$3 copies of new Climbing Zine

New special starting today: $40 zine-book bundle, plus we are still offering $2 zines.

Bump for this. New specials for this week: $15 subs / books starting at $8 / and zine-book bundle w/ American Climber and The Desert

As a San Diegan climber,

I was serendipitously delighted to see the Ray Olson article in issue XVI of the zine.

History has a funny way of repeating itself,

and Ray's forays into the deep brush of Deerhorn valley mirrored my own!

A friend and I independently stumbled upon the sweet crack on the cover of his guidebook before seeing it in the zine!

jt newgard wrote: As a San Diegan climber,

I was serendipitously delighted to see the Ray Olson article in issue XVI of the zine.

History has a funny way of repeating itself,

and Ray's forays into the deep brush of Deerhorn valley mirrored my own!

A friend and I independently stumbled upon the sweet crack on the cover of his guidebook before seeing it in the zine!

That's awesome JT. We recently got a letter from an old climbing partner of Ray's that we are publishing in Volume 18. 

Photo of Ray Olson by Greg Epperson. Article is in Vol 16

Cool I will look for it !

jt newgard wrote: Cool I will look for it !

Great. Here's the text here. Just got word from the printer they are binding that issue right now. 

To Roy McClenahan by way of The Climbing Zine,

Glancing through the pages of Volume 16 of The Climbing Zine in my local climbing gym in Missoula, Montana—a setting that feels a galaxy apart from the rugged hill country of east San Diego County where I grew up—I was stopped in my tracks when the Greg Epperson photo of Ray Olson leapt out of the pages at me. Imagine then my further shock when I saw my own name appear in the text.
I grew up in Lyons Valley, about fifteen minutes from Deerhorn Valley. Around 1980, my climbing partner, Craig, suggested we explore the boulders at Deerhorn. Imagining the undiscovered world of climbs we were about to reach, we bushwhacked straight up the steep slope toward them, only to be amazed when we came upon a network of neatly pruned trails leading from one rock to another. It wasn’t long before a solitary hiker appeared, cruising down the ridgetop. “So,” he said, “I see you’ve found Deerhorn.” He carried a nylon sack, the size of a Hefty lawn-and-garden trash bag, on the outside of which he’d sewn the words This Place is a Mess. That, of course, was Ray Olson, and that sack would often accompany him as he collected trash and shooters’ debris from the surrounding hillside.

My friendship with Ray started that day and would last through much of the ’80s. Soon I had a FROG swami and leg loops, pack, and several of the jumbo-size crack-climber specialty chalk bags, including a skull and crossbones one. Ray and I named it the “soloists chalk bag.” It’s likely I was wearing it on a day at Idyllwild when I did what remains the longest free solo of my climbing career, a four-pitch moderate on Tahquitz. I was there with Ray, and he suggested the climb. I can still remember how confident and relaxed I was, palming an arching undercling, feet smearing on low-angle slab, feeling as bold and totally badass as Ray, who casually led the way.

Ray was only two years older than me, but he seemed a generation more wise and worldly. I once told him of my plan to give up all junk food, alcohol, and whatever other evils I could think of that must be harming my climbing. Ray considered this announcement, then said, “I don’t know about that, Ken. Everyone needs at least one vice.” I’ve kept those words close to heart ever since.
By 1990, I’d moved from climbing to sailboat racing. I raced with a regular crew, known particularly for our multiple vices, and we needed a team shirt. I’d seen a graphic Bruce Pottenger of Kinnaloa produced, the one-and-only “This ain’t no wienie roast.” Bruce agreed to print us shirts for our crew, with the graphic on the back and our boat name on the front. The image in the graphic depicts Ray Charles with spirals in his glasses. The artwork is by Ray Olson. I still have that shirt (see attached). It’s threadbare and unwearable, but like my memories of Ray, I’ll hang on to it to the end.
Your article on Ray is well written, sincere, and engaging. It captures the personality and essence of one of the more memorable individuals to have touched my life. I thoroughly enjoyed reading it and am honored to have been included.

Best regards,
Ken Turley

Bump for this. Two days left for these sales:

$2 zines / $15 one year subs / $25 zine bundle / $40 zine-book bundle 

Bump: this week we've got $2 zines / $25 two year subs / $10 "dirtbag state of mind" shirts / $30 zine bundles 12-17

Here's a link to our site if you're wondering WTF the zine is all about: www.climbingzine.com 

Got my hoodie today Luke - it is great! New favorite. Thanks!!

3 Zines and The Desert en route. Hang in there Luke!

ErikaNW wrote: Got my hoodie today Luke - it is great! New favorite. Thanks!!

Thank you Erika! That means a lot!

James Frost wrote: 3 Zines and The Desert en route. Hang in there Luke.

Much appreciated James! We'll get those out tomorrow! 

Bump for our specials list:

$2 zines (15-17) $25 two year sub. / $30 zine bundle / $50 zine-book bundle / $10 dirtbag shirt / $8 American Climber

Bump for this week's specials: $2 zines / $10 shirts / $25 two year subs. / $30 bundles of issues 12-17

Here's a link to our site to see what our stories are all about: www.climbingzine.com 

And we've also got a new podcast, called Dirtbag State of Mind