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Zachary Winters
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May 8, 2020
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Winthrop, WA
· Joined Aug 2014
· Points: 430
This thread taught me that I'm glad I'm not the only one that is glad they're not the only one with a lot of ropes. 70m workhorse 70m skinny 60m kinda skinny 60m half ropes 60m static 10mm 40m gym cut 30m skimo rope
Sterling all the way.
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Josh
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May 8, 2020
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Golden, CO
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 1,365
I can't compete with most of the folks posting here for sheer number of active ropes, so I'll take a different spin on the question. Purpose first, then ropes I'm currently using to address said purposes.
PURPOSE ROPE TYPE DEETS single-pitch cragging 9.4x70 Trango Diamond single-pitch cragging 9.6x60 my old 70m cut down to 60, Edelrid alpine rock 7.8x60 twin/doubles Beal something-or-other ice the twins or the single 70 (generally all my ropes are dry treated) certain multipitch routes with 60m raps the twins (I really like twins for a lot of applications; guess I'm kind of old school Euro that way) toperope abuse old 10.2x60 Mammut something-or-other toprope soloing and 10.2x70 STATIC (hand-me-down from a caver friend of mine, useful, wears out rap biners, though) route developing / " rap bolting "
So really, just three active ropes (or rather, two active single ropes and a set of twins), plus a retired workhorse and a static line. This might be one gear category where rather than overdoing it as i usually do, I have instead achieved what I like to call "an elegant sufficiency..."
Other ropes in my house: -- a new 70m Edelrid TC Pro bipattern, just like Sam SKovgaard above, waiting to get used when my Trango rope is ready to be retired/demoted from leading (which is soon) -- my old set of twin 60s (retired from leading), which make for good glacier / snow climb ropes or haul lines -- the very first rope I owned, made into a woven welcome mat at my front door, for the last 20 years
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Ryan Mac
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May 8, 2020
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Durango, CO
· Joined Apr 2019
· Points: 1
Franck Vee wrote: You guys have a lot of ropes....
Only halfs (Beal iceline 8.1mm) 60m and some 70m ... Probably 9.6mm I guess. And another similar to that but short, 30m or so, for indoor (at least back when that was a thing)
Then a bunch of retired ones. How has your experience been with the ice lines? I'm kind of tempted to use mine for some slabby wandering trad, but they look so fragile I'm afraid they'll get shredded in a few pitches.
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Pavel Burov
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May 8, 2020
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Russia
· Joined May 2013
· Points: 50
Sport: cheap Decathlon 8.9mm rope. Back those days it was 80m. Now it is more like 72..73m.
Trad/alpine: cheap Slovak OEM 2x7.9mm ropes. Back those days they were 60m. Now they are about 55m.
A 4 years old Mammut Infinity 9.5mm. Originally it was 70m. Now days it is 45..50m long. TR solo and other miscellaneous scenarios.
About 5 years ago I had like half a dozen ropes. For gym, for sport cragging, for trad cragging, for multipitches, for big walls, tagline, semi-static for hauling, etc, etc, etc. With a tiny bit of gained experience I got the point there is no need in that much fancy stuff. If I cannot get there it is not because of my rope or my binners or whatever else. It is always due to lack of experience and determination. Rope is just a rope and in alpine/hard trad environment it's lifetime is limited by the first sharp rock to core shoot it.
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Buck Rio
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May 8, 2020
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
Static: KM III 9.5mm TR Solo 150" Sterling 3/8 use for setting up TR 80"
Dynamic: Sterling Fusion Ion R 9.4 trad 60m, favorite rope Mammut Infinity protect 9.5 trad 60m nice rope BD 9.4 70m sport "The Hornet", probably use another year at most, taken a lot of falls, not a great rope, no way it is 9.4mm, more like 10.5. Beal Karma 9.8 40m gym/TR springy Sterling Marathon 10.1 60m everything where I don't have to walk very far. Burly and inspiring Bluewater Lightning Pro 9.7 80m - haven't used yet, plan on using it for sport
I have a bunch of ropes that I've chopped up or retired that are still hanging around.
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Fabien M
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May 8, 2020
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Cannes
· Joined Dec 2019
· Points: 5
30 m Beal Opera Golden Dry for glacier, ridges with no rappel and simul climbing 40 m Beal Booster for the gym 50 m Beal Opera Golden Dry for mountaineering, ice climbing and general outdoor 50 m Edelrid Rapline II for skiing, rappel, long rappel and crevasse rescue 70 m Mammut Serenity Dry for outdoor single and multipitches
40 m Mammut Performance Static for canyonning and caving
Damn, that is a lot of ropes and I m not even sponsored! I still want 2 Beal Gully in 60 m and also a single 60 and 80 m :)
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Fabien M
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May 8, 2020
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Cannes
· Joined Dec 2019
· Points: 5
revans wrote: 70m 9.2 bd for everything. That's how I started and after some years I got tired of dragging, in many cases, way too much rope
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Rob WardenSpaceLizard
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May 8, 2020
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las Vegans, the cosmic void
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 130
9.7mm tendon now about 52m super puffy and a little worked looking 9.1mm airliner 60m replaced the tendon preemptively 9.8mm platinum 70m very durable and well handling 9.8 would use this rope bigwalling or cragging. 9.1mm airliner 80m these are great ropes they last forever 8.7mm 70m tendon master. Not quite what i was hoping for. Its fine its got a few more back country routes in it. I would replace it with the superior mammut for a super skinny line.
9.4 beal stinger 41m used to be an 80. It is totally fuzzed flat and throughly despoiled for 20m. So its "fine to lead"with one end. I cant seem to get rid of it though.
6mm sterling tech cord 70m raplline from sterling
200m of camp 10.5 for jugging/bolting/work
2 60m htp 11mm statics work ropes.
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Matt Himmelstein
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May 8, 2020
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Orange, CA
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 194
Right now: 40m gym rope for the gym with 35m walls 45m gym rope (chopped off 5m from a 50m rope for a core shot) for the gym with 45m walls and for short outdoor walls 60m 10.2 for group top ropes 70m 9.4 for outdoors 70m 9,5 backup for when the outdoor rope is ready to be retired 70m skinny half ropes for when I can get on some multipitch routes that need double rope raps 80m 9.8 to chop into 35m and 45m gym ropes
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Franck Vee
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May 8, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2017
· Points: 260
Ryan Mac wrote: How has your experience been with the ice lines? I'm kind of tempted to use mine for some slabby wandering trad, but they look so fragile I'm afraid they'll get shredded in a few pitches. Haven't used much yet, those are my first set of doubles. Intended for similar things - multipitch trad. Got tired of doing 35m rappels, worrying more about what rappel options are possible with a single rope etc. So I can't for durability. But they're pretty small, not a whole lot more work to carry vs a regular 70m sport rope + tag line. At 8.1mm, it does feel pretty small a little weird to be clipping just one of those in a draw. A bit of an adjustment for belaying & also prussic/autoblock - I add one more wrap or so to get enough friction (compare to typical single rope).
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Gunkiemike
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May 8, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,732
Franck Vee wrote: Haven't used much yet, those are my first set of doubles. Intended for similar things - multipitch trad. Got tired of doing 35m rappels, worrying more about what rappel options are possible with a single rope etc. So I can't for durability. But they're pretty small, not a whole lot more work to carry vs a regular 70m sport rope + tag line. At 8.1mm, it does feel pretty small a little weird to be clipping just one of those in a draw. A bit of an adjustment for belaying & also prussic/autoblock - I add one more wrap or so to get enough friction (compare to typical single rope). A couple common cautions for anyone new to skinny doubles - a second carabiner in the ATC-style belay/rap device goes a long way to restoring the normal level of braking. And if belaying "guide style" with an ATC Guide or similar, one must be VERY watchful for the rope flipping in the slot.
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Ted Raven
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May 8, 2020
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Squamish, BC
· Joined Aug 2016
· Points: 220
Gunkiemike wrote: A couple common cautions for anyone new to skinny doubles - a second carabiner in the ATC-style belay/rap device goes a long way to restoring the normal level of braking. And if belaying "guide style" with an ATC Guide or similar, one must be VERY watchful for the rope flipping in the slot. If you're worried, just buy a MicroJul. They are the cat's ass for skinny ropes.
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Ryan SD
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May 8, 2020
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Rapid City, SD / Reno, NV
· Joined May 2015
· Points: 0
Currently:
Bluewater Icon 9.1 60m....General cragging and trad climbing. Mammut eternity 9.8 60m....Gumby rope for days out toproping and abusing. Occasional sport route use. Beal Joker 9.1 70m....Just got this one, multipitch and because i really needed a 70m. Will use when 70 is required.
Ive been really liking the 9.1ish size. Feels good
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Bryce U
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May 8, 2020
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Boise, ID
· Joined Aug 2019
· Points: 156
Edelrid 70m 9.6 TC Pro Duo Dry: First rope purchase. Didn't use the 70 too often so I bought a 60. Edelrid 60m 9.8 Boa Eco Dry: Sport, Multi-pitch, Trad, Top-rope.
I appreciate hearing everyone's setups and rationale.
Next rope would definitely be something thinner/lighter for multi-pitching and trad.
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Andrew Blease
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May 8, 2020
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Asheville, NC
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 445
Sterling 9.5, bi pattern. I have three, two are blue, and one is red. 60m Sterling Nano 9 60m Sterling 8.8 doubles 60m 30m 8.5 Mammut single Mammut 9.5 70m bipattern Mammut 10mm x50m 7mm x 75m pull line Yale Kernmaster polyester static line. 11mm x 60m
I also have about 10 bazillion feet of climbing line and rigging line for my job as an arborist as well.
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Franck Vee
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May 8, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2017
· Points: 260
Ted Raven wrote: If you're worried, just buy a MicroJul. They are the cat's ass for skinny ropes. My skinnies are, theorically at least, not skinny enough (8.1 and microjul seems to spec 6.0-8.0). Though it would probably still be workable as diameters are more a nominal value. It still handles decently on a reverso, though we have not indeed taken huge falls on them. But maybe, as Gunkmike said, doubling up on biners would be an option. We typically don't get into stuff where huge whippers are likely with those (more for alpine/adventure ground than pushing the grades), but you never know.
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Jared Chrysostom
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May 9, 2020
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Clemson, SC
· Joined Oct 2017
· Points: 5
Ryan Mac wrote: How has your experience been with the ice lines? I'm kind of tempted to use mine for some slabby wandering trad, but they look so fragile I'm afraid they'll get shredded in a few pitches. I have a pair for the same exact purpose - lots of NC routes require double 60’s to rappel and I got tired of dragging a second line just to rap. Mine have at least 20 pitches of slab on them, and they still look and feel new. I got the smaller Mammut Smart Alpine to use with the Ice Lines. Haven’t caught a fall yet but it has plenty of friction on rappel so I don’t have any concerns. Also, rope drag is basically nonexistent even on a wandering 60m pitch, if you do it right.
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Bruno Schull
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May 9, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2009
· Points: 0
This thread makes me so happy! I'm not crazy! I have a buch of ropes too, not as much as some here, but more than others.
But wait....do other climbers obsess about having different colors/lengths so ropes are easily distinguished? Or do others obsess about brands/consistency?
Maybe I AM crazy after all...
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Nick Baker
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May 11, 2020
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Jan 2016
· Points: 91
Zz want tz
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Newt Riverman
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May 11, 2020
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Denver, CO
· Joined Jul 2019
· Points: 0
70m Edelrid 9.8 - multipitch sport 60m Mammut 9.8 - crag work 70m Mammut 9.5- trad 50m 8.5 Mammut- extending ice climbing anchors 30m 8 Mammut- also for building ice anchors 30m Mammut gym rope
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