When do you retire a belay carabiner?

Khoi wrote:

Why did you bump a 10+ year old thread?

We are all in "lock down"  and I assume everybody is a s bored as I am....I may go looking for the number to R&R.

Remember, gates IN, unless you are a n00b. 

Nate Mech wrote: Since we're resurrecting the dead, might as well join in.

Anyone use a steel biner for their belay? Obviously not ideal on multi pitch, but fine for cragging, and much greater lifespan. Probably better for your rope too, though marginal

For the gym and cragging I use this guy.

Khoi wrote:

Why did you bump a 10+ year old thread?

*Somebody asks a question that has already been discussed ad nauseam in the forums*

'USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION!!" - MP Crowds

*Somebody has a question but decides to search the forums before asking*

'WHY ARE YOU REVIVING DEAD THREADS???' - MP crowd

I'm just joking around, btw.

Vic Davalos wrote:

*Somebody asks a question that's already been discussed ad nauseam in the forums*

'USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION!!" - rockclimbing.com crew

*Somebody has a question, but decides to search the forums before asking*

'WHY ARE YOU REVIVING DEAD THREADS???' - MP crowd

I'm just joking around, btw.  

Fixed that for you.

It was one of my top complaints of that place!

Ha! Fair enough

kate smith wrote: Retire a climbing rope immediately if it has been involved in a huge fall with extreme loads or if it shows damage, such as cuts, flat spots, stiffness or lots of fuzziness.
Even a rope that shows no visible signs of damage eventually needs to be retired. Here are some approximate guidelines:

1. After a fall with extreme loads or other damage: immediately
2. Frequent use (weekly): 1 year or sooner
3. Regular use (few times per month): 1–3 years
4. Occasional use (once per month): 4–5 years
5. Rare use (1–2 times per year): 7 years
6. Never used: 10 years

Dear Kate Who Opened Her Account Today,

The subject of this thread is not "when to retire a rope."

Bot?

FrankPS wrote:

Dear Kate Who Opened Her Account Today,

The subject of this thread is not "when to retire a rope."

Bot?

That’s a good point, cause nobody answers off topic around here. ;)

Welcome, Kate, to the show that never ends.

Cindy wrote:

Welcome, Kate, to the show that never ends.

Unless we’re lucky

When you ask the question.

Cause I was curious on other people's takes on it. Idk, haha maybe I'm just Chaotic neutral.

I've mentioned it before, but since I switch my belay carabiner to a Metolius stainless steel one, I haven't seen any appreciable wear. Going on four years now.

Cindy wrote:

That’s a good point, cause nobody answers off topic around here. ;)

Welcome, Kate, to the show that never ends.

Oh come on! The thread title is about retiring a biner. Kate posts an answer about retiring ropes. It's like asking what is your favorite climbing snack and Kate answers "Purple!"
That's not "off topic". That's "I'll just totally ignore the topic."

Marc801 C wrote: Oh come on! The thread title is about retiring a biner. Kate posts an answer about retiring ropes. It's like asking what is your favorite climbing snack and Kate answers "Purple!"
That's not "off topic". That's "I'll just totally ignore the topic."

I LIKE CHOCOLATE MILK!!!

Buck Rio wrote:

I LIKE CHOCOLATE MILK!!!

Kittens!~!!

Marc801 C wrote: Oh come on! The thread title is about retiring a biner. Kate posts an answer about retiring ropes. It's like asking what is your favorite climbing snack and Kate answers "Purple!"
That's not "off topic". That's "I'll just totally ignore the topic."

Yes, I think she‘s trying to purposefully blow the rhythm so this thread doesn’t fit the meta thread.  And purple is a great answer.  

Interesting note, a quick search show Kate nor any of ”her” 4 iterations don’t seem to like their responses preserved so perhaps best to ignore.  My welcome was a vain effort to increase the estrogen count.  Oh well.

belay biners should be retired when they're old enough to start receiving Social Security benefits. this, btw, is how I finance my freewheeling climbing lifestyle

Buck Rio wrote:

We are all in "lock down"  and I assume everybody is a s bored as I am....I may go looking for the number to R&R.

Remember, gates IN, unless you are a n00b. 

Gates out you mongol

Here’s an example of one I ‘retired’ recently (still use it for non-climbing purposes). The photo may not do it justice, but when I can feel the grooves from the rope by running my fingers over it, it’s time. This is about 5 years as a dedicated belay/rap carabiner.

I retire mine as soon as I can start to see the microfractures

This carabiner is beyond its life.  The cross section would show that more than 1/2 the metal is gone and sharp edges have formed.  Loaded rope on those sharp edges is bad news.  Worn fixed draws are DANGER.

​https://www.tabvar.org/sites/default/files/Fixed%20Quick%20Draws.pdf

​https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/10/mario_luginbuhl_dead_in_tragic_accident-67521​​​

YGD