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Epic Link-ups in the PNW

Original Post
Dan Bookless · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 2,207

Curious what ya'll can come up with.  Looking for big objectives to link together in a single push.
-Rock Climbing (free climbing)
-Car to Car

So far I've been eyeing the Enchantments link-up: Acid Baby-Solid Gold-Outer Space (anyone know of the FKT)
Also think that Smith Rock could offer some cool link-ups: Freedom is Just another Word-Zerbra Zion-Angling and Dangling (that one could probably be done in like 8 hours)
I'm Sure Wash Pass holds endless potential.

Shaun Johnson · · Pocatello, ID · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,565

I planned on doing this one a few years ago but never got around to it. I would love to see it get done.

Colchuck Peak, Dragontail Peak, Acid Baby then Colchuck Balanced Rock.

Shaun Johnson · · Pocatello, ID · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,565

Another one of my projects is

Biking the Mt Loop highway while camping and peak bagging as many classic scrambles as my body could handle.

Supplies could be carried along for the entire trip, or a support team could help out big time.

Jimmy Downhillinthesnow · · Fort Collins, CO / Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

You could go up to Washington Pass and bag a bunch of stuff in the wine spires: Paisano --> burgundy, come down, drop over the col and do some routes on the other side.

Cosmic Charlie · · Washington · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Things I've considered:
Enchantments thru-hike/climb (various options)
Paisano-Burgundy-Rebel Yell
Liberty Bell Traverse

There was a great post on Cascade Climber with a huge list of traverses (not necessary pure rock climbing but some great ideas):
https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/103405-washington-high-routes-and-traverses/ 

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Once the border reopens, Squamish would offer some good options  -  multiple routes on the Chief in a day:
Grand Wall - Angel's Crest (an entry-level two-route option)
Sunset Strip - Grand Wall - Angel's Crest (the moderate-difficulty triple)
Freeway - Grand Wall - Polaris (a harder triple)
Freeway - U Wall- Northern Lights (yikes)

If you take a similar approach to WA Pass (harder routes, minimal hiking), a linkup of routes on the east side of the Liberty Bell group would offer a lot of steep rock without an excess amount of hiking in between. You could link up multiple routes on SEWS east face, for example:
Direct E Buttress - Passenger - Hitchhiker (or start with just 2 of them for something less severe)

For a more traditional up-and-over linkup, with no climbing above 5.10, you could do Clean Break - Paisano - Burgandy. Or various other Clean Break to Wine Spires linkups. This one is logical since the carryover descent from Clean Break puts you near the bases of the west face of the Wine Spires.

In Darrington, the obvious, logical, must-do linkup is Roan Wall (Center Stage) to Salish Peak (Flight of the Falcon). Of all the linkups listed here,this is the one I actually want to do.

Also in Darrington, if you did Slab Daddy and Oso Rodeo in a day (40+ pitches of slab climbing), that would be very impressive. Your feet might fall off though from all that slabbing. A less crazy nearby linkup in Darrington would be to knock out a couple of the Illusion Wall routes in a day (which, btw, are amazing and should get more attention).

Disclaimer: I have not done any of these linkups. Read this as what it is: idle speculation.

Eric Roe · · Spokane · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 16

Great opportunity to repost one of my favorite climbing videos, since you mentioned the enchantments:

Let it Burn, CBR; Dragons of Eden, Dragontail; Der Sportsmen, Prussik

Dan Bookless · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 2,207

Link up of Passenger, DEB, and Hitch-hiker would be rad!

Charles LaSalle · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 45

I did the last three pitches of anglin n' danglin' with my buddy this past winter at Smith. We did the first two pitches of Jim's climbing and linked it to the last three of anglin n' danglin'. One of the best multi pitches I've done to date. The fourth pitch was the money pitch! But all of it is super good climbing. The second pitch of Jim's climbing is super fun too.

With that being said, that climb is at the monument area which is currently closed for falcon season. I believe it opens up in the beginning of July.

Also, Lava Lanes is a fun multi pitch in the monument area as well.

Jplotz · · Cashmere, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,335
Shaun Johnson wrote: I planned on doing this one a few years ago but never got around to it. I would love to see it get done.

Colchuck Peak, Dragontail Peak, Acid Baby then Colchuck Balanced Rock.

Love it!  A counter clockwise traverse of the Colchuck Lake Cirque!  


I've heard the NE Buttress route on Colchuck is garbage.  Have you climbed it before?

christoph benells · · tahoma · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 306

Beacon Rock has much potential!

One i've wanted to do-
Free for all/Dods/Dastardly
Walk off to West face
Kingpin/Slow Train/Tourist attraction
Walk off to North Face
Steamboat Captain's Dream

Roughly 1500' vert, a nice Day of climbing with no need to wake up early and time to be home for dinner.

Shaun Johnson · · Pocatello, ID · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,565

John: Jens and I climbed the NEB of Colchuck, but it was in the winter. cascadeclimbers.com/forum/t…

Eric Roe:  Thanks for sharing that video. That was for sure one of the most epic link ups in the Enchantments so far. While filming that day, Max and I took the high ground between CBR and the Acid Baby top out. I have taken this path a few times over the years and it is pretty easy.  If anyone is interested in linking Acid baby then CBR I would recommend going this way. Only one short section of 5th class guards this path from the hikers.  

In my opinion just linking Acid Baby with the West Face of CBR would be one of the best climbing days that WA could provide.

Spider Savage · · Los Angeles, ID · Joined May 2007 · Points: 540

My dream is to do all of the Cascade Volcanos in a relentless one mountain a day binge.

Kevin Piarulli · · Redmond, OR · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 2,178

Great thread, I'll second the Roan Wall->Flight of the Falcon link. It's not quite as classic as an area like the Enchantments, but if you're looking for a slightly higher suffering:fun ratio and a lot of great rock climbing, it delivers. I distinctly remember swimming through a steep patch of slide alder with my feet above my head at one point when we lost the trail.

Here's a list from a 12-hour, 30 pitch day at Smith, all multipitch, mostly 5.9-5.10: This would be tricky if it's crowded, and takes flexibility in your plans. The Monkey Face is an obvious add on, but often too busy. It would be easy to tack more pitches on, especially if you walked up to the marsupials.

Eric K · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 45

Ever sinced I moved to leavenworth I've wanted to do what I think would be the ultimate cascades ironman.

Start at Icicle and bike to Colchuck Lk > Hike to the Lk > Swim Across > Climb Dragontail > Swim back across the lake > Hike back to the bike > Ride back to Icicle

Cosmic Charlie · · Washington · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
Eric K wrote: Ever sinced I moved to leavenworth I've wanted to do what I think would be the ultimate cascades ironman.

Start at Icicle and bike to Colchuck Lk > Hike to the Lk > Swim Across > Climb Dragontail > Swim back across the lake > Hike back to the bike > Ride back to Icicle

HA I just bought a bike and have been thinking about all sorts of crazy human powered adventures.  THIS^ is a great one!  


I was talking to a friend about biking and climbing volcanoes: Baker->Glacier->Rainier-> St Helens-> Adams->Hood.  What an epic trip that would be!

Also, some N. Cascades bike/climb would be sick.  

Dan Bookless · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 2,207
Jplotz wrote:

Love it!  A counter clockwise traverse of the Colchuck Lake Cirque!  

Ditto.  Colchuck Lake Cirque would be a prime candidate for link ups!

Dan Bookless · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 2,207
christoph benells wrote: Beacon Rock has much potential!

One i've wanted to do-
Free for all/Dods/Dastardly
Walk off to West face
Kingpin/Slow Train/Tourist attraction
Walk off to North Face
Steamboat Captain's Dream

Roughly 1500' vert, a nice Day of climbing with no need to wake up early and time to be home for dinner.

You're a genius Chris!

Dan Bookless · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 2,207
Kevin MP wrote: Great thread, I'll second the Roan Wall->Flight of the Falcon link. It's not quite as classic as an area like the Enchantments, but if you're looking for a slightly higher suffering:fun ratio and a lot of great rock climbing, it delivers. I distinctly remember swimming through a steep patch of slide alder with my feet above my head at one point when we lost the trail.

Here's a list from a 12-hour, 30 pitch day at Smith, all multipitch, mostly 5.9-5.10: This would be tricky if it's crowded, and takes flexibility in your plans. The Monkey Face is an obvious add on, but often too busy. It would be easy to tack more pitches on, especially if you walked up to the marsupials.

Dayam!  Did you simul most of it?  Also whats the FKT of First Kiss C2C?

shotgunnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

Step 1. Pick up pastries from Besalu
Step 2. Drive your tesla to a pot shop and purchase the max amount allowed
Step 3. Drive tesla to Index
Step 4. Climb via ferrata to set up a top rope on breakfast of champions
Step 5. Climb breakfast of champions 100 times
Step 6. Return to your vehicle to find your window smashed by smelly vagrants who stole all your weed and pastries

Is this the type of link up you guys are talking about?

shotgunnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

On a serious note there should be some choss link up in the olympics that would be brutal right? We had some in glacier that were fun in a weird sorta way.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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