoyance of having to deal with that all.

Ranger, that sounds great, I'll absolutely ping you. I have partners lined up for part of my snow-climbing month but not others; would be glad to make your acquaintance. And that is CLUTCH beta about the E Longs Peak trailhead, I had no idea. Gonna go check that out on the map right now....

Just stay out of the gore range... Nothing good in there

Wow, how had I never heard of the Gore Range--I thought I was a mountain aficionado ...

This looks epic: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/111135815/the-zodiac-traverse.  

Also, SummitPost appears to have particularly well-developed info about the Gore Range. Secret's out Mike