Shoe strategy for Cascades approach

I went for a walk yesterday in my Scarpa Rebel boots and my shins are cooked today. I'm guessing that folks probably wear flexible shoes on the hike in and then switch into mountain boots once they're on the glacier?

Folks do it both ways. Anything more than a mile or two and I'll usually wear lightweight trail runners and then stash them somewhere (in a trash bag) before getting on the glacier.

Thanks, Brock. Yeah, the plan was to climb Mt. Goode, which has a significant approach, but who knows if the park will be open. My partner and I need a backup plan.

I wore light alpine boots for the approach and ascent of Forbidden peak last year and didn't have ankle issues.  I've had problems in the past with sore shins from another pair of boots, so now I tie the foot snug, but leave the ankle looser for most of the hike.   Most boots have lace locks at the base of the ankle so you can do this.  Sometimes, if I need less ankle support, I won't even use the upper lace hooks.  I just wrap the excess lace around the base of the ankle and tie them there.  Saves carrying another pair of shoes.

A boot with a more rockered sole will walk better (Scarpa Charmoz would be an example). Scarpa Rebel are very flat across the sole, makes them climb technical terrain great, but are not the best for walking in as it alter your natural gait.

That being said if the approach is over 2 miles of dry trail i'd probably wear trail runners.

The park is technically open BTW, just trail heads, and improved recreation sites are close, read more into it and give the park rangers a call, they will clarify for you.

Shoe strategy for the Cascades will vary WILDLY based on the objective, season, conditions, and to a significant extent the preferences of the climber.

Since you specifically mentioned Goode, a Scarpa Rebel makes very little sense for that objective in my opinion.  The Rebel is a very stiff alpine boot designed for steep ice and mixed in warm conditions, and by nature of that intent, poor for hiking.  Since Goode has a lot of hiking and zero steep ice and mixed, I think that's the wrong tool for the job.  For that particular objective I would use a very light 3-season boot (Charmoz or Zodiac Tech), a high top approach shoe (TX4 Mid, Mescalito Mid), a normal approach shoe like a TX3, or trail runners (or a combination).  For something with that much walking and not a lot of snow, I'd probably not even want to wear a Charmoz, and would likely do an approach shoe.

A TX3 (or equivalent) would probably work great, and I've been really stoked about Zodiac Techs for big alpine days if you want to have a bit more snow/ice climbing capability.  I used Zodiacs for the Toerment-Forbidden Traverse last year, and my partner used TX3s, both worked out great.

Beware, the common Cascades technique of stashing sneakers and switching to boots might not be so applicable to Goode, given the overall route layout.  If you stash at the N. Fork, you'll be stuck wearing your boots for a while on trail on the way in, and quite a while on the way out before you get back to your stash.

When I climbed Goode we had to do some actual serac ice climbing to get across the well broken glacier.   Would be a significant bummer to hike all the way in there in running shoes only to be totally unprepared for conditions.   But agreed your phantoms are not a cascade mountaineering boot!

Climbed Mt Goode NEB last July and wore Scarpa Kinesis leather hiking boots. They were fine for the hike in/out, the glacier and the climb itself. I did have a pair of lightweight crampons and 1 tool which was plenty for the glacier. I was happy that I didn't bring climbing shoes or heavier boots. Have fun, it's a fun peak!

I have hiked significantly more than two miles in my Scarpa Ortles GTX and Hanwag Friction II GTX and didn't have any shin issues.  Granted, they are not built for long hikes and there's definitely better tools for that job but I really prefer that to packing an extra pair of shoes, which I've also tried but it is really not for me.

Be aware that shin issues could also be attributable to general shape and strength of the hiker in question. Don't know how used you are to big mountain boots but biting off more than you can chew is definitely a one way road to shin troubles, whether you're wearing mountain boots or comfortable hikers. It's for that specific reason that shin inflammation is a quite common injury during military basic training. 

A modern mountain boot should be able to climb well AND be reasonably comfortable on the approach hike. Look for flexible ankle construction and rockered soles. Especially the models built for alpine trekking and summer mountaineering have these characteristics. 

Victor Machtel wrote: 
Be aware that shin issues could also be attributable to general shape and strength of the hiker in question. Don't know how used you are to big mountain boots but biting off more than you can chew is definitely a one way road to shin troubles, whether you're wearing mountain boots or comfortable hikers. It's for that specific reason that shin inflammation is a quite common injury during military basic training.

You're spot on. It's funny how selective memory works.

Richard Vogt wrote: I went for a walk yesterday in my Scarpa Rebel boots and my shins are cooked today. I'm guessing that folks probably wear flexible shoes on the hike in and then switch into mountain boots once they're on the glacier?

Oh, for certain. At least for those of us (me) who only wear the boots occasionally. I've seen guides wear boots (or even flip-flops) straight from the car to camp. But then they're "used to it". I take some lightweight shoes and just go with the slight extra weight. Besides, lightweight shoes are nice around camp instead of boots. Or, I suppose you could wear the boots often enough that your shin muscles become stronger. Keep at it, it'll get better.

I greatly prefer trail runners for as long as possible then switching to mountain boots when necessary. For me it's a lot more comfortable, keeps me from sweating in my boots and wetting the liners, and it's less weight on the feet so less energy exerted overall.

there was another pretty good thread about footwear tactics for the cascades, maybe last summer or so.  i typically will use a 2-shoe system, my TX4's for the approach and something else as needed.  i have climbed a few times with people who are gung-ho for climbing everything in their boots, and they are always miserable.

I did Goode in running shoes with microspikes. The glacier pushed that combo to the limit. Really depends on what shape the schrund is in.
it’s a really fun route. Bring trail gaiters for the descent off the backside, as it burned a few years back and is a long ways of loose dusty ashy garbage to make it down to the trail. 

I hate wearing boots unless I'm on glacier/snow the majority of the climb.  I've used various approach shoes/mirco-spikes/entry level strap crampons. I've used this method on Forbidden, N. Ridge of Stuart, etc.   I really like LS TX3 because they are amazingly comfortable hikers and climb really well ... downside: no GTX.  They do dry relatively quick but wetness can be an issue.  I wore Guide Tennies for most of these jaunts but the traction on those shoes absolutely suck in snow.  The upside - they make a Mid GTX version!  I tried this for a season and couldn't get over the fact that I was still sliding all over the place in snow and always had to have my micros on which can get uncomfortable over a long day.  I've resorted back to my TX3, deal with the damp socks and have been plenty happy since.

I do have a quick question for this group: Do you know of any other GTX approach shoes?  What about some GTX hiker that climbs well?  

Kip Kasper wrote: I did Goode in running shoes with microspikes. The glacier pushed that combo to the limit. Really depends on what shape the schrund is in.
it’s a really fun route. Bring trail gaiters for the descent off the backside, as it burned a few years back and is a long ways of loose dusty ashy garbage to make it down to the trail. 

Thanks for the beta. Definitely getting gaiters.

getting slightly off topic, but man, i would love it if they made velcro TX3/TX4.  would be great for cragging, as well as those routes where you are constantly back and forth wishing you were in your other shoes.

goode in running shoes sounds like taking the comfort thing just a wee bit too far :)

I haven't been in the mountains in the last two months this year but I had a decent season last year.  One of my trips was a big looping splitboard traverse with a fair amount of walking on dry trail/talus.  I carried a pair of Evolv Cruzers and walked in those without socks until it was time to put on the ski boots (I splitboard in Atomic Backland boots).  Fortunately my AT boots actually walk better than my mountaineering boots.  Another trip last year started in chest waders and switched to AT boots as soon as we were across the river.  There were two miles between that river crossing and skinnable snow that we hadn't expected so I walked in and out of that trip in my AT boots but that were ok.  On some trips I just walk in and out in Nepals but not when I have to walk more than a few miles and never in a big hurry.  Lately my favorite boots for summer trips in the Cascades have been the LaSpo Trango Techs.  They keep my feet dry, they walk easy with enough support for a day pack, they'll fit my steel or my aluminum crampons, and they climb 5th class rock decently.  They are no trail runner but they seem to be more like an approach shoe for an easy glacier slog rather than an approach shoe for an easy rock climb.

Cosmic Charliewrote: I do have a quick question for this group: Do you know of any other GTX approach shoes?  What about some GTX hiker that climbs well?  

Absolutely in love with my Salewa Mountain Trainers.  Got my first pair from 2018 and fell in love.  They're more on the "light hiker" spectrum of approach shoes than "approach-y climbing shoe."  Got a second pair (2020), so far only ~ 10 miles on them and not as happy w/ the lacing setup compared to the older model (a little different and creating some hot spots) which hopefully will break in with use.  I've only really scrambled in them but feel capable in easy 5th class.  Not light but lighter than real boots.