Asininely specific rappel question
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Hey folks, I might be dreaming up an unrealistic scenario, but let's say youve got to retreat off a ~75m face because of a storm rolling that will definitely kill you if it hits (idk, knife storm lol). Basically you've got to get off and you're not worried about retrieving the rope and you've got an 80m, harness, one screwgate and a reverso/Grigri etc. Now let's suppose that there are three small trees, so small you can't trust just two. How would you tie the rope around all three in such a way that there that there is just one strand coming off of the, for lack of a better word, masterpoint. I know with two trees it's fairly straightforward, an eight around one tree and an AB with a huge loop around the other, but I can't come up with any really great way of equalizing three. |
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Not Hobo Greg wrote: Bowline. Lol thanks |
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This takes 13 meters. That leaves 67 meters from the master point. If you're a big Billy, with static elongation you might just get close enough to drop . . . Edit: Don't need the cloves. Guess I was gripped on acct of oncoming storm . . . but as it's a knife storm, perhaps the add'l redundancy is in order. |
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Andy Wiesner wrote: This takes 13 meters. That leaves 67 meters from the master point. If you're a big Billy, with static elongation you might just get close enough to drop . . . WOW, that was fast! Thanks alot man! "Big Billy" that made me laugh |
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Or, if you had one more carabiner (or were really good at the dulfersitz rappel) you'd use RGold's setup: |
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I am sure you could do this with only the climbing rope. There are numerous knot configurations that would work. |
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Cut about 5 meters off the end of rope and use... |
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+1 Get out the knife. |
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Here is my solution. It took about 6 meters of rope, in the wild probably 8 meters. Still enough for a skinny willy. I call it the thong. What I like about this anchor is that if one goes away there is no shock loading. However, not easy to get nicely equalized. Most of all it was easy to set up and clean. Which is important when that knife storm moves in. |
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Equalization is bullshit. If the anchors are truly bad enough that whatever marginal 'equalization' you achieve in your anchor makes a difference, you're fucked anyway. Just tie them off in series and think light thoughts. The time you will have saved not overthinking it will surely keep a knife or two out of your back. Oh yeah, and have your partner rap first. |
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Not Hobo Greg wrote: Bowline. Did I hear “bowline?” I tied three bowlines around the bases of three small “trunks,” using less than six meters of 10mm rope and using NO slings or carabiners. This configuration provides equalization and allows no extension if one “trunk” were to fail. This arrangement can be adjusted according to the arrangement of the “trunks.” I used the base of each “trunk” without throwing the rope over the tops of the “trees.” See attached pic. |
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as you're tied in, walk around the back of all three trees, then, facing the trees, pull the two strands in between the outside trees and the middle tree, then you have two loops. From here, take your tie in strand and create another loop and take the loose strand and make a loop. tie all loops together to make a big overhand on a bight. this leaves the long loose end coming out the backside of this BHK knot, along with your tie in strand. From here take a locking carabiner and clove hitch the loose strand going down the cliff to the masterpoint, then get on rappel. Untie from the tie in and tie an overhand on bight and clip that back into the locker on masterpoint. This would probably use much more that the allotted 5 meters. I would guess this set-up would use about 10-15 meters based on where the trees are. |
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The storm is about to hit. You need to move fast. You don't even want to be doing anything complex, or a knot you have never used. |
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If the saplings were really weak then you might decide to take more time setting up the anchor and accept the risk of an early lightening strike in order to decrease the chance of a 75m fall. You'd want to minimize shock load if an anchor failed and lessen the angle at the masterpoint. You might need as much rope as possible for the anchors, which would necessitate only a single strand going to each anchor. |
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I'm a big fan of "knife storm" as a metaphorical objective hazard. |
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David Coleys suggestion is the best thing you could do. The amount of friction from one wrap on each tree can be pretty significant. The triple loop bowline double sheet bend is super fast and easy to tie once you’ve mastered both knots. My version is a little simpler and anyone who can tie a snap bowline could tie it: you could save a little rope by only doing a 2 loop snap and tying off the tail to the third tree |
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I have a new one! |
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It seems like the solutions provided don''t result in true equalization, but the premise of the OP is that no two trees will support you so the quest is for equalization among all three trees with minimal equipment. He said you can't trust just two, so if the attempts at equalization load one tree or two of the trees disproportionately, you die. When you load this, the load looks like it is all on tree 1, but it is really shared with rear trees because they are tensioned up by the two z-drags. This took 17 feet of rope. I'm not sure if it's perfectly equalized, but I tested the tension between trees 1-2 and 1-3 and it seemed the same and I got it pretty tight using the z-drags. |
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"so small you can't trust just two." |
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If nothing else, this thread has introduced both "asininely" and "knife storm" to the MP zeitgeist. There are not necessarily new words, but rather novel uses of existing words. My sincerest thanks to the OP. |

















