EPC Time Wave Camping

• Anyone ever camped on Time Wave? How big is that ledge? How'd ya go about it? Just lay on the ledge? I'll admit, I've never slept on a wall. 

The ledge is huge, feels totally comfortable being unroped. And yeah, you pretty much just lay down and go to sleep.....problem is hauling bags would be kinda grim on that route since it’s all slabby. i think most people backpack bivy stuff? Overall my 2 cents would be to do it in a long day linking pitches. Or learn to simul climb 5.9 with a progress capture device on the anchors and send in a short day :)

The 8th and 12th pitch ledges are huge, I wouldn't consider stopping at the 8th pitch worth it, there isn't as comfortable spot to camp there as it is more exposed and the rest of the pitches leading up to there, short of the 2nd pitch are a total romp. If you're doing it for the camping experience go for it, just a sleeping bag and a blow up mattress plus extra food and water is all you need, you can leave the sleeping gear stashed on the ledge the next day.

If you want to do it in two days because you think you're not capable of doing it in one, I would say just go for it in one, train just a little more and start early. I've climbed the route 8 times now and starting around 3am we typically pass the parties who bivy'ed before they're up for the day and Climbing. That's just linking pitches and no simul-climbing. It will make the first 12 pitches easier not carrying the extra food. Water, and camping gear, and 'hauling' on this route would be a huge pain.

>>Stating the obvious for the sake of redundancy:

Whether you go for it in one or two days, make sure you have your rappel systems 110% wired, and make sure you have a “third hand” in your system. 

Knot the ends of your ropes, every rap, no exceptions. 

Bring an extra set of headlamp batteries. Perhaps even an extra headlamp.  

Bring more than the bare minimum of water. Have copious amounts of calorie dense, low glycemic index snacks.

Be comfortable with traversing rappels and finding bolt lines and anchors in the dark.

have a partner you fully trust, ideally have enjoyably been through some burly type 2 shit with previously, and set expectations and communication standards appropriately before launching.

Especially if you’re “just going for it” in a day, very easy to get fully committed and be in a position where it’s either advisable to bail early, or realize you will be rapping in the dark whilst tired dehydrated, hungry, punchdrunk, etc etc.

Very good idea to have spent a bunch of time on shorter but still lengthy EPC multipitchers like Yankee, Snott, Pancho, SuperNova, etc...

Purists may scoff at this, but its not a bad idea to carry walkie-talkies both for partner comms, and to have a ground team able to check in on you in the evening/morning.

>> answering your question: 
out of necessity for my energy levels, we took an unplanned midday nap on the ledge.

 Ledge is big. Good to stay roped in (would be a bad time to learn you're a sleepwalker), but youd have to try to tumble.

If your planning to bring anything other than an ultralight sleeping system that will keep you warm enough, you’re not ready.

 If there are other parties on route, beware rockfall and choose a bivy spot away from a bombing line. My partner just barely missed taking a grapefruit sized block to the head when we let an overeager party pass us on P4 - they were kicking off choss left and right, hardly calling “Rock!” and rather than apologizing, offering “oops” and defensively criticizing the rock quality. No es bueno, y no es divertido.

De otro manera, its an awesome adventure. Have fun be safe!

I mostly ask about camping because I do want to go during off season so no one else is on it. I've been down there during season & seen 4 parties on Yankee Clipper at 9 am. Eff that. So I think it'd be a nice trip to to start early, lunch & siesta on the ledge, finish it at night & camp at the summit to catch sunrise the next day. And then tie lots of knots & get our asses down before we bake on the wall. TA-DA!

Afterthought: Anyone done anything high since the lights have been put up? Did Pepe y Lupe one night & didn't even need headlamps... until the lights went out at 2am & we started after midnight & there were 3 of us. How high up do the lights hit?

Hauling your camping gear all the way to the top wouldn't be ideal, I guess if it were summer you could go pretty light but you're also  now carrying tons of water. The top is rather exposed and windy, the spot where you would bivy is chossy and rocky but could work. I would start in the late evening and climb through the night of I was going to do it in the off-season. 

Brent Kelly wrote: >>Stating the obvious for the sake of redundancy:

Whether you go for it in one or two days, make sure you have your rappel systems 110% wired, and make sure you have a “third hand” in your system. 

Knot the ends of your ropes, every rap, no exceptions. 

Bring an extra set of headlamp batteries. Perhaps even an extra headlamp.  

Bring more than the bare minimum of water. Have copious amounts of calorie dense, low glycemic index snacks.

Be comfortable with traversing rappels and finding bolt lines and anchors in the dark.

have a partner you fully trust, ideally have enjoyably been through some burly type 2 shit with previously, and set expectations and communication standards appropriately before launching.

Especially if you’re “just going for it” in a day, very easy to get fully committed and be in a position where it’s either advisable to bail early, or realize you will be rapping in the dark whilst tired dehydrated, hungry, punchdrunk, etc etc.

Very good idea to have spent a bunch of time on shorter but still lengthy EPC multipitchers like Yankee, Snott, Pancho, SuperNova, etc...

Purists may scoff at this, but its not a bad idea to carry walkie-talkies both for partner comms, and to have a ground team able to check in on you in the evening/morning.

>> answering your question: 
out of necessity for my energy levels, we took an unplanned midday nap on the ledge.

 Ledge is big. Good to stay roped in (would be a bad time to learn you're a sleepwalker), but youd have to try to tumble.

If your planning to bring anything other than an ultralight sleeping system that will keep you warm enough, you’re not ready.

 If there are other parties on route, beware rockfall and choose a bivy spot away from a bombing line. My partner just barely missed taking a grapefruit sized block to the head when we let an overeager party pass us on P4 - they were kicking off choss left and right, hardly calling “Rock!” and rather than apologizing, offering “oops” and defensively criticizing the rock quality. No es bueno, y no es divertido.

De otro manera, its an awesome adventure. Have fun be safe!

Agree with everything here. But I would add bring as much water and energy bars as you can. Will definitely need it by last 4 pitches. We spent the nite on the ledge.