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Unparlle shoes... fit consistancy, thoughts likes dislikes?

Original Post
Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

I am sorely tempted by UP. I also however still have a bad taste in my mouth from things that were SOP at 5.10.

My questions are

1 do they have sizing QC so that i dont have to wonder batch to batch if my size will go up or down like 1-2 sizes.

2 sorry if this is needing to be spoon fed but which models are related to your favorite 5.10s?

Aka
Team
Dragon
I did fugure out the vim is the V10 slipper which i missed.

Any shops where you know they carry these? I travel a fair amount ( before covid) and would like to see how they are in person before i order a few differnet ones.

Thanks in advance. 

John Nguyen · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2019 · Points: 192

UP Regulus=5.10 Hiangle
UP Engage=5.10 Rogue

Read Januskiewiecz · · Taos, NM · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 385

Sizing was pretty consistent across the boards. I was able to try almost every shoe on a couple months back. I ended up grabbing the regulus, vim and moc. Couldn't be happier the VIM is my favorite hands down. The rubber is good nice and sticky. Shoes molded but didn't stretch out. Not exactly apples to apples 5.10. For me at least was all the things I liked but with some tweaks that fixed what I didn't like mostly. Solid build in particular the straps both pull on and across foot. I measure a 12 on a brannock device. Wore 11 Hi Angle (tight), 11.5 Arrowhead(sport climb tight, 11 to boulder), 12 old Dragon (really tight), 11.5 black teams (tight).  UP Vim 11.5  tight but never painful (could go to 11 but heel didn't sit right. 11.5 with out stretching has been perfect) 11 regulus (tight but never painful) fits really similar to Hi Angle. Everything else I tried on I was an 11.5. and seemed perfect. Heels are hard to pull on especially the VIM but not that bad.

Men Boon · · East B'jesus · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

I'll hop in and ask about the Sirius Lace.  They don't have the LV version in my Dragon Size.  Should I go down for a similar fit?  The Dragons were snug and hugged my foot.

X C · · Yucca Valley · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 72

Respecting shops, when you're around Southern California next they carry a couple models at Nomad Ventures out here, but just the Mocc and Blanco ones. The gym Flowstone in Redlands nearby carries a bunch of the more aggressive models though.

Sir Loin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

I’ve had the up mocs for a while now and i love ‘em. I downsized them to be uncomfortably tight in store, (bought them at sage to summit in bishop) but now they fit like a snug glove. I can keep them on for an hour or more, but theyre tight enough so the heel doesnt pop out on heel hooks.
Compared to some 5.10 mocs i had i think the upmocs seem like much better quality. I’ve scoped the up pinks in person and they’re very sexy, and seem higher quality than 5.10 pinks. 
  i am glad the up mocs dont stain my feet red. They stain your feet a strange yellow for a week or so, but it’s hardly noticeable compared to the red from the 5.10s. 

 The up rubber is sticky as hell, and i wish i could get some more. They’ve been resoled once with xs grip rubber, which is pretty damn sticky itself, and they’ll need another soon. Got ‘em resoled at the rubber room, and they didnt stretch them at all. Still fit like a glove. 
Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

Thank you for responding

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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